Bowie69

I bet you, if you sent some beer tokens to a forum member, they would send you out a pair of Strombergs they have lying around... if you end up having to go that way.....

Yep, faster, and more angle on the head to stop it filling with much so fast!

Drive the truck in Oz and it will go the right way....

Years ago, a silly thing like that stopped me putting vacuum advance on a lightweight.... for a very long time.... Cheap, pattern parts seem to have an overly long spring, which is not fitted *just* right, will touch something it shouldn't.... Nowadays I love the plug'n'play nature of electronic ignition

I don't think anything is wrong tbh, sucking through the oil filler is normaly for many engine that vent the crankcase back into the inlet. By removing the cap, you are allowing a LOT more air into the crankcase, and therefore sucked in through the crankcase breather and stuffed into the carbs/inlet. Basically you are probably weakening the mixture by taking it off, which will make it run rough. The crankcase on a V8 is pretty much sealed except for the filter on the rear left rocker cover (assuming you have one, not 100% on the older V8s), by opening it you are letting it breathe very freeling, and upsetting the designed balance. That's my take on it anyhow

The manual for it is all over the web, here for starters: http://www.faireyoverdrive.com/guide/page1.htm You should be able to pick out what is and isn't there from that. The hole in the transmission tunnel that is required needs to be cut out yourself, if I recall correctly, bit of measuring and a timber hole saw did it fine on mine, about 2-2.5" diameter. Remember, don't use it in first and second gear, you'll break it HTH, Bowie.

You've not over tightened it have you? Tensioners and water pumps can still go quiet with just a splash of water on them, and a tight belt can make a marginal bearing very noisy...

Impressive! Well done!

I was wondering what sort of 'Petal' you are running Mouse on tbh, pure red rose buds, or the watered down Pansies?

Make sure the points spring isn't shorting on the dizzy body....

Ye I know But if you get stuck, lemme know

Range Rover jack handles work VERY well for the M16.... Sorry about the M12 You're more than welcome to have it back, not had a chance to start the prep work for the rear bumper yet

Looking from the back of the switch, pimple upwards, the right hand terminal is #3... (refer to my previous post for the other pins) I had to grovel around under my Audi to find this out, so I hope you are grateful

Pin 1: High speed switch Pin 2: Low speed switch Pin 3: +12V That's from an Audi workshop manual, which I am pretty sure uses this switch... (it cross-refers OK). It does use a thumping great relay as well, I guess you are? Finding out how the switch works with a multimeter when all terminals are open circuit would be fun Hope that helps anyways Fridge...

Very nice! That reminds me of building traction control for a friends Mini when I was at college..... the crazy things we do

Yep, ditto, made me do a double post, and I *never* do a double post But thanks for the info, nice to be back

Ah good news Have to say though, the IMPCO stuff seems WAAAAY more complex than most other systems!

Could be interesting when Windows does a forced reboot after an update, and the whole truck shuts down!

TBH, get a genuine one, a lot of the aftermarket ones fail very quickly.

Look simple enough TBH, an idle mixture screw, a fast running screw, and a power valve...... Only 3 settings and they all depend on eachother! What I would do, is getting it running as well as you can, then to get it *right* take it to an LPG specialist, they will have it set up in 10 minutes, and probably just charge you a box of jaffa cakes to boot, mush less hassle than trying to work out how to set it all up without a CO meter handy

To be honest, if those figures were done cold, I don't think there is an issue at all..... Hot, they would indicate a worn engine, but not a headgasket leak.

Woops, double post, forum timed out :s

Hey Charles, not your fault at all! and it wasn't a dig I kind of assumed I would need to move things about, just by looking at the holes in the bumper.... and yes I think i can remedy the situation without too much difficulty .... the TDS is more central than the XD9000, but seems to still be off centre by 4mm, but I suppose a central fairlead will be close enough.... bottom line is they need moving across by 42 mm, a project for when my mig-trigger finger has healed... and when I have sorted out my other car... Another thing for people considering a Goodwinch, I downloaded the spec sheet for the TDS 9.5/12.0, the winch is 612mm wide, my winch tray is 615mm opening that's with the winch tray made up of 4mm plates inside the chassis rail, anything thicker and you will struggle to get it in! In comparison the Britpart DB8000 seems to be 564mm overall, much much more clearance! Hope that helps a bit! P.s. Bish - You got that 200TDi auto in the 90 yet?

I measured up for a Goodwinch TDS 9.5 against the original holes that are in my southdown front bumper (from Bishbosh!), they do not match at all, the whole winch needs moving left as you look at the vehicle, and are wider apart as well. Pretty sure Bish had an X9 in there, although I migth be wrong..... But then it is only a couple of holes to re-drill and weld up the old ones if you are worried about weakening it.