Bowie69

To get the longer springs in.... jack up under the chassis, and pop em in -no need for compressors or anything -you need to jack BOTH sides at once, and then allow it to droop right down, the limiting factor will be the brake lines on the diff most likely.... If there is still not enough droop get the bottle jack out and wedge it between the axle and the chassis, then pump! You should be able to EASILY get the clearance to pop them in. The rears should be a lot easier than the fronts tbh -what spacers did you go with in the end? *edit* I'd assumed you had released the shock

Couple of tweaks to the 90, slot the engine/transmission in and tie up the new axles... should be sorted by next bank holiday

If you do get it, there's some spray on gunky stuff you can use to stop the vibes, it also acts as a sound proofing. Give it a go and hope it's OK of course

RAVE says ATF Dexron IID ATF fluid, I'd go with that! Looking through my Haynes I can't see the lubricat type specified anywhere, well not specifically the Borg Warner anyhow...

Nice job, looks very tidy! Was wondering though, are you likely to get drumming without the ribs in it? Being 2mm thick there is some strength, just not sure how much

No probs, it fitted in well with my weekend, so alls good Oh and too much sugar makes me sleepy, that's my excuse and I am sticking with it!

If you think you've flooded it that badly, just leave the plugs out overnight and the petrol should evaporate... replace the plugs and off you go.... fingers crossed I've had this a few times, particularily when priming the V8 oil pump, by disconnecting the coil lead -BAD idea..... it still chucks fuel in and *IF* you get it to start, it gives you clouds of lovely black smoke to look at -not good!

http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.org/ has the proper lightweigth floor panels (which ARE different to standard). Unfortunately 2a vent panels in good nick are like gold dust, even series III to be honest. I'd look at trying to get it repaired if you can, i know someone on Ebay(or was it on here?) was selling channel bent to the right shape for the lower edge of the panel, which makes things a LOT easier! Good luck!

HAHAHA.... erm.... YES! He works at Gerber You could say it is a 'striking' vehicle, yeah? I know it's not LR, but I'll post a few pics when it's done, in 'members vehicles', just for a giggle

Well I offered when you got the new toy, it still stands... just WHEN I am not sure about yet, I have an engine conversion to finish with a mate (yes the one with a Rocsta before you laugh.... but it should go better with a 2.0 DOHC 16V engine in it ) I'll drop you a PM when I know more, probably after this evening! Oh, and I still have my swivels/CVs to do... assuming they arrive....

It's used by joinery firms for spraying windows/doors etc, it works WELL.... but I suspect the charge used is slightly higher than that produced by the hammerite toy.... but you never know It did look a bit slow, yes 4 times faster than a brush, just maybe not me with a brush

You shouldn't need them on the front, the higher poundage and 1" increase inlength should more than make up for a 2" lift.

Erm.... that wouldn't make any difference... you still have a finite amount of heat to get out of the engine bay, how fast you get it out the engine makes no difference what so ever. You still need air going through your radiator and out somewhere else.

The HD rears will be a higher poundage spring, and therefore, as you say, sag less. One way to find out Did you measure the wheelarch to ground distance before you started? *edit* in fact, if you look here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?s=&s...st&p=252746 you can see the difference. Front standard duty : 133lb/in Rear standard duty : 150lb/in Rear heavy duty : 170lb/in HTH

This is the whole reason for multigrade oils..... When cold, a multigrade oil acts like it is the lower of the two figures, ie the 20 in 20w50, and 50 when it is hot, the higher number being the thicker oil. As the oil heats up the some of the polymer molecules (that are added to make an oil multigrade) expand making the oil act as if is was thicker when hotter, although as it is warmer, it appears thinner. the CHARACTERISTICS of the warm oil is of a 50 weight oil, where as the the cold oil is like a 20 weight. So.... you get thin a characteristic oil in the morning when cold to allow easier starting, and a thicker oil when hot to maintain oil pressure. It removes the need to run 30w oil in winter and then change to 50w oil in summer when things are a lot warmer. You can read a bit more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_oil#Multi-grade HTH,

Surely the 'land owner' is the local council, that are responsible for the upkeep of these lanes....

Good way to go, well done! shame he had to be here at all really, maybe we should get people to write an application form before their account is activated, that way you can ban all the people using txt spk on a forum post and swear words as every second syllable

Well done bish, looks good -very much better than I had imagined you would have started a new project with! Good luck with it, andif you need a spare pair of hands, just let me know!

Or go here: http://www.slysoft.com/en/virtual-clonedrive.html Download, install, double click the 'ISO' file you have, and it will mount it in a virtual CD drive, and run from there -it is significantly faster than from a CD as well Best thing... it is free.

Mole Valley farmers sell something very similar....

Sorry to hear that Bish.... really bad news... the Bishtail has been one of the vehicles I have seen a lot in that I would want to steal adapt for my own use, very sad.

Gwyn Lewis will bend standard ones for you, to suit your vehicle, for around £45+VAT (Last time I spoke to him that is). Price is based on exchange, so no sending him accident damaged ones and expect to get away with it!

Never seen them..... I expect you could get an Ali one made up, but expect it to be a LOT of money! Standard steel ones should last 25+ years tbh (both mine have) sof for what... £100ish you can get a new one.... I wouldn't bother with stainless unless there was some specific reason to go down that route.

Yep, as long as you get a voltage, then no voltage when it is closed, it seems to be working OK. 11V is low.... you should be getting 12+ to it really -try jump starting it to check, as above Sometimes when a starter is on it's way out, it will start to just run slowly -this is because the bearing has collapsed to the point where the rotor is starting to hit the stator winding -this will eventually short out and leave you with effectively only half a starter.... so not DEFINATELY the battery, but first, and easiest thing to. check.

Here's a lovely picture of the distributor: http://www.britishcarpartsco.com/images/P8050010.JPG You can clearly see the points and condenser -if you change the points, change the condenser at the same time. Obvious things.... no not really... you need to look at each section in turn to make sure it is working. Do a search on here and I am sure you will find it pretty easily. The starter... are you SURE the battery is OK? Have you tried jumping it from another car? If that doesn't work then it sounds like it is dead -they aren't TOO expensive to replace fortunately.