teslo

When i was dismantling my engine i used impact gun and good quality socket. It took no-time.

Hello guys, currently i have in my RRC megasquirted standard 3.9 with v-belt front end. Also i have second engine which is 4.6 GEMS with serp front end. 4.6 is project for winter nights and is currently dimantled to pieces and will take quite a lot of time to put it together. The question is. Is it possible to use somehow serp front end to v-belt engine? Thanks

thank you guys

What pipes and what inner diameter you used for rear water radiator? We are going to move radiator for 300tdi to the rear. The plan is to use V8 radiator with twin electric fans. thanks

To fit 35" tyres truly require quite a bit of trimming. I have 2" body lift, cutted arches and unknown lift on springs (guessing about 3"). With using quite a big offset wheels this setup is just about OK. In upcoming time i am going to get rid of bodylift and completely redesign wheel arches. I've already destroy them when fitting Equipe4x4 suspension kit, so it will not be a big deal when i made completely new one.

just came back from friends workshop where we fill up those shocks to approx 150psi. They become very firm - will see how they will perform with this settings. I was not able to compress them with my weight up to internal bump stops. (just for note - they were pressurized to approx 60psi).

I've tried to contact 3 or 4 companies but unfortunately they are not answering... EDIT: just received answer from extreme4x4. They stoped selling them 18 moths ago and advised me LRS offroad. Unfortunately they are one of companies what i tried to contact without success.

If i wasn't thinking of using my RRC as pure offroad car (long travel suspension) i will still be using EAS. It is perfect. I was rebuilding EAS system (block and compressor) on my P38 (which is literally the same as Classic) and it was quite easy.

If you could it will be great. thanks

Hello, i am searching for some service manual/instructions or parts diagram for Equipe4x4 art.003 and art.004 shocks - older desing (same as was used by scorpion racing extreme kit - without remote reservoir). I want to know to what pressure they should be inflated as one of the shocks started to leak and i want to check the pressure in it. many thanks

It is good idea, but regularly check shock brackets for cracks etc...i have snapped it twice.

I think that buying complete second hand system to have at least chance for success (if you will be able to find one in good condition) It is a great thought but not sure if cost effective. It is very complicated system. Yes there are some bracket on the chassis for EAS box and pressure tank, but those are easily doable. Sensors require brackets on radius and trailing arms. ECU with bunch of cables is located under RHfront seat.

Oh...yes... thanks

yes, I have read info on ashcroft site. there is: -large converter can only be used with the stage 2 as it will only fit the 4HP24 front end. -To fit the large converter you will need the 4.6 boss and flexplate assy to match the bigger converter the question is, what parts contain 4HP24 front end and is it possible to fit it to 4HP22?

Hello, please is it possible to fit large torque converter to 4HP22? If yes, what needs to be changed? I am planning to fit 4.6 engine into my RRC currently with 3.9 and standard auto box and was thinking of changing TC for bigger one while i am in. Thanks

Just a thought...isn't woodruff key in same position as on v-belt crank and serp one? So if i just "copy" degree marks from v-belt crank pulley to serp one, will it be OK? I am going to switch engines from 3.9 pre-serp to 4.6 serp. Trigger wheel on my current 3.9 crank pulley is in almost ideal position (1-2 degrees out) so i planned to use it as a temlate to 4.6 crank pulley...thanks

I was in contact with guy who wants to sell his John eales 4.6 engine, but unfortunately my funds was against me...if you wish send me your contact and i will pass it to him.

There should be no issue just connecting charger to battery and start charging...i've never disconnected battery when charging in garage.

If you don't want to save that 3 bolt flange, just cut it with angle grinder and then just unscrew pinion nut. Did it every time when changing donut type propshaft for one with UJ on both ends... be careful not to cut pinion or nut, but they are quite away so no big stress

that looks really good...

i reused original insulation

i have used plastic zip ties (i don't know correct word). Similar to ones used for cables in your RRC. In engine comparment i've used heat insulation to protect hoses from exhaust.

I have replaced all fuel pipes with fuel hose to overcome rust issue. I've reused original connections and crimped them back to new hoses. Next step will be to replace brake lines.

i am using same technology

I used to have Britpart twin cylinder compressor. It was pumping up tyres (35") with no problem. I've just change power cables for bigger ones as the original ones were getting hot when working hard for longer time. Now i have Warn VTC and it is big difference. Deflating with manometer takes more time than inflating. But it is quite expensive. I bought it second hand so it was not that bad. I gave my old Britpart compressor to a friend and is still working in his car and still in great shape. So in terms of value for money Britpart wins in this situation.