Sabre

No update on this ?

Nope, first thing I checked. And rear propshaft not connected

Both reconned, and filled with oil

Jip, both Gbox and Tx were reconned

Not funny at all, I need all the ideas that I can get. I am not sure where the resistance is coming from. G/box and Tx are in neutral, (both newly reconditioned) so that eliminates resistance from that area. I'm going to try the ATF; that is the easiest starting point. If there is no improvement, I will need to look further

Already bolted to gearbox...... I'm pretty sure it went clean into the bell housing

Whilst rebuilding, I continuously turned the engine. After fitting main bearings and after fitting pistons and con rods. All components were well oiled before installation. I will definitely try the ATF advice. Thanks

I will try that, sounds like a good idea. Appreciated

Sourcing one would be rather difficult, but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the idea

I overhauled my D1 300 Tdi engine during covid, then needed a few odds and ends that I could not get. The engine then stood for about 2 years. I have now found that the engine is very difficult to turn over when I try to turn it on the crank pulley bolt. I have already filled the engine with oil, and want to turn over the engine to get oil through the bearings, and onto cylinder walls. Can I give a squirt or two of oil through the injector or glow plug holes ? (These are not fitted yet, which makes the difficult turning even more of a mystery). And, how does the oil pump prime ? Would it simply suck up the oil from the sump ? Would appreciate your advice

Looks the same as 300TDi

Good idea, thanks 👍

Great ! Thanks. Always good to read the basics again, and realise what an excellent invention bearings were/are

Interesting topic. I think the standard 300Tdi Disco's air filter element is too small for dusty conditions. Having travelled a few times behind other vehicles on dirt roads, I got into the habit of shaking clean the air filter element every night. And I was always surprised at the amount of dust in the filter element. When I re-bored the engine at 396k km, I could just get a clean bore at 2nd oversize The obvious solution would be to fit a Donaldson, as per Defender, but space is a problem. Would a snorkel alleviate the problem ? When we travel on dirt roads, the dust go much higher than the roof of the vehicle, hence my doubt about the effectiveness of a snorkel to reduce the dust burden on a filter element. I would appreciate the informed wisdom of this forum 😉

A clever person once said "I am still to meet the man that has given me as much trouble as myself" Boy oh boy, do I qualify!!!

Wow, that is very sad news 😢 He has contributed a wealth of information on these pages.

I forgot about this thread😪 A year after this was discussed here, I lost the oil pump on my Disco 300 Tdi. Worn away the location tabs on the rotor, and chowed the crankshaft. I have rebuilt the engine but has not started it yet (Yip happened two years ago, and many stoppages has delayed my rebuilt) I still think the 300 Tdi oil pump is not a clever design Incidently, I haven't seen posts from Boydie for quite some time now, anyone knows what happened to him ?

Thanks John. I don't think I will need MTF again in my lifetime; with the Covid lockdown, and very limited access to neighbouring countries, my Disco travels very little.

Seems like a global problem ? Same issue in South Africa. I have had my D1 now for 20 years, and every time that I need MTF, it is a battle. Strangest case was a garage/workshop that had a 210 liter container of MTF. Sealed. The arrangement with the Texaco company (Caltex in SA) was that the business does not pay for the oil untill the seal is broken. And the owner, understandably, was not prepared to break the seal for 3 liters of oil. I needed MTF recently, and it took me half a day phoning around, then waited a week for delivery

Thanks for the feed back, appreciated

Should I apply a thin smear of high melting point grease on the splines of the spigot shaft before installing the engine ? I have been advised not to, but I cannot imagine those splines taking the drive from the clutch plate bone dry

If it's a Tdi, the metal pipes can chaff through in the brackets that hold the pipes in place. I fitted two pieces of rubber pipe around the metal pipes (1 inch each) and then fastened the pipes to the bracket with a few zip-ties

If they're not in your way, keep them. Someone, somewhere will need, and appreciate, them when the need arises

Western, I inspected each bolt with a magnifying glass, just now, and they still look brand new. I have no doubt that they can be re-used. But, thanks for the offer 👍

Rollers are perfect, no marks, pit marks, nothing. I did buy new brass slides though.