florin

Hi Neil, Thank you for taking the trouble to do the screen shots. It's a big help. At least I know I was on the right track about the Brake Switch 2. I should probably tell the guys back at Nanocom to correct the documentation. Just a very small comment on your last screen shot: I think on that screen the Cruise Control: Enabled is not dependent on the 12V at pin 15 but rather it's a feature of the ECU (if you have CC activated or not in the software). The screen that will change when the 12V is applied at pin 15 is the first one: Cruise Control: ON. I did have an initial setup without the LED. I will continue to test and if I become any wiser I will post back here the findings. Again, thank you for the help!

Hi Neil, It would be a huge help if you could confirm your Nanocom settings! Thank you! Here is the actual setup I did: I was quite confident about the whirring because the Nanocom did display my actions (and thus confirming them). For instance: when I turn on the CC Master switch (on my diagram) the Nanocom displays Cruise control: ON. When I press the buttons on the Window winder switch, again, the Nanocom does display the Set or Resume: ON However, I will listen to people that actually made it work! So I will go and check all the cables again. Again, thank you for the help! /Florin

Hi Neil, Thank you for the diagram. That is exactly the one I used (or a very close version). And yes, the 10 and 15 are continuously connected to +12V. I am sure about this as Nancom does display Cruise Control: ON when I switch the OnOff button (on your diagram) and stays ON until I switch it off (basically for the entire test drive). Today I saved lived data from Nanocom (speed vs rev) and did the math with the help of Ashcroft calculator: At 73 KPH I am doing 2154 revs in 4th (with my 1.21 TB). From Ashcroft calculator I should be doing 2724 in 4th or 2126 in 5th (if I would still have a 1.41 TB). So my 2154 revs in 4th are 98.7% close to theoretical 2126 in 5th which I would guess it's good enough. So not sure the problem is here. (If anyone needs more details about that calculation let me know and I will be happy to give more details) Well, back to digging. Not yet ready to give up. /Florin

Just checked the clutch witch and it seems OK. Nanocom reports OFF all the time even if I drive on a bumpy road. To avoid confusion on my original post: I now believe the pin 10 needs the 12V (as instructed by all internet posts). I think Nanocom reports the state of the pedal rather than the state of the electrical connection. In other words: when Nanocom displays Brake Switch 2: ON, it means the pedal is depressed. This is contrary to what the Nanocom manual says (which is what confuses me): From the manual: "Brake switch 2: This displays the state of the footbrake pedal brake switch 2 as seen by the TD5 ECU. This switch is only fitted to vehicles equipped with cruise control. Failure of this switch would disable cruise control. It should show OFF with the Brake pedal depressed and ON when the Brake pedal is released." /Florin

Hi Neil, Yes, I use a "permanent on/off" switch from position II of ignition for 10 and 15 and a momentary (window rocker switch) for 11 and 17. I will check the clutch switch. Thank you. /Florin

Hi all, I hope someone can help, I have a Defender TD5 from 1999. The ECU Part number is NNN500020 (I bought it like this, I suspect it was done by the garage under warranty) I wired the cruise control switches (pins 10, 11, 15 and 17) - it's not working. From Nancom: Info: ECU Part Number: NNN500020 Cruise Lamp: DISABLED Cruise Control: ENABLED Inputs: Brake Switch 1: OFF Brake Switch 2: ON -> OFF if I apply 12V to pin 10 together with pin 15 Clutch Switch: OFF Cruise Control: ON - when I apply 12V to pin 10 and 15 Cruise Resume: OFF -> ON if I apply 12V Set Accelerate: OFF -> ON if I apply 12V Instruments: The Engine speed displays OK The Road speed displays OK I do have a 1.21 transfer box but it does not work in any gears (I would like to confirm it's working on the 4th before installing a "speed healer" device) I tried to remove the pin 10 so the Brake Switch 2 stays ON and still would not engage. (I did that because second brake switch is a normal ON (closed) circuit according to Nanocom) To try to make it work I accelerate in 4th past 40 KPH and apply 12V to pin 11 (SET). The Set Accelerate (in Nanocom) does turn ON but then goes back to OFF when I release the button and the car slows down. I tried to keep the switch pressed longer... no difference. I tried the same with Reset and nothing. Is there anything else I should check? Are there any other conditions that must be met before the CC would work? Thank you for any help I can get. /Florin

@CwazyWabbit Thank you! In that case it's perfect for our purpose here.

@Anderzander, Did you ever install the new transfer box and get the CC to work with the Nanocom setting? As far as I can read on other posts the setting in the Nanocom only changes the Nanocom displayed speed, it does not change the ECU reading. (I guess it's a simple formula on the Nanocom applied to the reading from the ECU when it shows it on the screen - basically a conversion) @V8 Freak, Reading your comments I would have a question: are there two wires from the Transfer box sender? One that goes to the ECU and another one that goes to the Speedometer? I am asking because if there is only one and the Speedometer feeds from the ECU then you will affect both when changing the ECU. This will result in lower than reality speed value indicated on the Speedometer and a possible MOT failure. Thank you!

I finally had time to do all the tests I wanted. Conclusion: Injector number 3 is stuck. The Nanocom can "ping" one injector at a time when the key is on position II. Pinging all other injectors (1,2,4 and 5) results in a very audible click. When pinging 3 nothing happens. I tested (continuity) the loom from engine to ECU and the injector harness. All good. I measured the resistance on injector -> harness -> loom. All good. Final test: I connected the harness plug for injector 3 into injector number 2. Pinged 3 and the click was there. So now I know that the signal is sent all the way and the injector's coil has the correct resistance (safe to assume it's not fried). As such, the only conclusion is that the injector is stuck. (probably close as I don't have any smoke) So I am now after a replacement injector. While I have the rail off I will also change all seals and washers. Does anyone has any advice for an injector replacement? Should I get a reconditioned one (exchange)? Should I go for a brand new one? Thank you.

Macpaul: thank you for your suggestions. I will probably double check the earth. Last time I measured (battery - chassis) i did get 6 ohms but thought that was normal. I had the tank out 4 months ago and I did clean it. Will also double check the relay and post back. I now received the Nanocom and had a chance to read the fault codes. I have only one that looks suspicious: (28,3) INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT, (LOGGED). (it is only for that injector... not all of them) Also when I go to the cylinder balance values I get (on average) CYL 1: -3.7 CYL 2: -4.7 CYL 3: 15.6 CYL 4: -3.5 CYL 5: -4.5 So I think I do have a problem with either the injector 3 or cylinder 3. I did a search on that exact text ("INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE SHORT") but only found it coupled with all injectors, not only one (the usual "oil in the ECU" issue). Any advice on this one? Should I start by changing the harness? Thank you.

Hi Tanuki, Thank you for the advice. No I didn't... because I did not have a device to do that. I did connect a "normal" OBD reader but got nothing (would not connect). That is why I ordered the spectacularly expensive Nanocom. Will do as you advise and see what comes up. Again, thank you.

Defender 90, TD5 1999. My Defender started running a bit rough a few weeks ago. It also shakes (shakes not vibrates) in par with the sound. I did a fair bit of research and I thought of asking here as someone might have a bright idea. Here is a very short YouTube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_ssG1e9eJY) with the sound under idle and acceleration. I am not sure if the idle is an issue or not, but I think the acceleration is. When decelerating it runs very smooth and even. I am also suspecting loss of power when under load (like going uphill). I think it used to be better. This is what I did so far: - I have a new fuel pump and filter (changed them 200 km before this issue appeared) the fuel pump sounds very normal and the engine starts perfectly. - I changed the fuel pressure regulator (I changed it after the issue but I know it was leaking before) - I Installed an ERG replacement kit (no change) - I checked the turbo modulator (dismantle, clean, grease, install); seems to move OK (needs some force but it does move from end to end), it does move under acceleration - I checked the turbo; the blades are spinning ok, there is no filing, it does spin faster under acceleration. - I cleaned the MAF (there is no change on idle when I disconnect the MAF connector); next step here would be to buy a new MAF - I checked the ECU wiring loom connector and there is no oil in the ECU (there is a small amount on the bottom of the box - been there for a long while and does not seem to get bigger) - I checked and cleaned the wiring loom connector to the injector harness (did not open the rocker cover) - I did change the gearbox, transfer box, clutch and dual mass flywheel before the issue appeared, can the CPS be half broken (runs but not 100%)? I ordered a Nanocom Evolution (should arrive in a week) so I will try and read codes and all the data I can from that one. In case I don't get anything meaningful from the Nanocom, is there something else I can test/do? I know I need to double check the injectors and the injector harness but I am waiting for the Nanocom to tell me if that is the issue (and I will probably measure the resistance at ECU for each injector). Am I missing anything? Thank you!

Thank you for the answers. @dave88sw: Yes, it's cranking over with no sign of firing whatsoever. When I cleaned the bellhousing I did take the sensor off cleaned it, and put it back in quite carefully. Again, thank you for the suggestions.

Hi, Just finished major work on my TD5 and it won't start. Here are the items I changed that might have an impact: - transfer box - gear box - Dual mass fly wheel - Clutch - Fuel pump - Fuel filter (on the water sensor at the bottom of the filter the brown wire seem to be cut by previous owner so I fixed that) - The battery was removed (with the 15 sec procedure) for about 3 months but the immobilizer seems to work correctly (lock = red blinking light on the dashboard + 3 warning lights and unlock = no red light + no alarm + warning light continuous for a second or two) I did not prime the fuel filter. I did do the purge 3 times (I can hear no air being squirted any more). As per items above I did remove a lot of wires but I did check and all seem to be connected OK. Is there a procedure I can use to eliminate possible faults? Should I repeat the purge procedure a few more times? Can it be the flywheel sensor not being connected properly or not reading well the new dual mass flywheel? Would that prevent firing up? Is it worth connecting a ODB2 reader and trying to get fault codes? (All was good before I started the work) Thank you for any advice you might have.

Hi all, I have 99 TD5 LHD 90 and I need to get replacements for gearbox, transfer box, rear diff and steering box. I took pictures of all the numbers I could find stamped on them but I cannot find a good place on the web were I can run the numbers and see exactly which parts I need to order. Example: - on the gearbox I have: TRE10046 622 - on the transfer box I have: HRC2807 TCP 16 and FRC 6104 and FRC5415 (I suspect those are individual parts numbers) - on the steering box I have: BS2789 - on the rear diff I have: HRC 1124 ROVER 08/07 Could someone tell me what is the correct way of identifying the exact part numbers? Looking at my VIN I could have any of the following gearboxes: LT77 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive LT77S 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive LT85 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive R380 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive PG1 5 Speed Manual / Left Hand Drive I suspect I have the R380 but looking online I find R380LS (LS = Long stick - I presume). Would that fit a LHD? Thank you.