david.stanley

Got the fob working again, went round my mates house and he got it working again. He wants to explain what he did so that if anybody else gets the problem they can use this help and save themselves over £100! Basically all I did was push the pins that connect the negative side of the batteries up to make sure they are contacting and then i made sure that the positive side is connected. This was the tricky bit cause the positive side has a metal strip running down the seperate battery cover and was ment to touch a little bit of metal that is in the main casing but this peice of metal was twisted and bent to the side so I used what tools I had(biggest pair of pliers possible according to dave) to bend this strip of metal to the centre of the space for the battery cover and it worked....a simple bit of non-connection was all the problem was.

Glad you mentioned that as I've been out in the car most of the day today and each time I go to get back in the car I have to re-enter the code. I guess that confirms the faulty fob and I have a direction to go in to get it fixed. I can get a friend at Uni to inspect the circuitry as he's on an electronics course. I'll also have a look at the sensor on top of the door pillar. I have the handbook folder but it only has service history and receipts etc in it. The previous owner didn't have the instruction manual. Thanks a lot, you've all been very helpful on this forum. Doubt I'll go back to landrovernet.com

Turning the key four times to the left first and then entering the code has allowed me to start the engine at last, I bet that was in the manual - can't wait for the new one to arrive. Just had the batteries out to check they were in correctly and they are. The positive side of the battery is facing the back of the battery cover with the + on it and all the contacts are clean and contacting. Guess I just need a new fob now, over £100 from LR right? Thanks for the help, still had no replies on landrovernet.com

I've had the battery off a few times after it's gone dead (it has spent a fair bit of time sitting over the last year) and never had to enter the radio code but I'm familiar with re-syncing the windows lol. Everything worked before although there has been "alarm fault" showing since the battery went dead earlier in the year but the alarm does work (I've heard it with my head under the bonnet - ouch) and the front and rear passenger side window switches can be a bit hit and miss. The batteries went in correctly but the red LED does not flash when a button is pressed, but this stopped happening before I changed the batteries and prompted me to change them thinking they were dead. I've just read an extra bit of info saying to turn the key to the left 4 times before entering the EKA so I'm going to try that although I'm sure I didn't do it the night it stopped the first time. The 5 button presses near the car didn't do anything.

Hi again, It is a P38 1999/2000 model. I've tried the EKA again with no luck but will try pressing the key fob buttons 5 times near the vehicle. A friend has suggested disconnecting the battery for a while for the ECU to reset, will this achieve anything? Thanks for the replies

Posted this on Land Rover Net and have had no response all day. Last night at work the key fob worked. Then it stopped so I tried to remove the battery cover to change the battery. While trying to remove it the notch for the penny/screwdriver etc shredded leaving a round recess in the cover. This meant I couldn't remove the cover. Went out the car again and could only unlock the drivers door, the others wouldn't even open when I pulled the internal locks up. I put the key in the ignition and got "Engine disabled Press key". Now, I can't do this as the key doesn't work. I went home and searched the handbook folder for the EKA code we used last time this happened, went back to work, entered the code and I could start the car although the the remote still didn't work. This morning I have the same message on the dash but I can still unlock all the locks from the drivers door manually. I've been to my local LR dealer to buy replacement button cover, battery cover and batteries. They said once I put the new batteries in and try the EKA code again I will be able to start the car. This isn't the case and I still can't start the car. Can anyone help?

Hi guys, Me again. It's my car. After the incident we spoke the LRM's editor and he said "get a quote, it's what we pay insurance for". He's now saying they accept no responsibility for the incident but has sent me a letter asking me to confirm some details (ownership, me being legally allowed to drive it, road worthyness etc). I'm having the disclaimer looked over by my uncle (he's a solicitor) as from what I remember from my Law lectures at University you cannot exclude liability for negligence. I have photos of the damage, the recovering vehicle with so much mud on the back it is impossible to see out of it, some eye wtinesses have come forward on another forum (some with photos IIRC). For the guy who asked what £3K's worth of damage to a P38 looks like, it looks like (all need replacing): Front bumper Bumper brackets Bumper supports Bumper seal Grille Right headlamp assembly Right headlamp trim Left front blanking cover Right front blanking cover Right front indicator Right front wing Left radiator seal Right radiator seal Lower airduct Radiator Oil cooler Intercooler Bonnet dent removal Plus labour, paint shop charges for the bonnet, wing and trim panels then VAT on the lot too