yellow
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Posts posted by yellow
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Christmas coming, credit crunch... Everyone is affected...
Bastrds...
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Try LaSalle for 'early' trim sets... Click here
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Priced at (Exmoor factory price + Exmoor profit + Supplier profit) so yes, the prices went up...
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As you did it yourself, I'd say the roof is still sealed. It might have been a build up of condensation on the inside of the roof.
I had a steady drip from the roof, especially the sunroof as the condensation on the inside started melting and dripping on my pants (Granted this is a 110, but the roof is the same)
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His nearest local breaker probably only has US trucks...
As for the 'blanket', it does what it says on the tim. I have one on my 200TDI and the wife says the vehicle is more silent than a TD5. And the blanket is the only thing I have on there... Still contemplating the Wright Offroad matting.
Also, look for adding heavy material onto the load area in the back, and possibly the wheel arches. Insulating the roof and sides with sift 'fluffy' material would help greatly as well.
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I believe that all non-ecu petrol engines have a manual choke... I stand to be corrected though
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You could also 'angle grind' out the VIN on the chassis. Throw the plates and other VIN Tags away separately
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Check whether the flexible air hoses to and from intercooler/airfilter are not collapsing under power. The laminated insides tend to let loose after a while.
Quite hard to spot, as you would not want to stick your head onto the engine just to check whether they are collapsing.
The solution would be to change them for new ones, preferably to silicone hoses....
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As for parts, especially drivetrain related, I believe you get what you pay for. I'd go for genuine UJs and make sure they have a grease nipple.
Changing is easy and can be done by carefully using a set of spanners and Land Rover Tool #1 (Big hammer)
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Check your UJ joints on the props. They could be worn and throw off the balance of the props. Oh, adn do not wait for it to go bang, get underneath and find out...
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I do not know where you are located, but as you probably do not have a use for the LHD parts anymore, I would be interested.
From memory, and there could be more parts needed:
Swivel house
Steering box and some of the rods/components
Heater assembly
Dash
Handbrake assembly
Wiper assembly
I believe there is a topic on this. Check the Tech Archive forum, as most questions related to this are to change RHD into LHD.
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Changing a Tbox is quite straight forward. Make sure that the handbrake bracket fits well before refitting, as they differ slightly between versions.
Should be a 4 hour job if it is the first time, including tea and biscuits... Oh, almost forgot, be aware of the 'hidden' bolt...
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thus killing the engine, using the engine as braking, whilst leaving the ignition on, and the truck in gear, and saving fuel, and whenst the gradient levels a tad one simply removes ones heel from said button a BINGO the ol' beast BURSTS back into life agian and off you jolly well !!!!!
I'M NOT MAD!!!!!!!!!!!
You are as mad as a mad hatter... Going downhill without the power steering or any other ancillary taking its guts off the normally running engine.
No thank you...
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Thanks,
Will start sourcing the RH hub with the steering link.
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I am thinking of swapping my steering from the right to the left, and for that I'd need to swap the axle for a LHD version. As most of the parts are the same between LHD and RHD, and RRCs and Discos are cheaper over here, I would like to know which parts I can scavenge...
My vehicle is a 110, V8 of 1987 vintage.
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If you want to try an reputable non-UK based supplier, try www.lpi.be They speak 4 languages, not just English, and will ship almost anywhere... Good service and good quality parts.
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Depending on the looks, and the amount of 'rot' I'd say that once you are this far, you might as well keep it, mainly as then you will not lose too much of your time and money. But like you said, pictures speak louder than words.
Having a vehicle ready to drive around in, means you can take your time finding a nice 200Tdi engine and pop that one in. It will boost your vehicle's value by the same amount as you would have paid for the much more loved 200Tdi...
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What are you going to use it for?
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No damage, but remind yourself to lock the center diff... Also easy on the revs when accelerating as the force of your engine is not going to both axles, but to one only.
This is for temporary use only, try to fix the issue soon....
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I refitted the spats by drilling some pilot holes and using self-tapping screws. Simple and fast.
As for water ingress... I drove without the spats for a month or two this summer. Had no issues...
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I was able to reuse the old spring on one side, but not on the other side. The 'other' side spring I had to undo by finding the link in the spring and slowly turning the two ends opposite (It is a conical spring turned into itself.) Reassembly, although fiddly, was by adding a little dot of Loctite, and turning the spring into itself again.
This all because I did not have the 12-sided spanner to undo the mentally tight bolts on the swivel...
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How's that then
If the RHD and LHD foot wells are the same but the tunnel if offset to the left (we do not want to get confused with near side and offside which are opposite depending on steering wheel position) how can they BE THE SAME
What Nic asked is whether BOTH the left and right footwells of the RHD Defender are the same as the left and right footwell of a LHD defender, and the answer to that is 'yes'
The tunnel is in the same place in a LHD Defender and an RHD Defender.
Nic's in need of this information as he needs to cut templates for his new clientele on the continent, where 99% of Defenders are LHD.
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Disco box has the 'sticks' in a different place and somehow just does not look right ina Defender. NA box would bolt on easily.
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I am driving Bedford - Belgium - Southampton -Belgium... All this weekend.
But I guess you're sorted...
VIN number
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
On the chassis rail, right side in front of the wheel, on the little bit that goes towards underneath the bumper...