Mr Noisy

Yeah you're right there I guess, so in theory it could run on the breather pipe diameter. You are right to assume that when a car has a idle valve the throttle flap is fully closed at idle. The airflow splits inside the plenum for the idle control because you have the pipe the the idle valve but you also have the base idle screw, this is where it splits off. I wonder say perhaps if your base idle screw/porting is faulty?

Awesome nige, fingers crossed indeed pal! What coolant temp are you actually hoping for at 'normal operating temperature' ? And what were you getting? Or was it boiling over?!

Like nice said, if it runs with hand over the inlet, you have a bad leak, simple. Don't try to think about timing or anything. Hand over intake and listen for the sucking sound!

Mike I'm afraid I haven't tried to stop mine with hand over intake but I can do this if it would help you. On most accounts though it should stop when blocked even if it could run on some air through the breather. Tbh I think it would not be able to get enough air through breather. I really think you need a fresh set of eyes to look at this pal cos you might be just too fried!

Gotta find where that air is getting in when you block the TB with your hand! Gotta be that simple?!

Atmospheric breathing is probably no bad thing but I think PCV is better for oil health etc?

You might find that too much air is allowed through the big pipe because there is no mushroom filter, but I have mine set up with 6mm fitting instead of filter as do many and it is fine The breather setup to the left rocker cover won't make any difference as such, just air flows opposite way through crankcase to normal Hotwire operation. Try blocking or restricting the right hand breather inlet to attempt to disprove any breather theory, IMO the important part is that little restrictive T piece, the bigger pipe is for open throttle but would/could cause flat spot.

Pretty sure the large pipe from the T piece to the TB is before the throttle flap so shouldn't be a problem anyway, and the system is set up to draw the correct amount through the small part of the t piece UNLESS the large part is after the throttle flap in which case the lack of mushroom restrictor means that there is far too much air getting in to the inlet. Could be the issue.

Really we could do with a meet up to have a look about if you can't find this problem!

Well I doubted myself after I posted this, because of course it could run off the air through the breathers, potentially! The only way into the crankcase is through rocker breather, the flat topped rockers have the breather left side rear, the little mushroom chap, not sure about old rover type. Are your breathers set up correctly for a Hotwire system on those old rocker covers?

Stick your hand over the inlet and see if it stalls/listen for vacuum leaks Should be able to stall it with your hand and hold very good vacuum until you pull hand off, if hand doesn't get stuck on you have a leak

Didn't realise you were having problems mike, shoulda text me and I could have checked over your WB setup, needs setting up in the configurator/project properties as well you see! Anyway, best advice is as above, get back to very basic basics, the car should rung perfectly on nige's original msq. Good luck, text me and come down to the garage if you have brain ache!

oh hardy har har the intermediate shaft hole was just fine, nice and round, its actually leaking (at first inspection) straight out the bottom of the front housing where it meets the main casing. admittedly the gaskets were not that thick and there might be a slight imperfection in the casting. anyway, i'll clean it up and source the leak and make a plan. not what i needed as i particularly wanted the job boxed off last week! cheers

Well It drives a LOT better! Not had chance for any motorway time yet but a short stretch at 70 odd saw me in the 14.somethings on my retuned power map, at 3k rpm Will spend some more time on it soon! Bloody transfer case has an oil leak

Cheers mukka

Hi Nige! : Fitted today and by Jove even just moving out of the workshop, noticeable difference! Yes the plan hopefully is to head out tomorrow for a tuning run! Should I retune on easy or hard do you think? Cheers, Sam

Clean, tidy and ready to refit

Progress

Ok I now own a 1.4 transfer case, thanks to dirtydiesel Will get it scrubbed up and fitted soon enough

Yeah I mean I could buy a transfer case and worst case make a good one out of mine with different gear set, but I assume most will be alright. Ideally buy one from trusted source of course!! Had considered 4.75 CWP while back!

Oh yeah fully aware the diffs are the best solution whereas transfer box is a "fix" but it's 400 quid and a load of graft I don't need right now, just can't justify it I'm afraid

Out of a stock 3.5 chance would be a fine thing!! Thankyou for your valued help gennulmen, this economy thread will be revisited when running 1.4 ratio. I expect to pick up a transfer case for not too much bother! (Famous last words)

£200 per gearset! 1.4 transfer case anyone??

Ahhh! Great post Nige! So, 1.4 box or 4.11 CWP it is! As above, lt230 is cheaper and I am poor but I will try my best!

Thanks chaps. Yes I had looked at diff ratios, the ideal is 1:1 transfer case with super low diffs, for much lower low and standard high. Financially, 1.4 case will prevail however. Going to look at doing this, ideally swap with a defender owner!