Jump to content

Mr Noisy

Settled In
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    752

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Mr Noisy

  1. Mr Noisy
    Hey Gordon Thanks for the tips So you can fit 125ft @11mm on a regular lowline? Thanks Sam
  2. Mr Noisy
    I might wait a week or so and have a chat with david bowyer at the show, see if he knows how much I could squeeze onto a drum I just don't want to miss an opportunity to have as much rope spooled on as I can It's not a competition vehicle so the winch tends to get used when we're in the **** and as the Welsh hillside taught me the other day when the rope snapped, anchor points can be few and far between!
  3. Mr Noisy
    I did as well, but only because it was damaged, no? It wasn't even close to the limit until it was weakened. Nothing. Doubling the effort through a pulley block gives you twice the pull at the load, but you're sharing it over two pieces of rope,miso they only see the max 9500lbs each
  4. Mr Noisy
    Hi guys Thanks for that Was working on that basis that 11mm is WAY over spec for my 9500lb winch Andy said 9.5mm plasma breaks at 17000lb and that 8mm would be quite sufficient but going to 9.5mm would give extra safety to allow for chafing and damage etc as the rope gets used hard. But I do think 11mm is overkill if I'm honest, I mean we discussed 100ft @ 9.5 being good to reduce bunching and keep the rope closer to the centre of the drum, but the fact of having more line can be beneficial when you need that long pull I actually only just bought a 50ft extension line for the just in case moment but that doesn't mean more line on the drum wouldn't be of use, just not so sure it'll fit
  5. Mr Noisy
    oiled bearings is the ideal solution, thats how land rover designed the axles way back when every oil seal added or specification change to grease since then has been to reduce leaks and maintenance NB: this has not been without cost to lubrication and component longevity I still use ep90 in my swivels after one time opening one up to find that in winter when it was assembled the grease had been thick enough to not fling up and lube the top bearing
  6. Mr Noisy
    Hey chaps So its time for me again to call on those who are older and wiser than i am I recently snapped my winch rope, so it is time for replacement. It was a budget 11mm that had served a good few years very well, so theres no particular complaint. It got jammed in a pulley block which damaged it, and shortly after it had let go. It was 11mm and if you didnt wrap it onto the drum under load, the drum was pretty much brimmed. This is a regular lowline drum, 9" long, 6" across, 2.5" core. I have been speaking with Andy @ Ruftraks regards some plasma line, i was wondering about upgrading my line quality and thus being able to go thinner, and thus having room to go longer, up to 125ft from my original 100. I was wondering however if, at 9.5mm rope, 150ft would fit on the drum. I guess not, but wondered if anyone had any experience or opinions of any of the above. Im all ears, many thanks in advance
  7. Mr Noisy
    But you could pop some 3.54s in it and keep it as it is, with some tidying mind ... Or does he not actually want a lowered truck? I think it's cool and it's got the makings of greatness!
  8. Mr Noisy
    Thanks simon However I must say, if the static pad is wearing more than the moving pad, it implies that the caliper is quite happy to move I would have thought! Anyway after stripping it down a bit last night and removing all pad preload, I could tell the caliper was quite happy to move on the rubbers I must say I was surprised as I expected due to the design of the caliper that if anything the moving pad would have worn more I think maybe the static pad has worn from always being in contact with the disc whereas the moving pad is forcibly backed off Anyway I'm back on the road and all is well, and when it does become time for pads I'll know much better what to do! Cheers!
  9. Mr Noisy
    Well I rotated the arm 2 notches actually, and then moved up to the top hole on the arm instead of the Middle hole So I have now rescued my cable travel, and I am able to apply much more handbrake effort, all down to a simple adjustment, thanks simon!! The moving pad is hardly worn but the fixed pad certainly is, I've probably got around 1mm until the caliper body contacts the disc But now with new-found adjustment methods I can fettle the brake to keep it tip-top whatever pad thickness I have. Great!
  10. Mr Noisy
    Simon! Many thanks for that I will attempt a lever rotation. Remember of course I am on discovery 200 lever and I "think" they have less clicks available due to the constraints of the console aperture, but, I will see what's what There is certainly lots of thickness on the pads, just as above, I think I am struggling to apply it. Cheers, Sam!
  11. Mr Noisy
    Hi chaps Not had chance to get this off yet but I have had a look The moving pad isn't too bad but the static pad has a couple mm wear in it You can see on the rubber slides where it has moved to allow for this wear Anyway This car only gets used off road so to speak and mud is a big deal I do rear pads in like 500 miles sometimes just because the mud rips the pads to pieces I bet the x brake is no more than 2000 miles into its life over maybe 3 years, but it has clearly, steadily worn Anyway hoping tomorrow to take it off and I'll get some pics Reckon it's just worn tbh! Not gonna take offence at all by the way if anyone wants to school me on how to adjust this bugger but tbh I thought it was a pretty simple affair!
  12. Mr Noisy
    Thanks for the part numbers chaps, if I'm honest I have no quarms buying them off Foundry anyway and supporting them/X-Eng etc I will pull the caliper tomorrow, if it simply appears to be thin pads it'll be a nice easy fix, I don't know what function the repair kit has but at 15 quid it's no great shakes either Thanks
  13. Mr Noisy
    i know i know we were out and about in north wales on sunday you see any idea where the gate was?
  14. Mr Noisy
    right thanks gents i shall whip the caliper off i think tomorrow night and have a look see whats going on cheers!
  15. Mr Noisy
    hey chaps so ive got an x brake of a couple years vintage and it has been grand the rest of the car hasnt been so grand mind so if had the brake on and off various times with transmission changes etc and i have noted that each time i reinstall i am adjusting the cable up further and further i use the centre hole on the arm and am now more or less at the end of my adjustment, ie, the arms is substantially rotated at rest position already i assume this is simply due to pad wear however, as an x brake noob i thought it worth a post to see what y'all think - maybe simon could even advise me from his point of view!! i did think perhaps my cable was stretching but i have no lack of braking power once adjusted, but then before too long i need to adjust, rinse and repeat it has only come to light now as 3 clicks is no longer sufficient for steep hills, i am out of cable/caliper travel i think at that, so i reckon the pads are likely to blame any help appreciated! cheers, sam
  16. Mr Noisy
    Yesterday being monday?! sheesh, worried it might have been us on sunday for a moment
  17. Mr Noisy
    It's not adjustable, it is OEM 300 though You need to head to wilwood's website
  18. Mr Noisy
    I don't doubt that ARBs are reasonable and only a couple years ago they were THE name in lockers for us Brits too. I think a lot of the failures in this country are fatigue related on older units and the parts supply is so awkward that many units become scrap I guess. Maybe Land Rover axles are being pushed beyond the limits that ARB originally designed their units to withstand, whereas an Ashcroft unit is designed to withstand the punishments their in house drivetrain systems are capable of delivering to the diff. If Ashcroft hadn't designed an essentially better unit we would all still be using ARB, just like the rest of the world and any non LR application.
  19. Mr Noisy
    Ohlins: the camera was iphone 5S, but i do try to pay some attention to metering, and edit some of my shots to improve white balance and sharpness LRF: thanks, yeah the flexi hoses just seem so natural to me. ok ok they are high tech compared to old copper, but when i wanted to remove my hubs the other day to check the bearings were doing nicely, just popped the caliper off with no problems which was the main reason for doing it Bill: thanks, i kinda threw it together becuase there was so many pictures to deal with, but the info is there Nige: meh
  20. Mr Noisy
    Thanks for the help chaps
  21. Mr Noisy
    The other thing that used to be a problem wsy back when at least was E marking on tyres. We had an American boat/trailer and had or at least decided to swap out the tyres for UK trailer tyres that were E marked. I see lots of boats with evidently USA tyres on and nobody gives a toss so it was perhaps a waste of effort but a good 15/20 years ago we decided it was a good idea to not have what we thought were illegal tyres on the trailer. I currently have pitbull rockers and wondered about the E Mark thing but as above im now not as sure it's as much of a problem as we did back then. But maybe my insurer would say different if I skidded into somebody with American tyres fitted?
  22. Mr Noisy
    Soooo Basically there's no problem?
  23. Mr Noisy
    whats the deal on importing tyres these days? i thought it was something along the lines of you get thrown in prison if you do, as they are basically illegal due to new EU (Grrrrrrrrr) legislation? i have pitbull tyres and am dreading the day when i wish to replace them...
  24. Mr Noisy
    You could buzz the show in 2 hours but if you stop for a look or poke about under some bonnets it could take all day ?
  25. Mr Noisy
    Thanks for all the comments chaps anyway, and yes Nige I have seen the video. It was like seeing myself on TV
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy

  I accept