Mr Noisy

Thanks for that bbc, will investigate all options! These fancy component numbers hurt the eyes a little

Yes, I am under the impression that tacho out has been handled to some extent inside the ECU. It definitely has gubbins but I was under the impression it would drive a tacho direct, that was the point in having it done!! Those tach fix boxes that extra EFi sell look like the item which is required, or have I basically got that inside the ECU already??

Hi chaps. Thankyou for that diagram rob, I see it needs more than a simple direct connection! Fridge, will check. No, I don't have a scope, recentty sold one, but was just thinking I could bloody do with it now!!

Ok so I need to call on someone with the tecknikal info here! Is the output from the ECU similar or distinctly dissimilar from a coil negative? I thought coil negative was positive with a negative pulse? Or is it the other way round? Basically why night this counter not be working?? Help would be appreciated before I start ripping the dash apart again!!

Thanks matey Yes, the rev counter is wired up correctly! So, is it a case of this rev counter not being compatible?? It was previously wired to coil negative!

Bah. Now got 12v at S1 on relay board (checked other three for continuity too, all ok!) but still no rev counter Will check rev counter is wired up properly first!

Also altering the d37 patch lead. Marked the SPR wires as 'somebody' made them all the same colour

SO Has anyone ever been in the situation where this... ...orange light is on all the time because you have purposely wired your On Off On switch backwards? Basically this is because I am using the switch as a selector between Main Beam on, Off, and Constant On for the roof lights, and the way it is wired puts permanent live to the pin to which the orange light is wired. Why not switch the main beam and permanent feeds you say? BECAUSE my default position is main beam, and to have the switch downwards to match the others, main beam must be wired to the top pin and permanent live to the bottom pin, which puts the orange light on. So, we must change the switch. This COULD be a first for teh internets! Pop the back off, caution, springs! And we have a beautifully simple switch inside, truly American! These are the little chaps that do the lights. Notice there is a spring and a resistor. Some Carling switches are available with incandescent lamps and I guess they don't have the resistor, just a longer spring like the earth spring: So it wasn't too much trouble to do a cheeky move on the positive wire for the orange led (cathode?) to the spare position: I decided I needed access to the centre pin so I could fit a fairly crude jumper wire. The only way was to drill from the outside, straight through: And here is a visual circuit diagram Soldered the wire into the centre pin bucket, shoved the untinned end into the spring hole, popped the resistor in then shoved that down which kinda crimped the wire in place and popped the spring in: Then carefully clipped the switch back together, plugged it in and exclaimed hurrah out loud when it worked! Well chuffed with that one Now I've got three to do for my mate's Hilux, he has put up with switches not matching his other switch positions for a year, I persuaded him to change them but he said only if I can find a fix for the lights

Almost have a car again...!

Hi FF Yep, will simply remove my d37 patch lead and swap the 3 4 5 6 pins at the relay board end to the 25 27 29 31 pins, and then i shall have tacho life Thankyou for your help! Cheers!

Hi TRE Thanks for that, yep the relay board must be different! It's no problem now that i, and everyone else reading this thread now knows the mod Regards inside the ecu, somewhat ashamedly i opted to have the ecu built by Nige's builder, too much like complex electronics for me perhaps! As such, i have no idea what has been done, but it uses JS0 and then goes to SPR1. Cheers!

Pinout table here confirms this: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/relay-cable.html Hmmmm confusion! (Although not confusing cos it clearly doesn't work as it is!)

Right! So if the whole top row are ground, how am I not blowing fuses??!?!?! I was going off this diagram: Evidently this is the diagram for the ECU, but perhaps the relay board is wired differently to the ECU?!?! Thankyou TRE

This is spare 1 (used white for spare) and I have 12.3v here!

Right chaps. Tuning is going nicely thankyou, won't bother you with nitbits until I get something I feel worth posting BUT HAD CHANCE TO PROBE MY ECU AND I HAVE 12V AT SPARE 1 BUT No 12v at spare 1 on the relay board. Probed the relay board input at got like 12.3 volts, but the S1 output 0v and no continuity either. Any ideas??!

Ha ha, win teh internets!

SOZ TRE!

ah, i see. well. arent i a tit then

the answer would have been established eventually, i'm a bit put out that you told us so soon!

mmmmmm tophat 4.6

oh yeah, guaranteed that the drum type fans (with around 40 blades) found in car systems are better at pushing air at a higher pressure, thats why they have 15 amp fuses and mine has a 3 amp fuse!

pretty sure its this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213010

yeah i looked at that medium heater but wasnt sure it was necessary! if it becomes a problem, i will simplu whip the dash out again and improve the dash board demister fittings, would be better boring 50mm through the dash and fitting more efficient free flowing ducts straight through rather than spreading it though the fancy in dash moulded ducting arrangement. the fan used in the lightweight claims 190cfm!

Yeah it's a pc type 120mm but I looks to be a special one cos it's: More savage looking than I've ever seen Got swept blades like a submarine propeller Makes a right bloody racket!

Ah ha, the heater! Well, it's not quite as good as I hoped but tbh it's a quarter of the size I expected! Without pipes it kicks out some serious blow, with pipes it's more than acceptable, with dashboard on top and demister ducting etc it struggles. Don't get me wrong, it demists and it heats, but it's no whirlwind!! Would I buy another? No, it was not cheap at 110 quid. Is there another/better option considering the usage? No, there are no other custom type heaters. Does it do what i need it to do? Yes, it blows, heats and is very small. My ONLY gripe is that it is very small and therefore has its limits, but I have space for more which this does not fill!