Mr Noisy

hi chaps sorry im a sucker for neatness and i'm really pulling out the stops for this job. doing the job once and doing it properly! no chance am i revisiting this any time soon! tonight sorted out the mounting for the switch panel, tis very sexual, pics tomorrow! zoltan, yeah i had heard about people doing that but my limited knowledge suggests that tuning in MLV with wideband will be more efficient? chances are it works both ways round, but i do also have a guage for the LC1 so i can keep an eye on and compare readings between the guage anbd the ecu view. im just glad its running at the moment, so much work to do and pushing it around the workshop was definitely a PITA!!

Well, tonight mainly involved: Fitting nice multi connectors from VWP to the power loom for MS, it now runs again. Fitting nice Superseal connectors to both my NB sensor and WB sensor, which has now arrived, so the sensors can be quickly interchanged. Riveting and sealing a plate over the hole in the bulkhead where the original heater inlet was. No more water gushing through the bulkhead! Aaand sorting out/making the first few wiring parts up on my switch panel. More tomorrow

Ok fair play I have just read this whole thread, 2 hours! Incredible!!! Best get on with my LR now... Ultra respecto Nige

Interesting that you had such a job to change the engine info. Especially seeing as yours was a v8 90 anyway. I just sent the old logbook back with the new engine number on it, and a week or so later the new logbook arrived with the new engine. There wasn't a capacity change though, maybe that was the difference...?

Thankyou for a helpful reply fridge. I understand! Can't wait to get the work sorted so I can get out on the road and put these theories into practice... Today, 9 hours later the fuse/switch wiring has been extended, chopped, split, joined and generally readied and sorted. The heater fitted. The MS loom refitted. The heater ducted, job done Going to order tomorrow from VWP a connector to join the MS loom to its power supply, another relay bracket, some cable and SOME MORE SOLDER!!! Dashboard will be in before you know it!

Thanks Nige. Right so the plan is this: Finish the car, get the idle nice and write down the settings, then go out for a 30min datalog on NB and let MLV have a look at it. I will post it up so we can discuss And then we'll see about fitting the WB and getting it tuned really really tightly, after all that is the point of having the WB sensor, to get it very accurate very quickly Wiring today, ugh

I think Nige was saying that it is better to start with a rough tune to start with. In all fairness this does seem sensible to me. Plus, it will be easier to get my head round it in stages, cos the Wideband setup is fairly complex in itself! Thankyou muchly for your help, a simple step by step is so helpful! You'll all be kept in the loop anyway, nothing will happen to this car without it being on here before and after anyway I assume that seeing as there is 12 rpm buckets a decent place to start is 500rpm increase, so we end up at 6000? Or is it better to have buckets closer spaced at low revs, whereas anything above 4500 is considered flat out WOT, or??? Oh abs by the way it is precisely a week ago I won the WB on eBay, seller has superb feedback etc, basically the courier collected it on Tuesday and its been "out for delivery" since Thursday. Parcel2go using Hermes. What is the point in a small/new courier firm competing for business if they are useless?

Yes will indeed be interesting, I have read only good reviews on it although not many, the seller (t7design.co.uk) claims it performs as well as your average heater twice the size! It is around 15cm square and about 10cm deep but it puts out some serious blow, remarkable actually for basically a 120mm computer fan. I'm just hoping that a v8 powered heater matrix the same size as a piece of toast is enough to demist my screen and MAYBE warm the car, although to exhausts take care of that too!

Hi quagmire. Hmmm, Nige said that sometimes Wideband can behave in the opposite to what you'd expect if the mixture is really out so it can make matters worse. Conflicting advice on something I know nothing about One thing I do want to look at that I haven't been able to find yet is this AFR target table! Or is that part of MLV? Not been on there yet... I really do need some assistance on finding the component parts of megatune/MLV - there's lots of info on what to basically do, but not a lot on how or where to do it Which is where I struggle!!! Anyway. I am making good progress on the build so will have it out on the road soon enough, then us new friends can try to tune it together! yay! Speaking of which, in typical land rover fashion, I got less done tonight than I expected! Started off by flipping the heater matrix over on my new heater cos I just couldn't fit the hoses the other way round, also I fitted some new, man size hose tails: Then (we) pulled out the Megasquirt loom completely. Had to cut the 6 wires that link the loom to the car, these being battery power and earth, switched power, fuel pump supply and tacho pulse, and the EDIS battery earth which is separate. However this is quite handy because I'm now going to fit a 5 way and 1 way plug from VWP so that the loom is removable for service at any time. Here is the loom on the floor laid out: And here it is taped up, took approximately 2 1/2 hours to remove and tape!! And by the way Nige, that harness tape is incredible!!!!!

So! Had a night off on Friday, nearly gassed myself Thursday night, then got 5 1/2 hours sleep, and generally felt terrible on Friday. Got an early night Friday, and am back on track now. This evening I'm going to remove, tape and replace the loom. Will also fit the heater. May get chance to check the igntion timing with a strobe light and adjust megatune accordingly. Nige also tells me to have a look at the VE and spark tables and see which buckets it likes to idle in, probably a group of 4. I am to write down those values, so then when I start road tuning (which he recommends I start on narrowband as Wideband is "too good" to start with and should be used later on for tightening the tables up) the likelihood is that megalogviewer will want to lean out the VE table but then it will likely not idle so well, so I have to then manually replace the idle buckets, if the idle or startup is bad. So, forward planning whilst I've got time to think about it: Urm, well, tonight loom and heater. Then I need to start thinking about getting the dash back in. All the wiring for my dashboard switch panel is basically there, just some need extending etc. Will likely focus on sorting that wiring out tomorrow, would be super nice to get the wiring all soldered up etc and ready to receive the switches but leave it plenty long so I can leave it sticking out of the dashboard hole, then I can put the dash back in and start getting the car back to normal. I think once I have had the car out on the road it will help me to regain some sanity, because recently it has been 2 weeks of solid brain pain and minimum pleasure or relief! Then I will be quite happy to get stuck in again and wire up the switch panel! Pics later!

Thanks fridge, another one explained

Hello gents. Bloody knackered today, think I got a bit gassed last night running it in the workshop Anyway, I think the Wideband will arrive today. Gonna set it up in configurator, and then in exhaust gas settings. Do I need to select AFR table for VE table 1? I had a look at the auto tune, do I simply turn autotune on, drive around various styles, then stop, switch off and ign on again then burn to ECU? Is that it??!

500rpm base idle. Life is good again, thankyou v8 freak!!

Thankyou, by the way, and thankyou Nige for the help elsewhere! Will now get back on track...

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Neil my new best buddy old pal!! The two inner holes are open to the plenum. Blocked them with my fingers and the engine stopped! Looks like I need some more base idle. V8 Freak you absolute day-making hero!

Yeah have been spraying brake cleaner around, and when I spray it near the injectors/inlet mani gasket it drops the revs nearly to a stall. Wtf?!?!

The breather doesn't make much difference to rpms, drops to around 1200...

Pwm is removed and has been removed every time and both ports are fully blocked! Seems I might have an air leak because I put my hand over intake pipe on tickover and it carries on running quite happily with nearly no vacuum on my hand!

Fidle/Spark off flashes even when CTS registers 180F ??

Slow idle target is 820rpm above 72F!

Ok thanks, TPS now calibrated, didn't save and exit before. Now I have idle speed 2000rpm after revving up, and base idle screw fully adjusted closed. Will try again to remove pwm and see what idle is.

Hmmm problems. Can't get throttle to 0%. Calibrate many times but always rests around 5-8%. Get a full sweep to 100% and nice and smooth but won't calibrate to 0%. So could this be why it will not idle below 1400rpm? PWM disconnected, both ports blocked, and idle screw full in I get 1300/1400rpm. Reconnect PWM and get 1700rpm approx. It just won't slow down! Don't think I had this problem until I filled the coolant up, now I have coolant temp 177F and its running fast. Have sprayed carb cleaner around and makes no difference Idle is a bit up and down and air/fuel ratio fluctuates (NB) when the pwm is plugged in. Any ideas??!

Speak to Nige anyway and I'm sure he can confirm/sort out the prices! Relay board is definitely "nice" I am a person that can justify £98 for something which is nice. It also means the wiring is screwed in not soldered to an impossible ECU plug so much easier for any future repairs, but if you're on a budget or simply not bothered about having the "nice" solution then you don't really need it. Not trying to influence you either way because its personal choice really, to the sum of around £98!

Yeah! I'm thinking the ARB compressor and maybe ECU will fit behind there now!

Old heater, new heater, lol Hope it works!!