Meatslicer

If the cappings are re-manufactured, you may need to grind down the galv layer on the inner/under side where the capping rests on the tub sides. The process used can leave drip accumulation on the inner surfaces. Thats why you usually have to re-tap any threads on re-manufactured parts that have threads already in them. If they don't quite line up with your holes try grinding the lower inner edge of the cappings. Also for the seal, when I removed the cappings on my 110, there was a really heavy duty glued sponge material holding and sealing the cappings on. The thickness of this type of seal can elevate the replacement capping and mess with the alignment. Eric

I got some 13 inch landrover pattern wheels from indispension that drop the sankey height by a good 4 inches. Actually moving a sankey without wheels on would do you an injury unless you are using a winch. how about removing the wheels and tub and laying flat on the floor of the container, drive the Landy up over it, should be enough clearance. Dont the army just turn the sankey upside down and on top of the landy deck then pack all the panels and roof etc around it? Eric

Its the terminal cover for the battery, the peg at the side slots into the hole on the battery case. Cant tell if its the positive or the negative one though Eric

I made my sankey trailer/caravan conversion using a series 90 roof, there are a lot fewer curves to worry about at the front end and the width is just a little wider than the sankeys main base struts. Defender 90 roof rack will fit too giving additional storage on top. I bolted a wooden beam using yhe original bolt holes to screw the sides to it. These were made of double thickness plastic fencing panels which gave it additional strength, water proofing and lightness. Are you using the nato hitch and what will you be towing with? The hitch on mine had to be inverted and smaller sized wheels put on instead of the original defender type wheels, so the trailer would travel level on the road instead of nose down behind a standard height tow car. Eric

Blocked jets or leaking fuel pump? Any smell of diesel in the engine bay? (More than normal!) Next thing would be hand pump a large amount of fuel to check for air/vapour locks in the fuel lines. Even further back, is the breather clear? try turning over with fuel cap off. if it flows the breather is blocked with dirt or grease. Eric

Bring it on!

I was going to chip in that removing or reducing the thickness of the bulkhead footwell to chassis shims would bring the bulkhead forward at least 10mm. Depends if the gap is the same all round or the bulkhead is leaning back a little. When I welded on the OS rear body outrigger on my 110 my bifocals made me think it was straight and level but when I mounted the tub it was definitely forward and when I checked it, it was 15mm forward at the outer edge. Changed my glasses to single focus after that! Eric

Blimey, thats exactly what I was planning to do with mine! I would only be expanding sideways about 3-4 inches each side but the theory is the same. Its all just a matter of cutting extra pieces and welding them on almost as extensions. The bulkhead widening is exactly as i had imagined it. Eerie. Eric

My Sankey trailer has been sitting on my drive for a year. Towed it off the other day and it moved sweet as a nut. Heavy duty mechanics on this thing. There was a 300kg land rover engine on it though so there was plenty of pressure on the wheels! Eric

Sorry gents, managed to break an ankle building a new kitchen for the wife. A step ladder decided it didnt want to wait for me to get off before it moved sideways. Been in plaster up to my knee and on crutches. Completely stripped the Landy down to the chassis and beyond. Welded on new front and rear outriggers and patched the bits of rusty chassis as I have been finding them. Chopped off the rear cross-member and replaced it with a TDI one. I am in the process of rebuilding it now into a 5 door soft-top (ish)! I know it sounds bonkers with the weather we get here but I want to strip out as much weight as possible because I am changing the 200td engine for a 2.5 NA recon army lump. I plan to be able to repair or replace parts in the field as it were, so turbo's are not my bag. My current plan is to rebuild the body from the chassis up, with series doors at the front so no winders to restrict me. Ive found some nearly new B and C posts and sills off a roof-damaged donor that I can cut and reweld into a good pair. Then I will be cutting the original rear tub back internally to give me a dropped floor and space to put in seats if I want. I dont have any second row doors yet, so I'll be riveting the sides of the tub onto where the doors should be. It'll look a bit like a station wagon but there wont be any door handles at the back. Ive got a wolf desert sand coloured soft top roof which sits higher than the standard civilian rag top so the sticks and bars will need to be lifted, and a rad-haz inner insulation kit to keep me warm in Winter,Spring and Summer, Autumn should be ok!) I have made a hand brake mounting box from an ammo box so it will have a little cubby box in between the seats, the seats will be inboard of the original position and be electrically adjustable. The seat box front will have to be trimmed a bit to let the seat motors pass over it but it will still be fairly standard otherwise. The centre seat box cover will need to be beefed up a little to take the ammo brake box, and holes cut in both to allow the cable through. I have a smaller steering wheel, and a TDCI dashboard which will be trimmed up from the bottom to allow the gear-stick to move freely. The TDCI gear stick is further back and shorter so I will be playing around making a cranked stick for myself. The rest of the dash will be rewired neater and tidier than the original, the fuse box will be under the drivers side seat. You'll be interested I am sure that I've managed to ruin one welder, two grinders and several hand tools in getting this thing cut up. Practically every bolt sheared or needed grinding off. The design of some of the chassis cross members is really daft. The one just forward of the fuel tank looks like it was designed to collect muck and road salt and hold it in place for years out of sight. I will be welding on baffle plates when I have repaired all the rusty bits at each corner. Eric

I lifted my 110's tub up by putting galv'd link plates up through all the upper body mounting holes and attached chain through all of them and over an engine hoist arm set at maximum reach. Lifted it up about 3 feet, just enough to get myself and a welder under the tub to sort out the multitude of rusty holes hidden by the previous owner with filler and oily mud! Because I put in a bulkhead removal frame before I lifted it off it hasnt buckled the tub edges and there is a plank of wood set between the rear tub edges to stop the back folding in. If I could have lifted it a few inches first I would have mounted the chains on the floor which would have given me a few more inches height when lifted My only problem is banging my head repeatedly on the ends of the floor supports every time I get under there. They are set at just the right height to attempt to scalp me. A few more inches would have probably helped but I got lazy when it was already lifted. My sankey trailer came in handy to assemble the new chassis and body parts that will be going on in the next few weeks, so I could work out if I have all the parts I need. I am making a soft top station wagon body from a van hard top. Missing a few angle brackets that were not fitted to the van body, so that was a good move. Amazing how many solutions we can all come up with to the same problem. Eric

bit of heat and a rubber mallet will help shake any seized drums. releasing the brake adjusters wont help till youve unstuck the brake shoes from the drum inner. Eric

I'm doing something similar with a 110 van body, making a station wagon out of it but I'll be leaving the body panels covering where the second row doors would be, riveting them on to the c post outer so it will still look a bit van'ish from the outside. I will put rear doors on it at some time but they are a bit too expensive for the moment to get a good set. I did toy with the idea of getting some series front doors and cutting them down to fit the space but its a bit of a faff. (My Landy will eventually be a 5 door soft top with the rear load space doubling as sleeping quarters and storage.) Working out where to cut is gonna be a bit of a job, and I only have one go at it. Scary stuff! Good luck old son. Eric

Only problem I have with the autodarkening helmet is the darn thing keeps blackening when Im moving my head into position. Any small bump like getting under the rear tub which is up on a winch to weld up the rear crossmember, seems to act like a spark flash and darkens it. Otherwise its a must. Eric

I almost had these done but now I'm going for a full length soft top on my 110. I will be having cameras on the sides to help with visibility. Works out about the same price and I have fresh air when I want it. (Given the British weather!) Eric

Maybe Im a bit slow but to get the NS off, Ive already got the old bulkhead off and scrapped (the local pikeys removed it without me having to ask them), currently still have the front wings on but they get in the way of easy cutting and grinding. Doing all this on my drive under a desert camo tank throwover so sunny weather and no wind so I can mig are good, windy weather and rain put the mockers on a bit because gasless mig welding takes so long with cleaning every few inches and getting a good surface to weld on. If possible I would like to patch the holes in the outrigger but wonder if a patch would be ok for MOT. The hole is on the upper surface, about 3 inches inboard from the bulkhead mounting bolt tube. Looks like the rusty hole was caused by muck accumulating between the top of the outrigger and the bottom of the footwell. Its about 2 inches round and seems solid all around it once the rotten stuff has been ground out. The diagonal support strut is solid. Seems a shame (and a lot of trouble) ro remove it unnecessarily. Eric

cheers guys

HI all, has anyone used rubber applied to steel and aluminium panels to try to stop the two metals corroding together? I am in the process of rebuilding a 110 and all the tub areas (outrigger mounts, rear chassis mount, bump stop mount) that need to be in contact with the chassis and seat belt mounts have corroded so badly they will all need replacing. I have a pot of roof-repair rubber solution that goes on neatly and looks like it would be a good insulating layer between panels. I had thought it would be a good thing to do when I have replaced the tabs and panels to stop this happening again. Another question, my bulkhead outriggers both have holes running from the rear surface, up and over to the other surface underneath where the footwells are mounted. I have removed the N\S one and am in the process of welding on a replacement. The off side hole is much smaller and looks patchable. is it worth patching it or is replacement the best option? I only ask because removing the NS one has taken almost a week of spare time fiddling to get off and cleaned up enough for welding. Doing another one is not a good prospect. Any advice gratefully accepted. Eric

Ive seen some ex-military ex-snatch landrover windscreen and side-window mesh screens on another forum thats would probably stop a pheasant. Probably dice it up for you too if the bird was really travelling. May be a bit of a hammer to crack a nut but they do look cool. ERic

Just get a laser gear puller from Halfords, cat no695510 . Use the three longer hooks supplied with this, it helps to keep it straight. Handy for when you actually need a gear puller too. Bit pricey at £26 but its a stock item so they should have it in your local branch. Second hand ones will work as well as long as all the parts are there. Worked a treat on mine when I took my steering apart for strip down. took about ten minutes to fit and extract the steering wheel, and didnt damage any other parts. Put some wood under the hooks if you want to preserve the wheel, otherwise it digs into the plastic padding. Eric

I'd run a wire from the fuse to the lights before disconnecting anything. If the problem is corrected, rather than disconnect the whole loom, just replace the damaged wire, unless of course you have a replacement loom ready to go. The easiest I have found is to use a trailer light board extension to the rear of the vehicle, then plug in a protected plug to the light loom. that way you have a new set of wires that can be connected easily and you can route it better so you don't get chafing. And you get the correctly rated wire. I have wired in a sankey trailer fuse-box on my 110 so I can add or remove wires as necessary. Eric

HI all, Another small hitch in my 110 soft top conversion story. I originally had a 1988 110 three door van, which I have stripped down to the chassis and am now welding in new cross member, front and rear near side outriggers. Once the welding is done, I will be rebuilding it as a king-cab ish with soft top and desert camo colours. I have managed to get the soft top sticks, side roof panels and all fitments except the strip that goes over the windscreen to secure the front of the soft top canvas. Thinking it would look good on my finished Landy, I bought a sand-coloured Wolf ECM PVC canvas from Withams. So far so good. Next thing, I need to get the windscreen strip sorted out. There is one I have seen on Fleabay for about £70, but I understand this particular strip is for the later pvc type roof with a bead running through the front canvas seam. Since mine doesnt have any bead running through it, I am not sure whether to go ahead and get it and possibly waste £70, or try to find the older style strip with the lock levers fitted. The instruction booklet that comes with the canvas shows a "Ground Plane" plate for antenna-mounting that looks like it sits between the windscreen, and the roll over bar fitted behind the driver. There is a velcro strip on the under surface of the canvas which is supposed to be secured to a corresponding velcro strip on the front edge of the ground plane. So, all you Landy experts and Officianado's, HELP!!!! Do I go for the bead type screen strip, the clamp on variety, or make up a replica ground plane plate and stick it to that?? Any advice gratefully received, Eric

RHD 12v electrics in Landys will have battery box on the nearside, and later tdci have fuse boxes in the off side. Earlier Landys will have a tool box under the driver seat. 24V military vehicles will have the Battery under the driver. LHD vehicles will have these reversed. Snatch Landrovers often have dual 12v/24v with splitters and separate charging/isolating wiring, as will FFR vehicles. Handbrake positions are switched as well, just positioned at the front of the seatbox on the right for RHD, left for LHD. I have brought mine up into the centre cubby box area bolted to the front of an ammo box because I found the original position to low and too far forward (I got serious cramp leaning so far forward to apply the handbrake) Eric

If you are likely to go snorkelling with your baby, I'd put the wires and any connections as high up the body as possible. If you put wires under the body, plastic conduit with marine silicon sealant (better than ordinary silicon from diy stores) will stop water ingress and wire corrosion. If you are gonna stay mostly dry, it doesnt matter where you route it, it will get caked in mud and road salt so again plastic conduit. I have rewired mine with double redundant wiring so if anything starts to cause problems I have a spare wire running along side I can switch to, and plenty of additional wiring for future upgrades. Eric

hi, If its only present when turning right, the vehicle is being thrown more heavily onto the left wheel. wear on wheel bearings and shock absorber is always worse on the left because we have to drive around so many right hand curves and roundabouts in this country. I drove back from bristol after buying a 1988 110 with chunky wheels and it felt like my wheels were coming off every time I turned right. There was a hell of a lot of play in the left hand wheel bearing after I managed to get it home but it was scarey driving up the M4 expecting something to come off. I'd check the left hand wheel bearing and maybe the power steering if you have it. Eric