TheHarv

Ta very much, I will go ahead then Mine came out without a spreader as well - just needed to wiggle it a little bit

Hi all, got a few questions about fitting of a Tractech (Detroit) Soflocker in the rear of a 1995 110 is there a preferred LR (or front-back) orientation? I can't find anything either on the unit or in the instructions to indicate that there is - but I don't want to have to take it all apart again! can anyone confirm the torque specs for the M12x1.75 bolts holding the case halves together? I found a pdf online indicating 98-102 Nm, does that sound right? The original side gears appear to have thin thrust washers between the gear face and the bearing - are these supposed to be transferred over onto the Soflocker? Thanks

you can get the Phillips/Temro 3100087 - however it's going to be 120V, not sure if an equivalent 240V one is available http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/heating_technology/coolant_oil.asp there are also generic ones available over here that go in the lower coolant hose as well as the magnetic oil heaters you stick on the sump

we've had almost no snow here so far this year... but it was -24C when I took the dog out this morning learned not to set the handbrake pretty soon after moving here - did it once in the Subaru but managed to free it just by revving up a bit and dumping the clutch ... made quite a big bang

they were very helpful with my order from overseas too - initial email enquiry responded to + shipping arranged promptly

a bit OT but I'm pretty sure I OVER packed mine the first time I did it I'm convinced it's what cause it to fail again in short order - the grease has nowhere to go as the piston extends and I reckon it popped the boot right off and let the slave fill with cr@p again

Hi yes this is all horribly familiar After trying in vain to get someone to make me the correct UNF-M12 swan neck adapter I ended up just connecting the M12 end of the new NTC9055 flex hose directly into the slave port - I wouldn't contemplate something like that with brake fittings, but clutch pressure is relatively low I think. It's a bit more fiddly to fit without the compression joint at the slave end (i.e. you have to wind the hose into the slave and then attach it to the hard line off the bulkhead). It seemed to work OK and didn't leak but I've had the whole truck off the road for some time so I can't give you a long term report. When I finally put it back together I think I will have another go at making the proper adapter - even if I end up buying the flare tools myself to do it.

I bought a cheap compression tester off ebay which came with the right adapter for the glow plug holes (iirc anything that says it will work on a Merc should work on the Rover engines - M12x1.25?) It was this one I think --> http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item588dbae001 I'm definitely no expert but isn't that rather a lot? my understanding is it should be no more than a wipe of oil on the bolts

at the risk of asking the bleedin obvious have you also removed the actual rear bearing retainer plate?

sill channel I think...

I'm in the middle of swapping my 1.67 to 1.4 - it's more work than it appears On paper, you 'just' need to swap the intermediate cluster and the high range output gear. However in practice you will end up pretty much rebuilding the box because: o the high range output gear is on the far side of the diff assembly, so the whole lot has to come out i.e. front output housing / hi-lo selector assembly / diff lock all off o it's hard getting the high range gear off the shaft without the special tools - and to set the preload once it's all back together o the preload on the intermediate shaft is even worse (collapsible spacer thingy) o the new intermediate gear assembly will come w/o bearings so factor that in (either swapping the ones from the old box or fitting new) o if you also do the crossdrilled input gear you will need a selection of shims available for setting the endfloat on that too Pretty much the only things that don't *have* to come apart are the diff itself, the output flanges/bearings, and the rear housing (although technically you *should* remove and reshim the rear carrier bearing to set the preload with the new output gear). The kit from Ashcrofts is good and Ian A. has been very helpful but if I lived on your side of the pond there is no question I would swap the whole box or at least let Ashcrofts do the ratio u/g install John H. --

The mainshaft bearings that Ashcrofts supplied with my new crossdrilled gear are Fersa 18790/20 if that helps - this is a 20D box. Looking at one of the old cups it is Timken 18720 - I can't check the cone number because I left both cones on the old gear The bearings on the intermediate shaft were Timken X33205 (cone) / Y33205 (cup). I don't know if they were factory originals or replacements. New boxed sets are labelled 33205-92KA1. The bit of the Timken catalog that I have shows NP027538 as a cone with the same bore/width (25mm/22mm) with a note that "NP parts are made for specific applications". I didn't replace the output shaft (ball) bearings so I don't know those sorry. I do have the F+R diff carrier numbers if you need those. I have found Ashcrofts to be very helpful

OK thanks Ralph - maybe I just got unlucky the machine shop managed to get the broken bit out so I will cross my fingers and try again

Desperately trying to get my 110 back together before winter, we already had 1 snowfall here Got the new rear seal in on Sunday, then looked at the clutch cover bolts and decided on some new ones - couldn't really read the markings but went for ISO 10.9 replacements Torquing everything down DRY nice and diagonally last night and BANG sheared one right off - both the 96 (300Tdi) and Brooklands book have the torque spec as 34Nm (or 30-38 Nm) - is that right? I checked several online sources today and 34Nm seems highish. So o what the hell grade/class are these bolts? should I get 12.9? or just re-use the original bolts? o what torque spec to you chaps use? o any threadlocker recommendations? medium strength (Loctite 242) good? Thanks and somewhat cheesed off