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TheHarv

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Everything posted by TheHarv

  1. Ta very much, I will go ahead then Mine came out without a spreader as well - just needed to wiggle it a little bit
  2. Hi all, got a few questions about fitting of a Tractech (Detroit) Soflocker in the rear of a 1995 110 is there a preferred LR (or front-back) orientation? I can't find anything either on the unit or in the instructions to indicate that there is - but I don't want to have to take it all apart again! can anyone confirm the torque specs for the M12x1.75 bolts holding the case halves together? I found a pdf online indicating 98-102 Nm, does that sound right? The original side gears appear to have thin thrust washers between the gear face and the bearing - are these supposed to be transferred over onto the Soflocker? Thanks
  3. you can get the Phillips/Temro 3100087 - however it's going to be 120V, not sure if an equivalent 240V one is available http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/heating_technology/coolant_oil.asp there are also generic ones available over here that go in the lower coolant hose as well as the magnetic oil heaters you stick on the sump
  4. we've had almost no snow here so far this year... but it was -24C when I took the dog out this morning learned not to set the handbrake pretty soon after moving here - did it once in the Subaru but managed to free it just by revving up a bit and dumping the clutch ... made quite a big bang
  5. they were very helpful with my order from overseas too - initial email enquiry responded to + shipping arranged promptly
  6. a bit OT but I'm pretty sure I OVER packed mine the first time I did it I'm convinced it's what cause it to fail again in short order - the grease has nowhere to go as the piston extends and I reckon it popped the boot right off and let the slave fill with cr@p again
  7. Hi yes this is all horribly familiar After trying in vain to get someone to make me the correct UNF-M12 swan neck adapter I ended up just connecting the M12 end of the new NTC9055 flex hose directly into the slave port - I wouldn't contemplate something like that with brake fittings, but clutch pressure is relatively low I think. It's a bit more fiddly to fit without the compression joint at the slave end (i.e. you have to wind the hose into the slave and then attach it to the hard line off the bulkhead). It seemed to work OK and didn't leak but I've had the whole truck off the road for some time so I can't give you a long term report. When I finally put it back together I think I will have another go at making the proper adapter - even if I end up buying the flare tools myself to do it.
  8. I bought a cheap compression tester off ebay which came with the right adapter for the glow plug holes (iirc anything that says it will work on a Merc should work on the Rover engines - M12x1.25?) It was this one I think --> http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item588dbae001 I'm definitely no expert but isn't that rather a lot? my understanding is it should be no more than a wipe of oil on the bolts
  9. at the risk of asking the bleedin obvious have you also removed the actual rear bearing retainer plate?
  10. I'm in the middle of swapping my 1.67 to 1.4 - it's more work than it appears On paper, you 'just' need to swap the intermediate cluster and the high range output gear. However in practice you will end up pretty much rebuilding the box because: o the high range output gear is on the far side of the diff assembly, so the whole lot has to come out i.e. front output housing / hi-lo selector assembly / diff lock all off o it's hard getting the high range gear off the shaft without the special tools - and to set the preload once it's all back together o the preload on the intermediate shaft is even worse (collapsible spacer thingy) o the new intermediate gear assembly will come w/o bearings so factor that in (either swapping the ones from the old box or fitting new) o if you also do the crossdrilled input gear you will need a selection of shims available for setting the endfloat on that too Pretty much the only things that don't *have* to come apart are the diff itself, the output flanges/bearings, and the rear housing (although technically you *should* remove and reshim the rear carrier bearing to set the preload with the new output gear). The kit from Ashcrofts is good and Ian A. has been very helpful but if I lived on your side of the pond there is no question I would swap the whole box or at least let Ashcrofts do the ratio u/g install John H. --
  11. The mainshaft bearings that Ashcrofts supplied with my new crossdrilled gear are Fersa 18790/20 if that helps - this is a 20D box. Looking at one of the old cups it is Timken 18720 - I can't check the cone number because I left both cones on the old gear The bearings on the intermediate shaft were Timken X33205 (cone) / Y33205 (cup). I don't know if they were factory originals or replacements. New boxed sets are labelled 33205-92KA1. The bit of the Timken catalog that I have shows NP027538 as a cone with the same bore/width (25mm/22mm) with a note that "NP parts are made for specific applications". I didn't replace the output shaft (ball) bearings so I don't know those sorry. I do have the F+R diff carrier numbers if you need those. I have found Ashcrofts to be very helpful
  12. OK thanks Ralph - maybe I just got unlucky the machine shop managed to get the broken bit out so I will cross my fingers and try again
  13. Desperately trying to get my 110 back together before winter, we already had 1 snowfall here Got the new rear seal in on Sunday, then looked at the clutch cover bolts and decided on some new ones - couldn't really read the markings but went for ISO 10.9 replacements Torquing everything down DRY nice and diagonally last night and BANG sheared one right off - both the 96 (300Tdi) and Brooklands book have the torque spec as 34Nm (or 30-38 Nm) - is that right? I checked several online sources today and 34Nm seems highish. So o what the hell grade/class are these bolts? should I get 12.9? or just re-use the original bolts? o what torque spec to you chaps use? o any threadlocker recommendations? medium strength (Loctite 242) good? Thanks and somewhat cheesed off
  14. I've used both Paddocks and Craddocks - even had a pair of side windows off Craddocks ebay site that shipped pretty reasonably However it seems like shipping has got more expensive recently (or maybe it just seems more in GBP because of the exchange rate). The thing that *really* bugs me about some UK suppliers (and one of the other big NA suppliers recently) is waiting a week in anticipation and finding... the dreaded blue box. The cost of international shipping makes the difference between genuine and pattern parts not worth the savings imo - I haven't used them yet but my next parts order will probably be with Brit-Car because they are *clear* about genuine vs OEM vs pattern For engine parts I go straight to Turner Engineering now - they are very easy to deal with and are experienced in shipping anywhere in the world - even shipped head parts direct to the machine shop for me one time - also they fully support the 2.5NA which is pretty much extinct as far as the regular UK suppliers are concerned. Ashcrofts similarly for transmission parts (although I recently got a clutch from Rovers North and they were very helpful). For used bits and bobs there is also Mike at Britannica Restorations in Sherbrooke Quebec and Michael Foers in Ontario who advertises on LRX sometimes (got my truck cab from him) Good luck John H.
  15. hmm I wonder if the battery is on its last legs and there's not enough juice for the starter until AFTER the glowplugs time out?
  16. Bill I'm a complete newb but you'll find some VERY knowledgable (and helpful) folks on this board - it's been a godsend for me
  17. Sounds like mine... ... ... - replaced the fuel filter and sedimentor AND drained dubious fuel out of the tank - had injectors cleaned and serviced - replaced timing belt and tensioner and set up injector pump timing - finally found out the headgasket was blown between #2/#3 and the pushrod holes However unless smoke / hard starting leads you to suspect poor compression I'd do as Uncle Les says and check the easy stuff first - might want to add checking the injector pump timing (pins in the flywheel slot and inj pump hole) cos I think they sometimes come over retarded from BATUS (or in case the PO played with it for the veg oil) - in fact imo you should be able to advance it slightly past the factory setting, I did mine 'by ear' until it sounds a bit clacky at cold idle but quiets down warm idle. Good luck.
  18. Ian thanks again for your help - I have now managed to remove it using your suggestions above - got a new one on hold for me at the local shop Aragorn apologies for hijacking your thread - mods feel free to clean up as apropriate
  19. Many thanks Ian, unfortunately I'm over in Canada - else I'd have brought it to you in the first place (or just swapped a complete 1.4 box). I'm from E. Herts originally though, my grandad apprenticed as an ag eng somewhere in Beds I think I'll give it another go using your tips -I don't have a hydraulic press but I think I can get access to one, if it's OK to press/pull on the hi-range gear then I have a fairly tame mechanic just up the road who can probably do that for me. I just had him do all my suspension bushes. Do you happen to know the Timken or SKF equivalent for that one btw? I ordered new i/p gear bearings from you but I didn't think to order this one - I can probably get it locally if I know the number
  20. Ah very timely Ian I am in the middle of trying to diy fit one of your ratio upgrade kits (great service from your folks btw) and am stuck at the point of removing the bearing off the diff shaft. I was able to get the nut off with a homemade tool but there seems to be no way to get any kind of puller in between the bearing and the hi-range gear bush. I notice the correct LRT appears to clamp around the bearing cone? I have one of the separators as described above but the biggest one I can find locally (3in) seems to be too small: Do you think this will be doable if I can get my hands on a 4in separator? It seems like it would need a *very* sharp knife edge to get between the bearing and the bush. My other option is to try pulling the hi-range gear + bearing off as one with a 3-leg TBH I am about to throw in the towel and take the whole thing down to the dealer - although I'm not sure even they have the LRT-xx-xx to do this Thanks and best regards John H. --
  21. I have mine in pieces on the bench right now and I drifted the front bearing track out last night - I'm impressed anyone could pry it out through the lower cover, although there are a couple of voids below the track where you could get a tool/puller in only one of them will be get-at-able. I'm a wuss about prying on alloy housings anyway. I'm no expert but my take would be EITHER take the box off (it's really not many more bolts than the bottom cover - just the 6 or 7 bolts to the mainbox plus the props) and do it by the book OR if the bearings look OK swap the old cones onto the new gear and leave the old tracks/shimming in place Here's a page I came across with some pics and discussion - it has a link to a small portion of the overhaul manual (covering just the i/p gear fitting and setup) but you can find the whole thing in the usual places http://www.geoffrey-...nsfer/index.htm Good luck
  22. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crower_six_stroke
  23. So one thing leads to another and since I have the box off I'm replacing the clutch (130/HD one going in) - thought I should at least pull the flywheel off and inspect the rear seal - I need some help identifying whether it is leaking or not There is some claggy dirt around the edge (from about 5 o'clock to 10 o'clock in the pic) Here it is after cleaning up a bit 2 weeks lead time to get one from the local dealer over here so I am thinking of ordering the 'OE' version from Brit-Car - anyone have experience with these? are they the real deal Dowty items? It is a 2.5 NA diesel Thanks - John H. --
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