Chriso

Thanks - learn something everyday (sorry for off topic)

Sorry - bit thick here! Just to clarify Western's valid points: Does OME stand for Original Manufacturer's Equipment or Old Man Emu suspension? I suspect the former?

Thank you - yes that looks right!

Dear Forum, My mate has just puchased a SWB series 3 which is on an A plate. My question relates to the front axle drive flanges: I had expected to see the usual floating half shafts with splined drive flanges, a castleated nut with split pin and dust cap. Instead there is only what I can describe as a similar arrangement to the rear axle of a 90 or disco/RR with the drive flange being integral with the half shaft. I have never seen this before. Was it a standard fit on late series 3s and can free wheeling hubs be fitted? Many thanks Chris.

Dear Western, thank you for taking the time and trouble to scan and post the Defender hand book page. That should be the definitive answer, however, I do think that there is a degree of ambiguity in the LR literature. I have the Defender: A Land Rover Guide publication (fresh form the dealer) and it states; "...maximum of 75 kg including the roof rack." It goes on, "...being the lightest racks, have the greatest weight carrying capability within the 75 kg recommendation." Thanks too to other respondees, I appreciate your trouble, Best wishes Chris.

Thanks for the replies. I think that a trip to the weigh bridge is in order for us. Some initial calcs on the roofrack have shown it is at capacity (75kg) before loading. Brownchurch have confirmed that the rack is 40kg on leaving the factory. Jason - I agree that LRs make poor people carriers. The next vehicle may be a minibus as you suggest. Best wishes Chris.

Thanks Jason for the thought. I should have said that the issue of a trailer has been investigated, but is containdicated with ambulance status, blue lights and insurance. Best wishes Chris.

Dear Forum, The mountain rescue team of which I am a member has declared to defra that it is prepared to travel out of area (North wales) to assist national flooding events. Our logistical challenge is to get 7 team members, their water PPE and rescue kit to the incident. Currently we have two 130 station wagon defender TD5s which are fitted with roof racks. The question is can we deploy in one vehicle, and leave the other in the valley for "core business?" I am asking this forum with; Help to deturmine the unladen weight of the roof rack. We also put all manor of things up there including a spare wheel, signage, light bars and spot lamps. Am I correct in thinking that we could be very close to the 75kg max before anything goes up there? Also, I am guessing that as LR did not make this body configuration that there will be no kerb weight? If I assume the GVW for a 130 and take away the kerb weight (as measured on a weigh bridge) that would be a realistic payload? Thanks in anticipation Chris.

Remarkably on a LR forum I too would like to add weight to the Subaru option. I replaced my disco with a Forester, and its just a fantastic little car. The build quality is fantastic. All of the fasteners are plated and come apart easily (even at the rear when fitting a tow bar), and the body seems to be very well corrosion protected. Driving is a unique experience, the flat 4 boxer is entirely vibration free and it runs like a watch. The steering, brakes and suspension triad is very impressive. On the downside? Wheel bearings do not last very long, but that is about it. Excels in the snow too BTW. Cheers Chris.

Hello Steve, I guess that you mean the two large nuts that hold the hub onto the axle? Others may have a better, or easier method. I tighten the inner nut up progressively while spinning the wheel to settle the bearing. Eventually the wheel will start to become difficult to turn as the taper bearings become pre-loaded. At this point, back off the nut about 1/4 turn and check the wheel spins freely. Also take hold of the wheel at the 12 and 6 O'Clock position and rock back and forth. There should be a minute amount of movement. Then pop on the tab washer and tighten up the second nut and bend the tab over both nuts (forward and back). Perhaps Les has already dealt with this in one of his definitaive acrchive articles. Happy new year all! Chris.

Thanks Blippie for a great response!

Hi All, I currently run a Disco 1 but am considering a Freelander as my next car. Would you be kind enough to answer some noobie questions? Do they all have traction control, or is it spec dependent? Which model year did LR change the differential ratios to be more closely matched front and rear? Did this modification make life easier for the drivetrain? People rave about the BMW TD4, but what about the earlier diesel, any specific issues? Can I fit cup holders to pre-facelift models? (kids and trips!) Thank you in anticipation. Chris.

Hi, I have noticed that the front driver's side tyre on my 300 tdi discovery is wearing badly on the inside. The passenger side tyre is fine with even wear. I have had the tracking done recently, but had to nip up the wheel bearings. Can too much play in a WB cause this effect? Thanks Chris.

Hello, I fitted EBC drilled and slotted discs with green stuff pads to the front of my 300 tdi. I cannot fault the discs, they are of good quality and are wearing well. The pads were a different story. Although they braked well, they rattled in the calipers when not braking. I eventually changed to genuine parts pads which have a rubber backing, NOT present on the green stuff pads. Perhaps that is why they feel so different? Anyway I will not touch green stuff pads again. Chris.

Is there a Land Rover made cast pulley as fitted to Military Wolf spec 300 tdi? If so is it a better unit than the bearmach unit?

Hi All, I removed my front propshaft today (300 tdi) and found the sliding joint to be very stiff. I marked and pulled the two halves apart and found a horrid brown sludgy mess. I cleaned up the splines and had hoped to re-grease and reassemble, however I have found that the splines are coated in what I can only describe as plastic which is brittle and flaking off. That can't be right? Is there a coating on the splines? Anyway the two halves will not slide nicely, so £50 odd quid from paddocks would seem to be the way forward. Thanks Chris.

Hi, Just guessing here, the rumbling is similar to big end bearings showing signs of wear. Perhaps it disapeares when the enigine is warm due to oil pressure and machine tollerances. Is it a V8? What is the milage and service history like? Best wishes Chris.

Dear All, I have driven a friend's Rangy classic with auto box and ETC off road and been really impressed with it. Combined with air suspension the Rangy seems to drive effortlessly where my Disco Manual struggles. Just a question really: If the ETC progressively and instantly prevents wheel spin by braking that wheel, when will the VC ever lock up? Disco 2s had no (or optional) locking centre diff so effective was the ETC. Is it because the classic only has two channel ETC? If so what about the design of the P38a? Thank you Chris.

Hello, I do not have a TD5, but could this be the cylone oil filter that separates fine particules from the engine oil? This would fit in with the speed related affect described. Cheers Chris.

I have been through this process and sympathise completely! Most folk argue that fitting HD springs is a sensible upgrade as it improves cornering. Agreed, but at the cost of comfort as your fillings testify. As you do not want lift, and you do not carry passengers (weight), I would suggest factory fit standard springs with rubber bushes and gas dampers. This will be really compliant (especially without ant roll cars) and feel better both on and off road. The range rover concept of the 1970s was based on soft springs for articulation. Standard disco springs are a development of this as they are duel rated. There are 9 coils, six of which are standard spec and the tightly wound three are heavy duty. I used to work in a kids home, and we had a disco with this suspension set up. It coped with towing a RIB, laning on the strata florida, motorway work and carrying canoes on the roof. All comfortably! ...how many worms are left in that tin?

Dear All, Just thought that I would update and close the thread. We had intended tho remove the transmission by first removing the transfer box and then the R380 as the two pieces are more manageable. We ran into problems however when we encountered a fastner that had been rounded off Tim took the R380 to LEGS of Oswestry for an exchange item and while he was there chatted to the guys about the problems he had experienced. To cut a long story short, it would appear that a TD5 slave cylinder push rod had been installed in error by a previous owner/technician. LEGS supplied a 300TDi one which is significantly shorter (see side by side photo). The theory is that this push rod has caused the clutch to be partially held off constantly. This has broken the spigott bearing up and damaged the first motion input bearing. Fingers crossed that this is all OK now. Well spotted LEGS too! Best wishes Chris.

Hello, Do as Python says, then remove the inspection cover from the rear of the transfer box. Take a look at the mainshaft splines inside the input gear. This is a common source of the backlash and driveline shunt that you describe. It was fixed later by the factory by cross drilling the input gear so allowing oil onto the splines. My vehicle had a factory fitted splash plate, but that seems to be a rare random addition. If you have significant backlash here, then ring Mr Ashcroft... Best wishes Chris.

Good thought Fridge Freezer, thanks. However the gearbox has been refilled with Difflock's evolution MTF. Sadly no longer available.

Thank you guys, a great response as always. Taking into consideration the replies on this thread, I have just driven the vehicle. When in neutral, with the engine running there is a swooshing sound from the front end of the gearbox. I am guessing, as others on the forum have suggested, that this is a damaged input shaft bearing. When I put my foot on the clutch, the noise disapeares instanly (input shaft stationary - no noise). Also I figure that the spiggot bearing is OK as it is not dragging the input shaft around. Also I am guessing that the input shaft splines are OK as the clutch disengages successfully. If the input shaft is running out of true, there will be vibrations at speed in all gears, right? All this would fit with an incompetently installed transmission, perhaps left to hang while they struggled to engage the studs. All this fits together when considered in the context of experiences detailed on the thread. I replaced an input shaft gear on my old 11A gearbox and it was very straightforward. Are there any pitfals with the R380? Thanks once again Chris.

Hi again! Tim took his Disco to Lixtoll Land Rover and they confirmed that the clutch had burned out. They replaced the friction disc and pressure plate and slave cylinder. However, further tales of woe! Tim phoned on the way back south reporting vibrations and a difficulty in enaging gears. He describes a "tension in the box" windup perhaps? I guess that the root cause of premature clutch failure must lie in the R380. The tyres are all the same size, diff lock is out and I guess that front and rear diffs are of the same ratio. The Disco is now at my house and I wonder does anyone have any advice or experience to share before I pull the transmission apart? Thanks Chris.