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toenden

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About toenden

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    Denmark

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  1. I have done it with no illl sideaffects. Hasn't stopped the galvcorrosion totally though... ๐Ÿ˜  /mads
  2. Nice. 4 doors and what appears to be a cage beside the driver! /Mads
  3. Hi Sรธren, If this doesn't turn out well, and you want to Try if a hp22 Will fit, I have One on a pallet from a 3,9 just down the road from you. I dont Know if it works, but atleast the case does for a mockup ๐Ÿ™‚ /Mads
  4. Hi. I have used a tube from a traktor rear tire fixed by a couple og self tapping screws. The tube has some curve and is easy to adjust. Mine goes all the way to the mudflap, so no need for hosing down at all @FridgeFreezer (not even on my challenge truck which do see Everything...) /Mads
  5. Hi Sigi, Have you got a companyname or even better a link to a website for this "polish chassis"? /Mads
  6. This got me thinking, can leaving the dowelbolt out and turning the swivel ad fรฅr as it goes, be a good way to castorcorrect when lifting the suspension? /Mads
  7. Hi all. When changing diff on a 4-post ramp, I tend to leave the wheels on and undo the swivel. The swivel and wheel balance quite well and are ok easy to extract the 30mm or so, and the diff han be removed. Last time I changed swivels (to "new" old ones), I found that when all the bolts were done almost up, there were quite some slag in the holes still, so a bit of castercorrection can be done here. (I put them "in the middle") ๐Ÿ™‚ /Mads
  8. Nice pictures! I do, however, not recall my diff being so photographic... more kind of brown/muddy ๐Ÿ˜‡ Well done. /Mads
  9. Hi. What do you mean by "all propshafts turn"? Only one or none should be turning when stationary and no difflock. Try to put it in gear and release the clutch with no difflock engage. If no forward motion, then lightly engage the handbrake, if you get forward motion, then it is the rearaxle if not, the have a look at the front. /Mads
  10. Hi mike, If all the pipes are left connected, the engine will hang ok by its own. Probably not the right way to do it, but it works in a hurry and the engine seems to be in OK balance. Last time i even put the main boks on aswell, but it did hang a bit on an incline then... (only had one gearboxhoist...) /Mads
  11. And the great ting about said dash light is, that it actually origins from the UNPROTECTED side of the fusebox, for some great reason... ask me how I know aswell... /Mads
  12. I have with luck used a standard 300 tdi intercooler/radiator setup. The only thing that needs doing is to cut the, errm passenger side to you guys, top radiator Mount, and og is in to pieces of pipe, one 90 degree elbow and two straight later and you are off!! Very easy, and gives the added bonus og even more ultra low down torque. ๐Ÿ˜Ž /Mads
  13. Not to make you uncomfortable, but if a shell had rotated, then the oillight might not "see" a problem as it doesn't loose preasure, it just builds it up on the rotated shells bagside? /Mads
  14. Could the non thermostat approach not work nicely combined with a water to oil heatexchanger? That way your gearboxoil would always be sort of the right temp? /mads
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