NegevLandRover

Happy to say that the jury rig worked and after taking the original quick release off the filter I managed to put a bit of rubber fuel line on the filter exit and then onto the original plastic fuel line and all seems to be holding well.

I will try to patch the pipe tomorrow, everything has been closed for new year here so no where to get the right pipe, and will post a result. On closer inspection there is a junction on the chasis before the tank so thankfully no need to go back as far as the tank.

One of our LR3s, 2005 TDV6 - 2.7 Diesel, has developed a fuel leak. On close inspection looks like the fuel return pipe from the main fuel filter (rear of the engine bay attached to the chassis below/in front of right hand footwell) back to the tank has broken where the pipe conects to the release joint to the filter. The break is right on the angle so 'bridging' with a piece of rubber pipe is not an option. Has anyone reapired this by taking the joint off the filter pipe and putting a rubber pipe instead and then that pipe to the original plastic fuel line ? I belive pressure in this pipe is low so cannot foresee pressure issues but....

Can you give more info on when it overheats ? From the get go ? On long hills ? When you open the expansion tank is there lots of pressure there ? Is there by any chance engine oil in the expansion tank ?

LR3 third row headrest will not click in the raised position - anyone fixed this ? The button is there and goes in and out but the mechanism inside seems to be 'locked' in the disengage/open position.

Disco 2 TD5. The lower bolt between the transfer and gearbox will not tighten. I guess that the 'female' thread has gone as that is likely the softer side. There is a leak of transfer oil so needs to be sorted. Anyone got some ideas - thinking about using a slightly thicker (not longer as the cogs are on the other side) bolt. Can one place a helicoil without taking them apart ? Adam

hyper-difflock, hyper-diff, hyperflange.... you get the drift (scuse the pun)

hyper-lock

Long, and sad, story but could have been much much worse. My son drowned the Disco 2 in a flooded wadi filled with flash flood water. Thankfuly he and his girlfriend survived the ordeal but only thanks to a heroic rescue from the air and river bank. A few hours later I manged to pull the drenched Disco out with the trusty Defender. Following morning turned the engine by hand - not seized so good start. Emptied out the air box, pipes etc and fired the engine - started quickly and after running a little rough smothed out. Every time we reved up the engine cut and then would not start for a couple of minutes. Main computer out, opened, dried and cleaned and that was sorted. Then found that the gear box was not working (auto) just 3rd and reverse. Took the gearbox computer out from under the seat and cleaned and dried that out and that sorted the gearbox out. Now have to get all the mud and water out from the interior - water was upto the base of the front seats. And this is where I need your help - how can I best dry and clean out the interior which is full of fine silt and water ?

IMHO 186 K is not impressive at all, I have one engine with 800 K another with 480 K and a third with 256 K all with no re-builds over those distances. All work looong hours off road so the time those engines took to accumulate that mileage makes it even more impressive. Properly cared for and serviced the 300 tdi lasts along time. I would bet on a faulty injector being the cause.

In our parts where it gets quite hot we add an after market digital industrial thermometer that sits on the cylinder head and gives us an extra reference. These are very sensitive devices and show centigrade by centigrade variations in real time. Mine has saved the day on more than one ocasion once when the main belt gave way on a highway where other indicators such as failure of pas pump did not come in to play. In most cases by the time standard coolant indicators register over heating the cylinder head has already sustained damage. We also add a buzzer that self activates at 106 so even if you are day dreaming you notice.Highly recomended add on ! Adam

Does anyone know the Bosch number for this part ? The LR number is err 3337.

When I e-mailed them they sent a reply saying that they do not re-furbish. Maybe this is because I am not a UK resident ?

Steve, thanks for that. Any chances they have some lying around down under ? I have 2 brothers in your parts that could source and send if they knew where.

Hi Ralph, I too saw that Turner re-conditions and e-mailed them before posting here and they replied almost imediately saying that they do not re-condition these. Guess I'll have to continue searching and pray that the LR Gods help. Adam

I know this is an old issue and cannot find any recent info. Does any one here know where I can source an ERR 3337 injector for a 3oo TDI EDC - this is the no 4 injector with the electic wire ? TIA Adam

Thanks all. Managed to get a pair of brake shoes from the local JCB importer. Did get them resurfaced twice but that was a complete waste of time as the material they used was obviously not the right stuff and they got the thickness completly wrong.

I need a new pair of brake shoes for my Xeng hand brake. Shipping from Xeng is not really cost effective and IRC one can buy them from JCB or Bobcat or similar ? Can anyone tell me who and the part number ??

I need some ideas on what might be causing the following: 1. When starting out the gearbox, automatic, changes from 1st to second no prblems but when going from 2nd to 3rd it seems to change back to 2nd or possibly slip (neutral) for a second or two and then back into 3rd and from 3rd to D with no problems. Gear fluid is fine - right type and level. The box is a reconditioned one that worked fine for 7 months (of course it had a 6 month warantee). Flushed the gearbox twice and refilled with good oil. Also worth noting that when cold the gearbox takes a km or 2 before it cahnges out from 1st to second but after that, and saving the 2 to 3, glitch seems to be fine. 2. Every now and again the engine simply looses power for a heartbeat and then recovers. The wiring looks fine, the battery conections and earths are all good, the diesel is fine and filter full. This usually happens when cruising or in iddle. Cannot seem to link this to specific RPM or gear or speed etc. TIA

Friend who has a TD5 has had some problems. It sprang coolant leaks over a short period starting with the coolant pump flange seal, then the cabin heater element then the radiator. The silly garage just fixed one after the other without realising that it was obviously building up pressure - probably from a cylinder head gaskit or worse a crack in the cylinder head itself. Eventually, after having their noses rubbed in it, the garage wanted to take off the cylinder head, check and fill it and then replace the gaskit. At this point some other garage, approached for a second opinion, said that tightening the cylinder head bolts would solve the problem. This is a 11 year old Defender with original and untouched cylinder head/gaskit so no reasion for there to be any slack in the bolts. The second garage did tighten the bolts and the problem now seems to be solved in that there is no noticeable pressure build up in the system and coolant level is stable and no more leaks. Questions are: 1. Has anyone ever heard of this being a solution for such a problem ? 2. Now that it has been done is there any point is taking the cylinder head off or should he just wait untill this 'repair' wears out ? TIA Adam

One misake that drivers crossing flowing water make is watching the water as they drive which causes them to subconciously drive down stream as therir eye is fixed on the flow. When crossing flowing water, especially wide espanses, it is always a good idea to fix your eye on a staionary object on the far side of the water such as where the road comes in view on the water's edge. Once you are in ther is little point looking at what is under your nose as it is covered in water anyway and you are commited one way or another. In these parts flash floods are very muddy and there is often floatsman on the surface and we often get people missing the ford as they slowly vere off course downstream not because of the power of the flow but just because they "kept their eye on the road/water".

Some answers to above posts: Corugations in the dirt roads are common in this area and the day that they worked loose was a rough day with alot of technical bits and lots of fairly fast dry rocky dirt trails. I do us a thread die (I think that is the term ?) on a drill to clean the threads and then a healthy load of break cleaner and compressed air. I did try using washers that have rough/serrated surfaces either side but they did not help. Tried using loads or torque but no use - this time I used the 65 Nm setting, fingers crossed. Used to have the spring washers but those went long ago. Does anyone else here have a Detroit on the rear axle and if so do they also have the same problem ? I am running another 300 TDI + a Disco 1 with no after market locks and they have no issues with the flange bolts. All three are wearing disco rims so even when the bolts come out I don't loose drive - one of the big advantages of the disco rims. Adam

The bolts on the rear axle flange keep comming loose - possibly something to do with the Detroit locker I have ? Any other ideas as to why this might happen, repeatedly, will be most welcome. Locktite does not solve the problem and new ones (proper LR flange bolts with the blue factory loctitework) work loose in a couple of months to. Also can someone please tell me the torque to which the new ones should be fitted ? TIA

Freezing is a rare problem in these parts but for cleaning I add a little vinegar (half a cup to a filling) to the water - it cleans the pipes and nozzle and wipes away very well. Not sure what it does to the paint.

I work part time for a local company that provides security, tracking and recovery services for car security and the bottom line is that if the thief knows it is there he can normaly get rid of it before the car can be traced/recovered. The thing is that these devices are pretty standard and their placement in different cars is pretty standard too and the thiefs know where to look and what to do. There are systems that have a backup that often helps in that the thieves are often not aware of the backup and do not look for it. I gave up on the tracking option and opted for various things such as wheel locks and pedal locks - ie. I try and make my LR's less "available" than the guys next door hoping that the potential thief will choose easier pickigs.