NegevLandRover

Sorry - I meant to differntiate between the milometer and the tripmeter - the one that counts the total rather then teh one that can be zeroed and only goes as high as 999.9 Western - I did tap it and did another 200 kms since but no joy. I will try and take it out and do as you suggest regarding screws and drums etc. Thanks, Adam

There I was trundling down the road yesterday when the milometer went past the 899,999 km mark and got stuck before the 900,000 came up. The odometer still works so the cable is fine so I think the fact that all the numbers all turned together was just to much for the old girl. I would really love to keep the milometer working rather than swap it out so if anyone can help me fix this I will be very happy indeed. The whole display is sort of diagonal with the 9 being lowest (just peaking up from the bottom of the window) and the last zero being in the right place. This is a 1994 200 TDI now running a 300 TDI but the instruments are the original ones. TIA Adam

Hi there, has anyone found forward facing seats for the rear seats in a Disco 1 - similar to those in Disco 2s which I know do not fit in a Disco 1 TIA

Both my 300 TDIs are running helicoils in the middle of the cylinder head - don't know why it is always that one that lets go but it is. Brilliant invention that bit of kit - helicoil that is.

Took one of the cylinder heads of and found no rings - they have "evaporated". Will try and source some new rings. At least the LR is now working again - untill the next break down anyway. Adam

Thanks for that - I'll get started in the morning. I hope I can find the parts. It's one of those weeks - one of my LRs had two electric fires and is in pieces while we try and figure out what led to what and why. At the moment more questions than answers and a whole lot of damage to prove it all. It never rains - it just poors !!! Adam

Yes it is blowing air out of the filler hole. The pressure gauge shows that it is reaching full pressure and I don't think it is taking longer than normal - not alot longer anyway.

No hiss. Even when empty it will not come on for more than a second or two. After refilling with oil and getting it to run and then leaving it a few days it seems better but the air comming out of the tank has a deffinite smell of oil. Adam

I think my 220V compressor, in the garage for LR related things,has partialy ceased after running dry (don't ask). The oil tank was pretty much empty and when I switch it on it turns over a couple of times and then stops and then the overload switch switches it off. If I persevere I can eventually get it going (switch it on and off several times untill it builds up momentum)but as soon as it reaches a full tank and switches off it refuses to start again - same symptoms as when I first switch it on. Is this easily repaired ? What will I need - piston rings, seals ?? Any advice would be much appreciated. TIA Adam

Over the past couple of weeks I have had some problems, which came and went, starting one of my 300 TDIs. Yesterday the problem escelated: 1. after a long drive could not turn engine off - upper left fuse out (main fuse in fuse box) and engine off. 2. cannot restart the old bird - YES, even with the fuse back in 3. With fuse back in apparent short circuit between the circuits of upper left 2nd and upper left 3rd fuses. After a couple of hours digging behind the dash I found that there has been a small electric fire which started where the mobile phone was hooked into the positive feed from the switch to the main loom (does this make sense ? - a thick white wire that leaves the rear end of the starting switch and heads back into the main wiring loom. The original wire is, as far as I can tell undamaged but all the added on bits had melted/burnt. I cleaned up and replaced what I could, put it all back together but could not get the switch to start the engine. When I took the +itve from the relay for the pre-heater coils directly to the stop solenoid on the pump then the engine started/switced off perfectly so figure that the stwitch is not sending the +itve to the stop solenoid ?? Still have a short circuit between the circuits of fuses number 2 and 3 top left of fuse box. Then I found that the switch for the hazards is playing up and when it is pushed the whole electric system dies - diconected the hazard switch and all back to normal. Is a malfunction of the hazard switch likely to cause such a huge crash ??? I did not rewire the +tive from the switch as it was cold and wet and I was tired so do not know if the hazard switch was the culprit before repositioning the +itve feed to the stop solenoid. Could this be the cause of the short circuit between the two fused circuits ? Questions are: 1. What is the thick white wire that leaves the rear part of the starting switch towards the main loom ? 2. Is there a way of replacing the main loom without tearing the car apart? 3. Is a malfunction of the hazard switch really so cardinal ? TIA Adam

Thanks guys - it is a single speed MM - older. It is dark and cold outside so it will have to wait abit. In the morning I will fool around with it.

Thanks Steve - can you explain the bit about the valve please. I take it you mean the small lever that should allow the free spool ? If the free spool does not work, and it does not, and all the cogs etc look fine any ideas why it is not free spooling ? Adam

I have a hydraulic Mile Marker 10'000 lb winch on my Defender. The motor is on the left side (if it makes a difference and I think it must - you can mount the motor either side). So should the rope (plasma) start under the drum or over the drum ?? At the moment the rope starts over the drum and the winch works fine but has no free spool and after taking it apart and putting it back together I "suddenly" figured that the free spool might work if the rope went the other way around - from the bottom up. TIA Adam

My M8 went to the main stealer in the country last week and parked in the forecourt while he went in to get a part. When he came out it was only to find that some one had nicked the top of his Safari Snorkel. While he was working for/with me yesterday I said that leaving the top open to the heavens is not a good idea and told him to come round and I would improvise a top untill he could source a new one. Today he came by and before putting on a top I thought I would use the opportunity to make sure that the snorkel was sealed properly and put my hand over the top while the engine was running - it did not even change rythm, floored the accelerator and still no difference. Found out that the pipe from the snorkel base to the air filter has more holes than a sieve but all on the hidden bottom part of the pipe. So, check your snorkel every now and again - simple to do and might save you a fortune. Adam

Thanks all for the advice. At the moment we are still on call but no deploy orders. Most of the work is for the aircraft and I honestly can not see any work for us SAR types as we aare more versed in alpine and real search rather than fire. That said as I am a paramedic I may have to go and boost the ambulance services abit to give them a rest but that will be without the LR.

National emergency here with the biggest and worst forest fire ever and probably 60 or so dead and others missing so I am likely to spend part of the next few days helping in the SAR efforts but since I live in a desert I don't have any experience with this kind of operation. So any ideas on how to help the old LR survive the hot smokey and dusty conditions (hot and dusty I can handle but the smoke is going to be new) I am likely to be operating in would be wellcome. This is a 300 TDI with a snorkel, rear Detroit, brand new tyres (sob)- I can see this is going to be an expensive outing. Any advice most wellcome. Adam

Si - thanks for that. My M8 picked up a couple of sets from you at a LR fair in the UK a couple of months ago but has miss placed them. He is sure that they will turn up but if he does not find them soon I will purchase another set from you. Any chance of you upgrading the brake to include a grease nipple on those bushes ? Is it doable ? Would a regular squirt of WD40 or silicon spray like MTB chain lube suffice ? Thanks, Adam

Just spent a couple of hours looking for posts on repair of rust in a 1994 200 tdi footwell - with no luck. The rust is on both sides (driver and passenger) on the plates that come down from the bulkhead to the floor (on the driver's side this is the area behind the foot pedals - on the passenger's side same area but no foot pedals there). Looking for advice on how best to go about the repair - how much to cut, what type of metal to use, how to join new to old (overlap or not, if yes then overlap outside or inside) and any other info that might help. TIA Adam

Chris - fantastic link, I had no idea that I could get them here. The cost of postage from the UK is several times higher than that of the parts and when I got the brake the cost of the postage and handling was higher than the cost of the whole disk brake !! Any idea what the part number is and what brake it comes off ? Adam

Got a M8 passing through the UK a couple of months ago to pick me up a set of pads but he has miss laid them and now I am at the stage where the housing is rubbing on the disk so I have taken the whole thing off and as an emergency fix have sent one of the pads to be re-surfaced by a local brake company. Can't work on a hand brake-less LR so have to get this cleared up ASAP. All this after having a rear radius arm let go while in one of the wildest regions - managed to keep the LR on it's wheels and jury riged with ratchets to get the clients to the camp site and then spent half the night trucking parts in and then fixing it up. Total damage is a dented fuel tank, one very expensive shock absorber and a grazed drive shaft. Still trying to figure out why a nylock nut (found near by and un-damaged) let go.

I have had my X-Eng disk hand brake for a couple of years and am very happy with it. Have just discovered that the front of the two disks has completly worn through while the rear remains nice and thick. Took the whole thing apart and found that the sleeves on the two bolts that should allow the whole thing to "float" have locked (gunk and corrosion) - got them free. Questions are: is the reason for this un even wear due to these sleeves being locked ? what can I do to avoid the sleeves locking again ? if the sleeves are not the reason what, in your opinion, might be ? TIA Adam

I'll get my act together over the next couple of days and pay pal a contribution. When one posts here next to their avatar is their title, nick name etc etc - perhaps the Mods could add another line under the avatar such as "forum supporter" to flag those who pay their way thus making it obvious to all - those who do and those who don't. This "title" would have nothing to do with the sum but rather simply denote the fact that the poster helps support financialy too. Apart from showing some sort of recognition for those who do pay it may also cause some who sit on the side lines to add their little bit rather than stick out as non contributors. just an idea. Adam

Start with the easy bits - sometimes a whistling turbo is no more or less than a small hole in the rubber/silicon pipe after the turbo. Such a hole can be very small and will only become apparent when the pipe is under pressure. Take the pipes off and inspect them very carefully bending and stretching as you go looking for small irreuglarities in the surface area. Next stage would be to check the turbo vane bearing and vane itself. To do this you will have to wait for the engine to cool and the take the hose off the outlet end of the turbo. The bearing there is a "floating" bearing which is kept susended by oil pressure. If the bearing is tired then there will be lots of oil around (it is normal for there to be small amounts of engine oil here). Because the bearing is a floating bearing there is a small anount of movement when you "rock" the vane (the vane is sharp so do this carefully) on it's axis/bearing. If there is too much movement there will also be too much oil and vice versa. While here check that the vane looks OK ie. that the blades are uniform - it spins at thousands of RPMs and any small nick in a blade will upset balance and make a noise.

Sorry, just seen this. The pump is not meant to be serviced and is not worth the trouble or the risk. Risk is in that the pump wears away and the spindle breaks causing the belt to let go and before you know it you have no fan and over heat. If this happens while you are on a highway travelling in a straight line the engine will probably over heat before you realize that you have no power steering. The steering box is also not really serviceable. I once bought an overhauled steering box and regreted the "saving" as it ended up being more expensive than a new one. Adam

The trouble with all the snorkels that come out of the wing is that they are prone to damage. I cut a small hole in the lower lip of the bonnet, turned the filter box round so that the in pipe faces the new opening, and then took a 54 mm rubber pipe out from there and then up the side of the windscreen. A couple of months later, while wading, I happened to hit a boulder just where the snorkel should have been and had the snorkel been there it would have been end of engine instead of just a winch job. Talk about premonition, foresight or luck (take your pick), what ever I was a very happy man. Apart from being safer and less impressive (i.e. bling) it is MUCH cheaper. Adam