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muzaz

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by muzaz

  1. Bit the bullet and placed the order, it has a 3 to 4 weeks lead time but thats ok. Enough time to take the bulkhead off and tidy the chassis with a lick of paint! Importing from the UK is not that bad tbh. Vat is not charged from the UK, I get charged the local rate on arrival which is 18%, 2% cheaper than the UK rate. The other costs are handling fees from the courier, which is just around €15 and duty. Duty on UK origin items is free, for the rest it would be around 1%. The only downside is the shipping costs, which are normally too high. In this case tho it was worth while considering the local costs. I might tempt myself to start selling them!! 🤑
  2. I know that feeling! 25years ago I had an 88" series 3, lots of fun and good memories! Bought a 200tdi engine as an upgrade, but before swapping engines I wanted to give the truck a "refurbish" and rebuild the engine. Well I took the engine apart but never but it back together again till this year, 15 years later! And the series 3 ended up garaged for ages. Sold it off for peanuts somw years ago to make space. Not repeating the same mistake, I'm older now! 🤣
  3. Thanks Arjan, will contact Richard and ask for a quote. Got a quote from SP4x4, that is £1200 delivered for a galvanised one. That would be around €1650 incl tax, I'm happy with that compared to the €3400 quoted locally! So I will definitely import one either from the UK or somewhere else. Ye the thing is, it's the bulkhead, something I would not be looking forward to take apart again in the near nor distant future. Besides that, I have plans for the truck which keep on getting shelved. I'd rather start enjoying it sooner, life is short!
  4. Yeah, unfortunately it is far too gone, and as much as I'd like to repair it, it's not worth the time spent on it. I'd d rather spend some extra money and have it on the road sooner. But I think they do manufacture their parts or at least have someone local do it for them, not foreign import.
  5. Yes that's the intention, the one linked is pressed rather than welded, galvanised and made in the UK. The price looks good if they can deliver at a reasonable price.
  6. I'm throwing in the towel...too much rust and almost nothing left from the bulkhead. I could attempt to repair it and I will at some point but it will take too long to do it right. So after much consideration I think it will be wise to opt for a new bulkhead. Buying one locally will be north of €3k so I'm looking at suppliers from the UK. From the description, SP 4x4 seem to have decent quality bulkheads at quite good prices, anyone got experience of one of theirs?https://www.sp-4x4.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=JWP3001
  7. I think the issue has to do with the injection pump, apparently there are different pumps which are set at different crank angles. We were setting timing at 13° as marked on the flywheel, however the pump may be an older type which should be at 16°. We set it at 16 and it's running much smoother now, no smoke at idle and responds well to throttle input.
  8. A friend of mine needs some help setting the injection timing for a 2.25 series 3. The engine is a 5 main bearing, with 13° and 14° timing marks on the flywheel. He took the skew gear off and replaced the bearing and reinstalled it at 20 ish degrees as per Hanes manual instructions. He set the timing at 13° and installed the injection pump. The injection pump has internal marks which are lining up ( "A" mark to circlip) however its not running right. Low on power, smokes and difficult to start even when warm. Any idea of how it should be set?
  9. I have an adversity to welding 🤣 Probably due to my line of work on aircraft where everthing is bonded together with sealant and riveted or bolted. Done properly it will hold well.
  10. In it's current state, half chopped, side post and part of the footwell removed, I think it will loose its shape if I attempt to galvanize it. Will treat it with phosphoric acid to neutralise any remaining rust, paint it with zinc phosphate and seal it with dinitrol. Open as it is I can reach most of the internal crevices. The repair panels will go on with sealer and rivets rather than plug welds as from what I could notice, rust starts from welded areas.
  11. I'm not sure what it's correct name, I mean the frame underneath the skin panels. In the photo its the section you can see under the vent cutout where the bonnet hinge is attached.
  12. Got some good news and some bad news! Spent the morning carving with the grinder and finally got most of the rusty rot away...that's the good news... The bad news....there's not much of the bulkhead left! 😣 Had to take the inner structure off as it was mostly crumbled rust. Will have to fabricate all parts as I cant find any repair sections. Will see, I'm half thinking I should gave gone for a replacement bulkhead... Wish me luck!
  13. Engines, gearboxes and mechanical parts in general are fairly easy to change or replace. Body/chassis repairs are not. Have a good look at the bulkhead.
  14. Good, one problem less! Thanks. Tomorrow will cut the vent panel out to discover the horrors underneath.
  15. Yes I think thats correct, but do they clip directly to the door post, or there should be some part of the bulkhead frame which supports it. For example, the windscreen frame hinge where it is attached to the top bulkhead, under the skin there is an internal structure. Is there anything similar for the doors? Would like to find some photos or drawings of the internal structure but cant find any. Just found photos of rust and holes 🤭
  16. Any idea of what the internal structure under the bulkhead skins should look like? Took the pillar off and found nothing...surely the door hinge must attach to some sort of internal reinforcement. Mine was two nuts welded onto the pillar.
  17. I meant, strange it rusted out so badly in its first 7 years of existence! UK weather must be really hard for Landrovers! The damage I'm finding now, 30 years later, was mostly under already repaired sections or hidden with body filler. At first looks it looked fine, no obvious heavy rust. Only when I started taking things off and poking here and there the problems came out. I'm fine with some surface rust, not a big issue, and anyway as you said after repairs and cavity wax, should hopefully be good for a long while!
  18. I'm reluctant to galvanize it, heard some stories of warpage etc and I have enough trouble at hand! The curious thing is this, the truck is 1988 yom, in 1995 it was exported and registered locally. All repairs to the bulkhead appear to have been done before being exported, so that means in the first 7 years the bulkhead suffered extensive rusting. Both lower footwells, bulkhead top corners and driver side vent were repaired.
  19. Looks good! Did you lift it?
  20. Thanks for the replies, will go for 16x7" ET-25. Will see how much they cost to ship them. As for tyres I can find Toyo MT local to me, not cheap tho at 240€ a pop.
  21. I'm after a set of mach 5 style wheel for my defender 90 but getting a bit confused on selecting the right size. https://4x4tyres.co.uk/brand-name/challenger/#pa_wheel-size=4884 The tyres I want to fit are 255/85r16 Toyo Open Country MT. The wheels I'm seeing have different widths and different offset: 16x10" ET-32, 16x8" ET-20 or ET-32 or ET-35, 16x7" ET-20 or ET-25 Any suggestions which way to go please?
  22. A new galvanized bulkhead is out of my budget, they are very expensive locally. If I manage to fix the rot I'm seeing and give it a good dose of wax and sealer inside, it should hopefully outlast me!
  23. Always good to keep friends! You can thin it with acetone to the consistency you need and pour it...you won't find it in the instructions 😜 Yes, was there, moved on to Srt.
  24. If you have friends working on aircraft you might borrow some PR1440 polysulfide sealant.
  25. Given the extent of the damage to the top sill of the bulkhead, I see no other way round it, the frame had to come off. Can't weld the repair piece in with the frame in place. Took the frame off completely, mosty stuck because of the bead of sealant.
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