110v8

hello ken thanks for that but how did the center diff cause the front wheels to lock if the diff lock off?

well had it to garage for mot yesterday, when doing brake test it appears the diff locked up and it jumped the rollers, he then put it on ramp to have a look and told me the diif lever on front output housing is in the full off position, but when spinning something inside it catching causing regular knocking and semi engagement, he took the lever assembly off and found the shaft all way back in off position but seized in place, could not see what was causing the problem

hello wayne, sorry but I part ex the lt95 for the 77/230 replacement, as for tunnel etc we adjusted the current to fit new box sorry, as far as I know he has box in shed probably for ever I will ask if he interested, problem with it is jumping out of high, all gears shims etc replaced with new but could not fix, we found that the high gear was rocking worn on shaft and we could not get new shaft anywhere, only change to box is that the high range gear is out of range rover much higher ratio .

I thought with diff lock off wheel should spin free

I have a 1983 110 v8 county, recently the lt95 died and after two rebuilds in 3 months gave up and fitted a lt77 and lt230 transfer box, the models are late 80's defender, I now have a problem that is baffling me, when acceleratingI hear a speed related knock from below and on overrun/ braking this changes to tinny rattle, it is there all speeds all gears hi/lo diff in and out, and in neutral when moving, to find the noise I lifted rear wheel and spun it slowly listening for noise, after half a turn the wheel locked, on checking prop shafts it seems as in diff lock had engaged all locked up, easing wheel back half a turn then forward again released it, or if I forced wheel forward it juddered several times and released, how can diff lock engage on own like that, I assume this is causing my noise. any insight /help appreciated

i used to run a lucas sports coil but had to change to the dlb198 for the new dissy with 3 pin module, read it did not like sports coil, module replaced 2 month ago old one packed in after 4 months guess i was mean to have msfire, i cleaned everything other night and wrapped insulating tape around the pos and neg on coil this reduced the misfire a lot and leads only glowed from the plug boots now but after towing a car up a steep very icy road at full rev it getting bad again

thanks for that they are 4 year old magnecore sport 80 leads 8.5mm should they have packed up this soon

only just got home with the v8, on checking under bonnet i found that the lead connection to all plugs were glowing in the dark, anywhere i touched a lead it started to glow, if i ran finger down a lead the light followed, they lit up on all cable brackets in fact anywhere a cable touched something they lit up, does anyone have any ideas what can cause this thanks bob

have just replaced my points dissy with the new electronic dissy with the 3 connection module on the side, i am looking for the plug that fits onto this to connect to coil, at moment am using home made tails with push on connectors but this leaves all open to elements without proper plug and i get problems when raining backfire/missfires that need ignition turned off and back on to reset module before it will restart. does anyone know of a dead broken engine it can can be borrowed from lol

joy joy joy, as per last post this is very weird, looking in radiator filler with level up to top of neck it is flourescent green, stick a white cloth in and cloth is clear, squeeze cloth into glass and the liquid is very faint but definately PINK. beer tokens all round now i dont have to spend next saturday tiddle wet through again thanks

could not get the drain open and did not want to risk shearing anything so pulled bottom hose and temp sender for hose, engine a 4ltr fitted 3 yrs ago brand new from rpi, changed to edelbrock inlet and carb with 3,5 timing cover and dissy to keep it simple, put hose into rad and drained out of temp sender hole, would this not clear it all through

[did not think i had i drained and ran water through it after each step of flushing to avoid the jelly of mixing the two, but looks like i must have, spent all day with the drain, flush and refills and with the 30min runs on each bottle of the holts cleaner, try again next weekend then

i started with firebond for years on my 110v8 full comp but since they sold to footmman james price dropped to 130 a year full comp on classic no mileage limit, nice

i have a 110v8 and after last years freeze decided to flush and refill the cooling system, i bought and used the holts two pack flush( acid and neutraliser) then refilled using gm oem oat longlife red antifreeze mixed 50/50 will de-ionised water, ran engine to temp then checked radiator and it was filled with bright green fluid, i know i put pink in and it was flushed and hose run through before refill, any ideas?

i have tried raising the fan temp as suggested but had the overflow tank let loose with the pressure, the fan switch is from rs components and is the type with cappilliary pipe into top hose and adjustable dial, i set this to 90 and watched the temp gauge (sender and gauge for 3.5 lr engine,this a 4l) go up to 3/4 gauge when fans cut in and i saw overflow draining,normal running without much load or speed the gauge reads just below 1/2 and fans cut in just above 1/2