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The Badger

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Everything posted by The Badger

  1. In a bit of trouble. I am traveling home to Umeå and my Defender is suffering from a broken steering arm ball joint. I have the Discovery 2 type fitted on a HD arm. Whilst I am at it I also need the steering box end pan head rod bolt and gummy bush. I can drive the vehicle but suffer a serious death wobble on any bump and cannot drive over 40km. At the moment I am on the German side of the Puttengarden to Rodby ferry, I can’t drive it all the way but will make it over the ferry and try and sort something out Anyhow, advice on any tricks to fix world be most welcome.
  2. Yes. where should it be? sorry it's a 2.8 Tgv, mostly like a 300tdi
  3. So, it's a bit of a weird one and I "think" i know what is wrong, but... After running the Defender for a while, if I turn of the engine, it will not start again. I turn the key and on crank, I get nothing. I "think", its the starter motor solenoid or motor being too hot from the engine. It will start if I let it cool down a bit? Anyhow, anyone had such issues? Cheers
  4. Ok, will try that tomorrow, thanks. I have a battery level indicator on the first battery and even after a night I get a low power warning on it. I thought that its the second battery draining the first, but then they would have to be connected? I will test before more confusion...
  5. Nope? A friend who is an auto electrician tested it with his machine, think it was on the positive of the first battery. (but did not pay too much attention as I was fixing my headlights (they are now fixed)
  6. Thanks, it's great to get a clear example. I have two batteries, and I have a HD Albright between the two, the weird thing is the second battery is just not getting charger when I trigger it one via a switch on the dash? I get about a 45amp charge on the first battery, but the second one nothing. Before fitting the solenoid I had a HD manual switch, but it's hard to reach hence fitting the Albright. I left in the HD switch as it will still work if there is no power to put into solenoid. The batteries are wired up as follows in picture
  7. Ok, that is me reading the Hynes manual diagram wrong. It's a 300tdi euro loom. Ok, so if I am understanding correctly, the charge goes back down the starter wire to the first battery?
  8. Trying to find a good solution to make a split charge system. But trying to find how my first battery is charged, from what I understand it's the Brown/White wire from the Ignition, but where does it go to?
  9. Not sure if this is after the fact, but one thing to remember when making any building is that ideally you do need some point of moisture control barrier / breather membrane somewhere. Ideally you put the breather membrane (Just google it and look at pictures) between the external of the walls/roof and the cladding/facade/non breathable water proof layer. So in the case of roofs, the steel/tiles sits on top of the non permeable side of the breather, ideally with a batten gap. The reason for this breather membrane is moisture needs to escape through the roof from the inside, this will come up through the concrete floor (unless you have put plastic underneath), or in through the breather blocks/bricks and from things in the room. If there is no membrane then the moisture will get stuck between the top of the roof structure and the water proof layer, and condensation will form, and or then rot in most cases. Hight wise, you are bang on to keep below 2.5 meters, you can go as high at 3 meters to the eaves, and 4 meters to the apex usually, but if you are within 2 meters of a boundary you have to stay below 2.5 within those 2 meters. Looks good, wish I own a house so I could build and LR cave.
  10. Hi all So I am thinking of upgrading my alternator to one that can kick out some more amps. If I do this I need to also replace the vacuum pump that is currently off the back of the current alternator. Anyone have any suggestions about what el vacuum pump to use, I can remember see somewhere that a Audi one would be ok, but I can't find the thread. Anyone done this, have any thoughts on it?
  11. Ah, now that is very useful to know, thanks TSD. I went to a friend Auto Electricians and he put the machine on it, it is charging but at about 45amp. I also found the cause of my lights not working, The power going to trigger the relay that turns on the main lights was not getting any power, all the switches were good, relay, lights, fuese etc etc I patched it by just taking a power feed from the white ignition live terminal, now it's all good? Who knows why there is no power going to that line?
  12. Personally I though the parts manual was the best one for my build, but the Haynes one is good to quickly look up torque wrench settings, that's sort of it really... The tricky questions I asked on here and got lots of great help. Honestly I could not have build my LR without the help of folks on the forum, so here is a chance to say, thanks.
  13. Thanks for the reply, yeah that is what I thought too. So I brought a new one and replaced it, still no light. I had a look at one of the relays by the fuses and one over the contacts has gotten hot at some point due to burning signs on the relay connector, switch the relay with one of the others and still no joy?
  14. Ok, I will check the earth. I have had another weird issue in that the main headlight have stopped working. I have side lights, I have high beam, but just no main beam? Checked the fuses, they are all good. Checked the bulbs by swapping them with a new one, not that. Checked the relay where the fuses are, one of the contacts had signs of overheat, so swapped that with one of the others, still not working? All the fuses in the main box, under seat are good too, so it's not there? Any ideas, not looked at the earth yet.
  15. That's good to know, I am thinking the alternator might be not 100% though as it stays on a while. I might just skip the ignition key set up as it being on switchs with a push to start would be much simpler.
  16. Yeah, I think it's that as the starter is good and it has been totally fine... but then I have had an earth drain for a while, so when I start the battery light is on for a bit.
  17. So, I drove a bit then parked to pop into the shop, when I came back tried to start but turned the key and on crank, got nothing? Everything else was fine in all other positions of the key turn? Just on crank nothing happened. took the dash off, looked for loose wires, none. Put the dash back on, had a chat, tried again and it worked?? Anyone have any idea why? Is it a sign that something else will soon break?
  18. I think my pump is a bit week, and been thinking of replacing it, trouble is my engine is a 2.8tgv with a Brazilian alternator, does anyone know the UK version of this, or an upgrade that could work?
  19. All back in now, took a whole 5 mins to lift the box on the trolly, and get it onto the gearbox. Thanks for the comments.
  20. Yeah, I added onto the TB case one of the oil cooler bigger sump plates, it sits pretty flat now on the ground so it should work fine with just a trolly jack.
  21. Only done it in Sweden, the hard bit was the engine type as it is a 2.8 TGV, they did not have such a engine in the system, but it's Swedish now.
  22. Great, thanks for the responses. Yeah, the old one came out pretty quick, the hardest bit was taking the sound killer mat out neatly without pressing on the fuse box and moving all the carp that is sitting around in the truck. Since I had no jack or lift here I took the back off so a friend could grab the box at the top, to then lower it down to the floor. Ordered a trolly jack so I can lift up the new one to fit so that will make it easier.
  23. So took the old one off as described in a tread in the tech archive. Got delivery of a shiney new one, now to fit. Do I need to take the back casing off of as described in the thread, or can I just lift and slide this new one on?
  24. This has happened to me, it was the stalk switch, bits inside had worn out.
  25. The modular aspect is very key I feel, I mean the defender is modular, we hack, add, change etc etc, it's part of the charm. How the next gen hack, is quite digital, but that's not to say real buttons are not relevant, as they are for reasons already mentioned above. Old is new, new is old, old is new again, at some point Defender will be more fashionable, and then not. I know that's all irrelevant to most of us on here as I think the word fashion maybe does not apply.... Real buttons are great for simple actions, digital stuff is way more complex hence such simple buttons are not so useful. But, they can be used to scroll, select and click, even if there is a touchy feely screen thing.
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