dan9090

Hi, My drivers side sunvisor is seized (in the retracted position thankfully). Been like it for years since I bought the truck but just getting round to cosmetic things like this. Presumably the metal bar on which the foam rotates has rusted onto whatever internal mechanism there is inside the foam. WD40 has had no luck. Does anyone know how these are constructed inside and any chance of freeing it up. Or should I be looking on the bay for a replacement? Want the sunvisors sorted beforeing investing in LaSalle headlining (maybe)! Thanks Dan

Hi, I have a 1988 truck cab 90 without an interior courtesy light (appears as though it never had one). Has anyone ever retro fitted one who has experience of how tricky this is? Trying to assess whether its a job I want to undertake and how! Many Thanks

thanks both - job for tomorrow.

Piccies below:

The parts have now arrived so I can show you some piccies of what I mean! My money is on option 1 below but what do you wise folks think? OPTION 1 OPTION 2

taking it back to basics, is the blower motor working? (ie: can you feel the difference in airflow when you switch on the blower?) had to replace mine recently and prior to that you could barely feel the heat on account of the very little air passing through.

Thanks. Anyone have any idea about the orientation of the part marked #17 below?

I am fitting a 3/4 tilt to 1988 90 truck cab. I was missing the various rope hooks etc for fitting to the bodywork so am ordering these from Craddocks. The parts books isnt detailed enough to show exactly how these should orientated. I am talking about fitting parts 334245(right hand); 334246 (left hand); 330578 (right hand) and; 330579 (left hand). Anyone got any pics which would help please?

The folks at Holden were great (I'm not associated with them!). Very quick delivery and a good solid product now fitted to my truck. In hindsight a right angled version may have been slightly more suitable as the spring would then be pulling 'down' on the bonnet rather than sideways. That said, I am very pleased. Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks for the link. Placed an order with Holden today for the T-handle type metal catches. Hoping that they arrive by Saturday.

Thanks. Being known to get muddy perhaps the Aerocatch is not for me. Great pics though - thanks MOD style galvanised side fitting catches is my preference. Genuine ones seem to cost a fortune and then there are loads of non-genuine. Can anyone suggest ones which they know to be decent quality at a fair price? Thanks

Thanks. Very good point - particularly as that's why I removed the stock cable and catch! Maybe go for some more traditional bonnet pins without the fancy flush fitting. Any opinions on those? [will also save me about £40 in the process!]

Hi, I took off the traditional catch a year or so ago and replaced with the rubber catches which have now started to split. Considering either metal replacements (which I can't seem to find) or Aerocatch flush fitting bonnet pins. Obviously these require a lot of cutting of the bonnet to sit them flush - has anyone done this successfully to a Defender bonnet? Photos would be great! Thanks Dan

fantastic link - thanks Western!

Hi there, I've just bought a PVC Defender 3/4 tilt (I'm guessing it is a body fit as it has the window next to the cab) which I'm told has ALL the necessary sticks and fixings. I will be picking up next week sometime and want to make sure that I come away with all the necessary bits and bobs. Is anyone kind enough to provide an exhaustive list of what I should be looking for? I can pretty well imagine the sticks section but I'm unsure as to how the aluminium channel piece works next to the cab (and what bits I should be looking for). Any photos to assist with fitting would be very welcome! Dan

I couldn't agree more - have used Steve for past 3+ years and would recommend. I'm currently waiting for a nice 200tdi disco to come up for grabs at which point Steve will be dropping into the 90 for me

Hi reb78 / other WAECO heated seat users, Im thinking of doing the same on my stock 1988 90 seats. id you go for them and if so how did you get on? Im no auto electrician - is the wiring fairly simple?? Cheers, Dan

Ok, after some fiddling with fusebox and wires I now have 12.5V on the green/purple wire that goes through bulkhead to blower motor ....However - blower still not working Have taken switch out of dash and examined the 3 wires which look ok. I heard a suggestion of connecting the black wire with one of the others via a split pin which should then make the circuit and power the blower. Tried this on both non-black wires and no success on either Wherever next?? Relay? Are there some tests I can do with the multimeter on the dash or fuseboard wiring? Do I run a cable from battery live to motor (+ an earth) and see if it does actually blow?

Could someone point me towards a thread which talks about removing the dash heater blower switch please? Imagine its easy and Im being stupid

Am I right in thinking that the next place to look is the dashboard switch?

Thanks - will sort tomorrow. You mention that your cover was also wrong - how was that? - I was going to rely on what the cover what telling me in terms of required sizes!

Never had cause to check my fuses since buying the truck. Whilst fiddling with the blower motor I have found that my fuse box contains a variety of fuses few of which match the recommeded AMP size on the back of the fuse box cover. Its a standard truck with a standard fuse box and dont beleive anyone will have fiddled about with wiring so was going to replace all the incorrectly sized fuses with those recommended on the back of the fuse box cover. Is there any reason why so many would be incorrectly sized (apart from previous owner laziness) - ie: any reason why I shouldn't replace them all??

Multimeter arrived this morning so have performed the tests as suggested with following results: TEST 1 (on heater side 3way connection) RED to purple/green wire and BLACK to green/yellow - 4.3 reading when set at 200ohms RED to purple/green wire and BLACK to green/white - 2.0 reading when set at 200ohms I assume this is telling me the heater blower motor is ok? TEST 2a (on bulkhead side 3way connection with blower on FULL) RED to green/yellow BLACK to engine - no reading RED to green/white BLACK to engine - 3.3 reading when set at 200ohms TEST 2b (on bulkhead side 3way connection with blower on LOW) RED to green/yellow BLACK to engine - no reading RED to green/white BLACK to engine - no reading I assume this is telling me the dash earth is ok but my resistor is shot - dont mind about that for time being would be happy to just use the blower on FULL! TEST 3 (testing live feed) RED to green/purple BLACK to engine - 0.03 when set at 20VDC Assume this is indicating a problem here somewhere?? Could anyone please tell me where I go next with this?