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rjsdavis

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Everything posted by rjsdavis

  1. Okey dokey - I've made some progress, but only in terms of ruling some issues out: 1 - I kindly enlisted the help of a D2 boys club member who has a Nanocom. I went to him, and we tried to re-sync the key, with the nanocom following the instructions that we posted on the D2 site. Sadly, this didn't work, and the Nanocom rejected the key. I figured that this might have meant that the key was screwed and would need either repair or replacement. 2 - Having spent some time looking for key repairer's - I found this guy on Fleabay who promised to be able to fix any LR key - solving soldering joints / issues etc or your money back. I decided that I still wasn't 100% on him, so decided to pop in and call on his workshop the next time I was in London. Before starting any work, he brought a transmission tester, and clearly showed me that the key was "working" - i.e. the red light comes on, and his tester demonstrated that a signal was being broadcast. He said, that I simply needed to have my key synced with the car again. He couldn't do this, so I left with it having cost me nothing. Therefore, I'm still in the position of having only one of our two keys working. The "faulty" key is apparently still working, and broadcasting a signal when the fob is pressed. The receiver in the car clearly still works, as the other of our two keys still works and disarms the car just fine. What to do next???? Would rather avoid a main stealer - as I'm sure that they'll just tell me to buy a new key for £120 and have it coded to the car. Does the main stealer have the capability of getting my old key, that apparently still works coded / sync'd back to the car to get it working again? Many thanks...
  2. SOLVED! I got a suggestion on a another forum that it might be a stretched cable - sure enough, it was. I removed the latch/actuator unit and once this was free of the door, I was able to pull the inner door lever cable further than you can when it's all installed. The door latch clicked open, and I was able to see, that the first 25% or so of the movement of the inner door handle was pretty slack. When you pulled the inner door handle as far as it would go whilst it was in place, and then compared it to how far it needed to be pulled to release the latch - there was a noticeable difference. I could then see that the cable itself had fixed anchors on either end, and there was no scope or ability to adjust the tension in the cable at all. I needed to fabricate something to take up the excess slack from the stretch, and the only way that I could see that this could be done, is where the outer cable housing enters the small black plastic stop that clips into the door, just short of the inner door handle itself. As a cyclist, I had tons of outer gear and brake housing in the garage, so I snipped off a very short (about 1/2 cm) of black cable housing. The only problem with this is that the inner door cable is fixed, and there's no way to get the housing over the inner cable, so using some cable cutters, snipped along the long side of the short slice of cable outer to open it out. What this actually did was to disintegrate it into multiple individual parts - however, I used the individual shards and then used the black plastic cable housing to keep it in place on top of the inner cable, then stuffed the lot into the black plastic grommet that sits beside the inner door handle itself. I needed to pull the cable through in order to get it into the black plastic grommet/stop so this definitely took up the slack. Once the cable had been hooked back into the door handle, and the main latch re-fitted back into the door, shut the latch with a screwdriver and hey presto - she's working from both the inner and outer door handles. Result. It's hard to explain exactly, but see the three pics I've uploaded below for how the mod was created and how it ended up in the cable stop/grommet. So, she's all working again now - rear tailgate working exactly as it should be. Here are the pics: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-ii-td5-2004-rear-door-wont-open-from-inside-will-open-from-outside-and-unlocks-fine.297387/#post-3705092
  3. Hello to all I've googled this, and cannot find a solution or indeed another post that's the same - so sorry if I've missed it. Our rear door has only ever opened from the outside. It opens fine from the outside. It also unlocks / locks with the central locking without problem. I've just had to replace the rear windscreen wiper motor and arm, so thought I'd see if I could cure whilst the rear door card was off. I can see that the inner handle cable is connected to the latch. When I pull the handle, I can feel the cable being pulled and can hear that the latch is being "adjusted" internally. (BTW - I can confirm that the child lock is off - I have tried wriggling the child lock on/off, and when it's on, I can hear that the internal handle definitely does less to the latch - which is what I would presume it should do). Has anyone else had this? It's not the end of the world, but it does mean that passengers in the dicky seats cannot let themselves out of the car which is a little annoying. As I say, can find plenty of threads about the rear door either not unlocking or not being able to be opened from the outside, but not this issue. The doors still apart, so was going to unbolt the latch and c/l actuator and remove to see if there's something really obvious that I can't see whilst it's all in place inside the door. Would be dead handy if there's a common fix for this particular niggle. Many thanks for any pointers.
  4. Hello to all - I have a very similar problem, so it seemed appropriate to post it in here, rather than create a new thread: We have a Disco 2 (2004), which we've had for a long old time now. We've always had two original keys, that have always both worked without fault. Yesterday, for some reason, one of the keys decided to stop working. Battery was still good, red light still came on when a button was pressed, but a new battery was tried regardless in case this cured it. It didn't. My wife and I each have one of the keys. Hers stopped working, and when I got back, mine was still working perfectly. Therefore, I believe we can rule out the battery in the key, the receiver in the roofline and so on. As an aside, my wife's key plastics were replaced a few weeks ago (not that I believe this to be relevant, but mention it all the same). The main LR logo button cracked and failed from use - therefore, replacement plastics were obtained and I swapped over the blade and the ECB inside. Upon having swapped over the plastics, this key continued to work perfectly until Saturday. Therefore, I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do to resolve it, or even why it would just stop working like this? Please don't tell me that this is a MD only fix! Is there something I can do at home to re-learn the 2nd key back into the alarm/immobiliser system to have them both working again? Many thanks in advance for any replies Oh, by the way, I've tried the "press the padlock button down at least four times to re-sync the key to the car" which I found in the technical manual. It didn't work for me. I've tried four times on the trott, six times, nine times each interspersed with opening and locking the car with the working key. I can't get a reaction from the non-working key at all at the moment.
  5. Hi there I've got a new glitch on the TD5, and wondered if it's something I can fix myself... In the last week or so, the rear door has stopped unlocking from the central locking - that is to say, either from the unlock from the remote key, or from manually sticking the key in the driver's door and unlocking the car that way. All other doors unlock as they should. The rear door can now only be opened by pulling the internal door catch from the inside of the car, so one of the kids needs to be reach over the top of the rear seats, pull the lever and the door catch pops up, so that the door can then be opened from outside - it's a real pain in the rear! The rear door then locks as it should from the central locking - just doesn't open! I was going to guess at it being a solenoid, but was confused as to why it would lock, but not unlock (surely a duff solenoid simply would lock OR unlock??). It would be dead useful if someone could identify what part I need to replace to fix the problem - would like to pop to the breakers and then fit it myself if at all possible.... Thanks in advance for any assistance to help get this niggle sorted!
  6. Finally got this cured - thanks to Gary at Bigbury 4x4 in Canterbury. I've had loads of suggestions, from downpipe to counter-weights and so on, but the cure was the handbrake unit. Apparently, there was a recall on Disco TD5's back in the late 90's, where a certain piece was removed from the handbrake unit as it was causing problems - Gary checked this, and found that not only that the handbrake unit was full of gunk, but also required a modicum of adjustment to ensure that the fittings were tight. This explained that when the fault was being replicated (whilst stationary), that it could be relieved by gently pulling up on the handbrake whilst holding it in the offending rev-range. No parts required, just a bit of adjustment and clearing out of some carp, and totally thrilled that that fecking rattle has finally GONE! Oh, the relief..... what a good LR mechanic - can't recommend him highly enough. (thanks for no replies though)....
  7. Hi to all Got a slightly odd problem. Yesterday, my wife got stranded in the TD5, where on a short journey she experienced firstly two of the yellow air suspension lights lighting up, then a minute or two later, pretty much all of the lights on the dashboard lighting up and a loss of power. This was then followed by the lights dimming on the dashboard and then her headlamps going off (! - it was at night) and a massive loss of power. She limped it at 5mph to its destination and then the engine could not be restarted - and when the key was turned you'd just get that "fast clicking" from the starter motor. I got to her with the jump leads - fed some power in for about 30 seconds, and she started up immediately with no lights flashing on the dashboard. It was immediately obvious that the battery was virtually dead. Left the jumps connected for about 6-7 minutes to feed in some more juice, and then drove the TD5 home (about 3.5 miles) with no problems. Left the TD5 on trickle charge overnight and drove the following morning - she drove fine, but got the battery tested - it failed and later that day got a brand new Bosch S4 Silver unit and installed it. Shortly before the battery was changed, the red "battery" light on the dashboard had popped on and stayed on. I assumed that this was simply indicating that the old was indeed cooked and required attention. However, since the change, it has stayed on - the new Bosch job has been trickle charged and it is completely full. The TD5 drives really well, and is much perkier under throttle to 50mph than she was before with the old battery - and there are no other lights flashing. As far as I can tell, the car is running fine, but am concerned that the red battery light is still on - is this some sort of stored fault code that requires a computer clearance? I've taken on a very good run - multiple speeds / conditions from fast lanes to 80mph motorway and all were fine. Revved her upto 3.5-4,000 revs, and no budging from the red battery light...... Any ideas of what's causing this? As far as I'm concerned she's running relatively sweetly, but am worried that she's either not charging the new battery or is draining inappropriately and the wife will end up stranded again.....?
  8. Hiya - near Canterbury, Kent. Only real option is main dealer in Canterbury, but they would defo charge me a small fortune. I've always been on the hunt for a former main dealer trained technician that has set up shop on their own to beat dealer prices.... not that's always a good thing! Some main dealer tech's are SH***! Therefore, always looking for tech's that are user recommened and have a great reputation for knowing what they are doing - we really ought to have a dealer / independent review system here on this forum shouldn't we, so that we can all share our experiences?
  9. Hi tempest It's been suggested several times that the battery becomming old is the first thing to check and attempt to discount... How do you load test the battery in the way you've suggested? Is this something I can do myself, or can this only be done by a mechanic / motor factor with one of those battery voltage tools?
  10. Thanks for this - have already done this as a very temporary stop gap. Still need to get to the bottom of the fix though...
  11. Hi all I know that I've been a little selfish of late, and have a couple of issues that I'm trying to get to the bottom of! I've got a rattle that I've posted before, but a local mechanic thinks he's sourced the problem, the problem identified is apparently loose handbrake shoes and housing, which previously was occuring at around 2,000 rpm (from about 1,700 - 2,200 rpm) in either first, second or third gears. Above or below this range, there was no adverse noise at all. It was diagnosed, as apparently the mechanic has seen this once before, and this was double-confirmed by when driving the car on test and lifting the handbrake (gently!) whilst driving, just to the point of biting, the rattle is removed. Now, I've noticed that there is a rattle at idle. I kind of suspect that it is the same problem that has now got worse and is now rattling at idle as well as in the range described above. The reason for posting is that I just don't want to get this wrong. The parts (shoes and housing) are some £140 and the labour on top would make this an expensive mistake if it turned out to be something else!!! Any thoughts / experiences of any others users that might have seen / heard this before would be really, really welcome - particularly anything that can be checked by me at idle to make sure that this is what we currently think it is!! Thanks in advance for any help...
  12. Hi all Yesterday, I had a strange and new experience with the Disco. I parked up and stopped the engine, left the family in the car, as I was only very briefly stopping in a shop. Was away from the car for 4-6 minutes max. The car had had a "proper" drive previously (of some 30+ miles), and was properly warm - with no previous ill effects..... When I came back in started the car, she missed the first time. Took the key back round to start and did it again. She started. Moved her in D, and pulled away. She seemed slow to actually start moving, although I didn't immediately notice this as anything really untoward. When I say this, I mean, that she just seemed slower to react to the throttle than normal. Pulled onto a single carriageway, and then noticed that the green "S" and "M" lights were flashing on the dahsboard. I know that one is "Sport" mode, but didn't know what the other one was. I looked down and the "D" lights on the auto-box itself was also flashing - and I became more than a little concerned! I couldn't safely pull over for about half-a-mile, but she made this ok. I pulled up, shut down the car, removed the car, locked and then re-opened the doors (to simulate a full shut down), and then restarted. She was fine - no repeat of the behaviour at all, and nothing since. No flashing lights, and no further problems. Whilst I don't want to go looking for trouble as it were, I am concerned as to what this might be indicating as a problem, and if this is something that does need addressing, I would like to - it's the family transport and I would rather not have it leave my wife/children abandoned somewhere! If anyone knows what this problem indicates / could lead to, it would be very much appreciated!
  13. Hi there I've sourced a window leak in the rear offside passenger door window. Despite opening and closing it with the window controller, and despite it appearing to fully close, whenever we travel at motorway speed (60-80mph) - there is a very audible wind whistling. It is actually coming from the where the top corner meets the black part of the frame where the fixed part of the door window is (at the very top of the door). It's only on the one side too. When you hold your fingers near this joint, whilst travelling at these sorts of speeds, you can really feel the air coming in. Also - whenever you pressure wash water on this window, at this joint, it always penetrates the joint and drips down the inside of the glass. Now it's not a major problem, as rain water doesn't penetrate it - however, I would like to to fix it. The only thing I can think of is that the seal from the inside of the window frame is knackered and poorly fitting when the glass is fully raised, thus allowing this small gap - but before going to the expense of buying a new window seal, is there anything else it can be? Can't find another mention of this particular problem - only alpine and sunroof leaks - any help / suggestions, are very much appreciated.
  14. Hi Jon This has turned out to be a legendary suggestion! I'd actually forgotten that you made until I pulled into the driveway this afternoon, and happened to glance down at the low range box.... This has now been solved! I took her into the low-range, drove about 50 yards and pulled into the driveway and then hit the off-road button. Sure enough, she rose up as she should. I drove around for about 5 mins in low-range/off road mode, and then took her back in hi-range after stopping. I drove off again and hit more than 20 mph - the car automatically lowered out of low-range mode. Once she had lowered fully, I stopped again and again hit the off-road button, and low and behold - she started rising again! No idea why she needed to be in low-range/off-road mode first to get it to work again - but it did! Thanks Jon - doubt I would have tried that one on my own! Richard
  15. Hi Jon Thanks alot for the suggestion - defo haven't tried that one! Will give it a go in the morning and let all know how it goes....
  16. Thanks - that's primarily why I was looking at multi-car computers....
  17. THanks BogMonster - cheapest I can find this at the moment is £205 - sound like decent value to you? The other thing that occurs to me is that this is LR specific, and I was thinking that if I was going to invest £200-300 in an ECU communicating computer - it would be prudent to look at one that was multi-vehicle. The Disco is primarily the family car, but I also drive a VW - and was thinking that it would be good to get one that will read and diag these two cars computers as well as most others that we might buy/drive in the future. Any ideas which are the best for multi-car use? Obviously, it would have to be completely compatible with the Disco series, as I expect we will continue to use Disco's (inc. the new Disco 3 when we can afford it!)....
  18. Hi Jon Thanks alot for the suggestion. I don't know if it's in transit mode as you suggest, but I do know that the suspension defo does not drop down onto the bumps stops either overnight or after switch off. She always stays level no matter what. PS - where do you get one of these nanocoms that people seem to be mentioning from time to time? Are they expensive? Richard
  19. Dear all, I've been searching the forums to see if this has come up before, and can't find anything, so apologies if I've missed this somewhere else. I recently had the suspension compressor die on my D2. It was diagnosed and replaced. The car had been sitting low and wouldn't rise to full height, and pushing on the O/R button on the dash did absolutely nothing - it would just beep for ages, and the car wouldn't rise. The airbags were checked for leaks and found to be good, one had only been replaced about 6 months earlier. Therefore, new compressor was fitted, along with a replacement relay that went into the fuse box. I was advised that when the compressor dies, the relay usually goes too.... I picked up the car from the garage, and it was up and level, and was advised by the mechanic that the car pumped straight up again after the restart, so all seemed well. The car was level and seems to be at full height. However, when I got home, I pulled into the driveway and tried the O/R button - nothing happened. It beeped a couple of times and then went off. I know from when it was working normally that what should happen is that the yellow light on the dash should come on and flash/beep continuosly as the rear end is raising, and then stop beeping with the light staying on permanently whilst it holds the full height. Another press of the button, should set it flashing / beeping again as she lowers back down to normal ride height.... With mine, none of this was happening. It was flashing briefly and then nothing. The rear end was certainly not raising. It went back to the garage the next day and back on the computer. The computer reported that there were no historic or active issues with any part of the system. The compressor could be forced on, BUT the computer could not force on the O/R mode. However, as far as the computer could tell - the diag was that the O/R system (button on the dash) was functioning correctly. Therefore, mechanic is stumped.... It's not something that they've seen before. Does anyone know why the compressor would work, and pump at the suspension to normal ride height, but what would prevent the O/R button on the dash from preventing the car from rising to O/R height? Any suggestions for diag/repair would be much appreciated, as we're not sure what to test/change next with the computer reporting everything working a-ok!
  20. Thanks - I'll give this a go. Will let you know how I get on!
  21. Thanks for this also Jim - you can see my reply to bogmonster, and this just seems to easy to be true.... surely it's more complicated than this?!
  22. Hi Bogmonster Thanks for the reply. I can't put the Disco into off-road mode, as the compressor has gone completely. Whenever you press the o/r mode button on the dash, the amber light on the instrument cluster will simply flash forever and the suspension will do nothing. As said, there is still air in the system, which is why the car is hanging low at the back, but it's not completely deflated and resting on the bumpstops presently. I can guess that this is a pressurised system, and as soon as the air pipes are disconnected, it will deflate completely down onto it's bumpstops. I was trying to work out if it's as simple as disconnecting the air pipes at the compressor end, unbolting the compressor, bolting in the new compressor, reconnecting the air pipes and turning the enine on??!! This seems to be too good (and too easy) to be true, and I'm just concious of f***ing it up inadvertently. I've seen some really fantastic "how to" guides here on these forums and wondered if one existed for this job? I just don't want to get it wrong by missing out some essential step which I wasn't aware of....
  23. Dear all I have a Disco 2, with the typical air compressor failure - diagnosed by computer. I've got the replacement ready to fit, but haven't tackled an SLS replacement before. The system is still partially inflated and there are no air leaks. I'm concerned that as soon as I disconnect the existing compressor, the back end will fall down onto the bump stops. I'm then concerned about the new one needing to be piped into the system in a certain way - but I may be overly concerned about this... Is there a tech series on the process of fitting a new compressor anywhere? I've got the LR Tech Workshop manual, but it doesn't actually cover the removal / refitting in significant detail. Any pointers would be very much appreciated! Richard PS - I know a few purists will suggest a coil conversion - I don't want to do this thanks!
  24. For those that read this thread - all three problems have been identified and resolved (well sort of!) 1 - Hiss was caused by a leak / crack in the flexi-joint on the old exhaust downpipe. Hiss has gone completely with the new pipe that has just been fitted. 2 - Rattle has been identified as also being the downpipe as I suspected. However, I got a replacement from a salvage specialist, and whislt it cured No. 1 - it still rattles (which you couldn't tell until fitted), therefore still have the torque rattle. At least I know what it is now though. 3 - Completely cured by filter a new transmission filter kit and new gearbox fluid. It will happily change up to final lock-out at 55mph, when still only a quarter of the way on the temp guage on the dashboard clocks - which is excellent news. Anyone got a good downpipe for a non-cat TD5?
  25. Dear all I have two noises and another separate quirk that I am trying to identify in my Discovery 2 TD5 (1999) with an auto box; 1 - When moving off from the stationary, there is a distinct "hiss" which is related to the throttle and throttle use. If moving off from stationary, it will last about 1-1.5 seconds and then disappear. It won't come back unless I idle and lose speed, and then use the throttle again - when it will briefly (less than a second) re-appear, or if I go back to a full stop and start off again. Should it do this? My 300 Tdi never made this turbo hiss type noise! 2 - When moving at low speed and higher torque, i.e. moving up a hill slowly, there is a rattle coming from underneath the car. It only happens between 1750 & 2500 revs, and only at low speeds. It does happen in the same rev range on the flat, but is less noisy. It dissipates largely when the car is very warm, and has been running for 30 minutes or longer. Any ideas? 3 - Just a niggle - she can sometimes be slow to change up properly to 4th gear. She should move upto 4th at about 55mph, and will should drop down to about 2,000 revs. However, whilst she is cold, she will change up, but the revs only drop down to just below 3,000 revs. It can take anything between 10 - 25 minutes before she is warm enough to fully drop down in revs at 55-60mph. Any ideas? Thanks so much in advance to anyone kind enough to reply. Richard
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