eds

I ordered Delphi rear brake cylinders for my 200dti 110 and noticed that these are no longer made in Italy, no longer made of steel, and now are some alloy from China. The face that mates to the back plate is no longer machined either. I do not know whether any of the above information is important or interesting but I thought I would post the information for one and all to decide. Ed 🙂

Well to my shame here is a pic of what is being taken off complete with oil and leading edge... It seems that RTC3418 STC2797 & STC359 are all the same shoe now..... It also seems that friction material is no longer of different lengths. I'll pay attention to the adjuster pins when fitting. Thanks again, Ed 🙂

The pins look very similar but they could appear to be slightly differing..... I have shown both pairs of shoe, one set with the Mintex mark on and one with the Mintex mark face down. Only 2 shoes have Mintex written on them which would suggest they are different, but what happened to the leading and trailing edge of shoe material?

Maybe theses represent the new era of brake shoes with neither leading or trailing shoes??

I have just received my Mintex brake shoes from Paddocks. I looked at the parts list and I thought it says STC359 but paddocks do not recognise this part number. I did some cross referencing and consequently ordered STC2797G. Opened up the box and I can see what look to me as 4 trailing brake shoes. Can someone put me right? I believe my drums are 11 inch drums. I was all educated up on leading and trailing shoes, have I ordered the wrong shoes or have Mintex muddled the contents of a box? Any help gladly appreciated 🙂

I managed to do a temporary fix on the 3 loose nuts by gripping the tip of the bolts with a plumbers wrench and using an ultra thin 9/16af tappet spanner to get them tight. I will have to revisit the job asap as I am guessing the bolts have been damaged somewhat through movement as the nuts were extremely difficult to tighten. Had to force the plumbers wrench against the chassis to get the grip I needed which has mangled the bolt ends. I am hoping that is not an MOT fail so I might disguise the damage with some dirty grease...... When the time comes to do the job I'll drill the nuts and split them with a cold chisel I think. I have ordered a 30mm nyloc too 🙂 Cheers

Heating the nut sounds easier..... I even thought, would it be mad to just chop the bolts off and sacrifice the prop for the amount of headache I might have..... That is what I have learnt from the mechanic trade, get the job done quickly and buy a new part....

I'll see if I can get Les to release his technical archive..... I spoke to him not long ago, he might be persuaded. 3 out of 4 of my nuts spin so looks like a bit of work ahead 😞 I won't bother with the nut splitters then, I was just hoping! Another thought was to try and grip the bolt and tighten the nuts to get it through its MOT then tackle the job at a more agreeable pace.

Thanks Ralph, I saw this Les tutorial, but all the photos are missing?

My 200tdi 110 failed its MOT today by having loose nuts on the prop shaft. Went to tighten them and they spun at the parking brake hub. Planning on splitting the nuts with this tool.... https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/ Will this tool fit in place Mr experienced? And is this the best course of action to get the prop shaft off? Then plan to remove rear output bearing of the transfer box (which the MOT tester suggested was the fault as he could wobble the whole hand brake drum) insitu without dropping the transfer box but I don't know if that is possible. Can someone confirm whether my plan of action is achievable or if I am making an error in planning. I really hope I don't have to take the transfer box out 😞 Will I definitely need a slide hammer to get the output shaft+bearing removed as I have seen on instructional videos? I've got pullers.... Thank you......... Ed 🙂

Well here is the culprit...... Looks like the last time the timing belt was done the person did not line the keyway up and forced the damper on in the wrong position and cracked the damper. Also it looks like the wrong key or upside down key was used......?

Managed to separate the pulley from the damper using a combination of heat, hydraulic pullers and a metal wedge, took a couple of hours as following the advice not to go mental with the force. I have broken a cast pulley before doing just that so thanks for the reminder monkie. So the timing belt was on and was inspecting the key of the crank shaft for refittment of the damper and saw this.... I Any ideas as to what has happened here? Is it a definite sprocket off and new key job or will the damper bolt have enough friction to stop the damper from spinning. It has not spun in the past. I guess I know the answer already to that question, I just wanted to share this weird finding and see if anyone knows what could have happened. Ed 🙂

I did try using a metal wedge and hammer to tap the two apart but nothing moved much. I have soaked in wd40 so will look again tomorrow. I do have a puller plate that might slide behind the pulley a bit but good call on the heat, always forget heat being so good. I'll try a paint scraper too.....

This all makes perfect sense, I feel pretty stupid again for not being able to remember what I did before and for not working it out myself. I have just been out to the workshop to try to separate the damper from the pulley but they are pretty stuck together. I will have to get the pullers out again tomorrow. Thank you both for taking the time to help. Ed 🙂