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big ives

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big ives last won the day on July 16 2016

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    Northern Ireland

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    landys, fishing, shooting

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  1. Sorry for the late response travelling back to work Ok I will look at the master cylinder maybe time to replace it looks like it been on from the factory in 1989👍 For sure not leaking, no fluid in the drivers footwell But better to replace Many thanks Ivan
  2. Factory Defender V8 CSW 1989 Just past MOT last week Only just started yesterday twice my brake pedal got spongy giving the impression no vacuum at the servo had to push the pedal to the floor to get her to stop then the pedal got hard again Only happened two times yesterday doing about a 140 mile drive. Already checked the following this morning: - Hose to servo good vacuum no leaks and relatively new hose. Pump brake pedal start engine pedal moves a little bit as normal. No brake fluid leaks no loss of fluid. All callipers rebuild over a year ago. All wheel bearings checked no play. Spin the wheels and all brakes operate (no engine running) Also looking I have a G valve going to the rear wheels not a bias valve. Can not see or detect/hear any leak at the servo pretty hard with the v8 running. So, is my brake servo on the way out? Any other checks I can do to the servo? Brake master cylinder? Also does anyone have the part number for this G valve? Can this G valve be replaced with the normal defender bias valve? As always many thanks Ivan just found this part number for the G valve NRC 8215 so i belive this is the correct part
  3. Factory Defender V8 CSW 1989 Just past MOT last week Only just started yesterday twice my brake pedal got spongy giving the impression no vacuum at the servo had to push the pedal to the floor to get her to stop then the pedal got hard again Only happened two times yesterday doing about a 140 mile drive. Already checked the following this morning: - Hose to servo good vacuum no leaks and relatively new hose. Pump brake pedal start engine pedal moves a little bit as normal. No brake fluid leaks no loss of fluid. All callipers rebuild over a year ago. All wheel bearings checked no play. Spin the wheels and all brakes operate (no engine running) Also looking I have a G valve going to the rear wheels not a bias valve. Can not see or detect/hear any leak at the servo pretty hard with the v8 running. So, is my brake servo on the way out? Any other checks I can do to the servo? Brake master cylinder? Also does anyone have the part number for this G valve? Can this G valve be replaced with the normal defender bias valve? As always many thanks Ivan
  4. Ralph do you mean this one on turners site?......................cheers Ivan Elring Dirko Sealant - Sealing Compound
  5. nay bother mutley i am experienced enough to know i shouldn't have asked the question, 😂😂😂 i will get Peratex "the right stuff" gasket sealant here in the US and bring it home with me on my next crew change, that should seal it for at least 6 months😛😛........................................cheers ives
  6. quick question would one tube of STC50550 sealant be enough to do the sump on a 300tdi? cheers
  7. I have driven this NC 500 several times, once just myself and the wife I wanted to do the entire run and did it anti-clock wise from Inverness, I just wanted to have driven the entire NC500 route. The second time I lead a convoy with another 4 landys over a 6-day period, I agree the west coast drive is spectacular, in fact this time I missed out the east coast and drove from Inverness to Tongue up the centre of Scotland so to speak. If you are coming from the south then this route below is excellent from Perth to Inverness, this is my wording on the route which my friends had copies as we didn’t stay nose to tail. Plenty of things to see and do but as another poster says bring a load of patience and stop and do what you feel yourself wanting to do, no rush it’s about the journey However, whatever you do drive the pass from Applecross to Loch Carron this is breath taking scenery. Green lane run from Perth to Inverness about 89 miles in total Old Military Road, this is all tarmac roads but the scenery is beautiful. Just make sure you have good brakes lol lol lol and you will need second gear as the hills are steep. Take the M90 into Perth as normal. Cross the Friarton Bridge and take the junction immediately after it (J11). Heading back towards Perth town on the A85. Continue on this road until it leaves Perth and becomes the A93 towards Scone & Lethendy Continue through Blairgowrie still on A93 towards Bridge of Cally Eventually you'll end up at Glenshee Ski Centre. Continue on towards Balmoral Castle. Just BEFORE Balmoral Castle there is a sharp left that doubles back slightly leading uphill onto the B976 towards Braenaloin, YOU WILL PASS THIS JUNCTION so double back and continue Bear left in Gairnshiel to join the A939 and over the hump back bridge. Follow towards Colnabaichin Just before Colnabaichin turn left to stay on the A939 towards Lecht Ski Centre. End up in Tomintoul and stay on A939 towards Bridge of Brown. Eventually you'll end up in Grantown-on-Spey. Head south west on A95 towards Carrbridge via Duthill on the A938 and then join the A9 towards Inverness.
  8. thanks for the comments no road use so no MOT So just so i am clear i dont need another master cylinder just use the pipework from orginal MC to the fiddle brakes and then two lines to the rear wheels from the fiddle brake assembley
  9. I drove a friend wagon last Saturday with these fiddle brakes fitted, now I am wondering why I never fitted these before in my wagon., getting his defender to turn at tight stages was magic. So, my plan is as follows: - Fit vertical twin handled Milner kit complete with cylinders. Reroute the rear brake line from the master cylinder to the twin cylinders on the Milner kit. New brake lines from the Miners kit to each rear wheel. Air lockers already fitted to axles, and upgraded brake callipers on rear wheels. Will this setup work? Plumbing all brake lines as described can I still use the foot brake as normal on rear brakes as well as front brakes? Am I missing anything? Any comments welcome Many thanks
  10. mmgeminiI Not sure on your apples and pears remark, as my original question was about a defender 300tdi water temperature gauge, one would know it would be a defender gauge and sensor unless stated if an aftermarket gauge and sensor where indeed fitted. Again, the gauge and sensor where compatible, and one would know 88 degrees for the thermostat would be centigrade I don’t normally ask to many questions on the forum, but when I do it’s because I firstly have exhausted all avenues to suss the problem or problems I encounter, thankfully not to many. Many thanks for taking the time to write a reply. The original issue I request assistance for has been sorted.
  11. Defender 300tdi water temperature gauge Gauge not moving (used to work) 1) Ignition on, sensor wire to earth gauge moves. 2) Removed old sensor connected wire and applied heat to the sensor, temp gauge moved. 3) Installed a brand-new sensor black core defender, same again gauge not moving. 4) Again, tested both old and new sensors. just connected to the wire and earthed applied heat gauge moved New thermostat 88 degree fitted. New sensor (black core defender). Radiator good, no blockage and engine runs at what appears normal temp. Viscus fan operating as should engine not over heating (full days off-roading last weekend no issues only temp gauge not working) No heater fitted as it’s an off-road yoke. the only other thing is the orginal push on connector that was fitted onto the temp sensor was badly pershished so i removed it and connected the wire directly to the sensor with a crimp/brass connector, and tested so i know it works. Can someone please tell me what else to check?
  12. It’s a long shot but have to ask, I have electric aftermarket electric windows fitted to my defender for well over three years, the passenger window stopped working and on inspection it’s the 12v electric motor, the only info I can see on the motor is a name “champion” and no other serial number that I can read. So, does anybody have details of this motor? Maybe somebody has a new set there about to fit and could send me the details. Many thanks in advance Ivan
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