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hangover

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Posts posted by hangover

  1. Would it be possible to rig the 12v element to the thermostat on my absorption fridge to make it less power hungry on 12v, or is the point that it needs to run at full power on 12v just to keep up?

    They are so inefficient on 12V that they need all the power they can get.

  2. Who mentioned screws , i think my surgeon had shares in a hardware chain.

    This is my ankle after smashing the end of my tibia into 5 pieces, hard to see but there are 14 screws there plus the titanium plate.

    Rest well Mike, i know what its like to be off your feet for a while and not be able to drive.

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  3. I have run 6mm auto cable which is 4.59SQM to the rear of my disco from the auxiliary battery to power my fridge and lights, i wouldnt use anything smaller especially for a 3 way that will draw a lot of current.

    Turn the fridge upside down for an hour or 2 then back upright and then turn it on, they have a habit of settling when left for long periods.

  4. As I understand most caravan fridges, 12V is really only for when hooked up to the running car, once on pitch, you use 240 or gas.

    Exactly , they suck the juice on 12V but work ok on 240V and more efficient on gas.

  5. With all the caveats about mains safety etc. if yours works the same as our then yes, you can bypass the stat.

    I actually temporarily re-wired ours to make the stat switch a 12v relay to try and reduce battery use, made it ~30% better but 70% of terrible is still pretty bad!

    The compressor fridges aren't such a great deal if you can run gas, but if you can't they quickly stack up against the cost of more batteries & solar panels / generator etc. etc.

    The big test is 2 weeks away so I'll write up how well our setup fares ^_^

    You will love the Waeco, its nice being able to pull old a cold beer or even icecream (when in freezer mode ) . The only time a 3 way fridge is better is when you are stationary for a few days and can run the fridge on lpg which only uses a pilot light sized flame for the thermal element , for on the go travelling you cant beat a 12V compressor fridge.

    On my last trip away i would turn the fridge off at night and then back on in the morning at which time it had only got up to 4C, didnt really need to turn it off with the 105AH auxiliary battery i have in the disco.

  6. The twin under floor " scuba tanks " is a common conversion here when cargo space is still required, that leaves you with a 35ltr petrol tank in the 1/4 panel and about 70ltrs of lpg usable for a range of around 350klms.

    I had this setup in 2 x RRC's but with twin sill mounted 45ltr petrol tanks giving me a total range of over 1000klms for a carby vehicle.

  7. Never heard of this mod?

    Over heating says airlock, head gasket, blocked radiator (internally or externally).

    Its not something that is required up north but down here its a common mod, usually done when the tanks are removed from the core so they can be rodded out (manual cleaning of the individual tubes ).

  8. We didnt get any tdi RRC's so yeah it was out of a D1, what vehicle is it going into ? I was up at Amphitheatre and Avoca in October and did some tracks in the Pyrenees , nice country around there.

    Lots of people run aftermarket coolers especially if they towing so wont be hard to find something to fit same with intercooler's , since its not going back into a disco you can use anything of a similar or larger size.

  9. Yep , pipe from vac pump goes to booster and the oil lines from oil filter housing go to the in radiator oil cooler. They use a viscous fan clutch but no thermo fans unless aircon is fitted,the shroud is shaped around the rad and intercooler which sat side by side.

    Looking at the turbo from passenger side of engine bay, the turbo would be left of center and mounted to the underside of manifold.

    This is a discovery manifold.

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  10. There's a few that will bolt onto the current 200 Defender manifold, sadly I lost the list on my laptop last time it went tits up. And I've not had chance to look it all up again. There basically the turbo from the 2.8 TGV with different turbine housings on them.

    There are a few VW/Audi turbo's that will bolt up, 2056V comes to mind. I couldnt find anything locally with the same housing pattern so i picked up a GT2260V off a BMW M57 cheap that i will adapt to a 200TDI manifold for my 300TDI , its a little on the big side but a mate has fitted 2 to TD5's and they go like **** off a shovel so its worth a couple of mods to make it fit.

  11. Thanks again for valuable input.

    Dave64

    Hi Dave, i would remove the glow plugs and may squirt a small amount of oil down the pots and turn the crank by hand until you feel it free up a little , as the others have said there is no need to prime the inj pump as it will self prime pretty quick once it runs.

    You said it was out of range rover but i think it will be either from a Defender or a discovery as oz didnt get any tdi range rovers, main way to tell is which way does the turbo mount, above the manifold is Defender and below near alternator is Discovery.

    They are a good little motor and perfect to swap into a series landy or early range rover.

  12. Flatdog flexi's are the go, some silicone and some thick strips of rubber to seal up the rear door gaps helps to make a neater job. Also some pinch weld to cover the inner door area.

    Bit hard to see but the shot of the door open you can just make out the 10MM square rubber strip i siliconed into the opening to prevent water ingress.

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