Lightning

I’ve got a similar question l have fitted Puma seats in my 110 TD5 and have a pristine unmarked set of TD5 County cloth front seats in the garage, unlikely to ever be refitted. I was going to put them on Ebay but the XS TD5 front seats l sold recently (not quite as good as these but not bad) didn’t make much at all. These we’re out of the missus’s 90 which we sold last year, l had fitted aftermarket seats and the buyer preferred them to the original ones. What would an unmarked pair of TD5 techno cloth front seats with head rests be worth?

I’m assuming the vehicle was OK after this work was done?

Will the standard wiring (no relay) cope with twin OE high/low horns ? Our XS had a twin horn and it was great, but my CSW has only a single honker.

The heater in my missus’s 90 TD5 soon produces warm air from a cold start, but it just doesn’t heat the cab very much. The door seals are all good, and there’s no leaks. The heater in my 110 SW is better, in that it seems to output more air. I checked the heater in the 90 and it all looks fine, but the 110 is definitely better for some reason.

You need about 2kw to heat the interior of a Defender, 800w probably wouldn’t be enough even if you had enough battery power.

Easy things first. Have you checked/replaced the gearbox and transfer box oil?

Looks like a TDCi? ln the TD5 you can change from high to low range and back while stationary (in neutral or in gear with the clutch pedal down) When moving and in gear you need to be doing walking speed or slower, press the clutch and shift the lever between high/low as required

I would be tempted to change the oil and leave it. Monitor from time to time but only take it apart if it gets noisy or develops excessive play, you won’t be able to re build it yourself anyway without special tools. The rear diff was “moaning” on my 110 TD5 when l bought it on 56,000 miles. l changed the oil (and have changed it again since) but it’s now done 114,000 miles and is no worse.

You don’t need to spend £40,000 Last week l bought a very nice 2005 TD5 XS SW for £14,500 The chassis is the cleanest l’ve seen on a TD5 lt needed a few bits and pieces (front bumper, drive shafts, rear brakes) which l’ve already done. lts currently in for the only bodywork it needs, a bit of oxidation on the rear below the windows. And the rear door has been damaged sometime in the past by someone hitting the spare wheel on something while reversing. So a new rear door as well. So a pristine Defender SW with all the XS extras for £16,000

If both pins of the motor are showing live, it means that the circuit is earth switched. I assume the motor has a live feed on one of the pins, if you connect the other pin to earth the motor should run.

I tell you what, we had exactly the same fault on our 300tdi and after replacing the gearbox selectors, master cylinder and slave cylinder (which made no difference whatsoever) As a last resort l was about to replace the gearbox completely lt turned out to be the clutch. After a new one was fitted, it was transformed and the gears engaged smooth as butter.

Sadly this can’t be done on a TD5 Only option is to fit cruise control.

So is it worth using premium diesel in my TD5? l was never sure if there was any point paying the extra 10p a litre, but someone on this thread said they get 11% better economy when using it.

£1500 - £2000?

You are best contacting Mike at Dynachip. He knows pretty much everything about Defender ECU’s and will be able to sort you out. Also he will call out to you anywhere in the UK and is a fair bit cheaper than most others.

Ours did this, and l tried all sorts of solutions ln the end it turned out to be the rubber seals on the small roof windows, although they looked alright. Replacing the seals cured the leak.

I fitted the adjustable shocks and tbh never touch them, l did try them on the firm setting once, but just ended up at the softest setting. In that position the ride quality is better than standard and it’s great on the road unless you are driving flat out round corners on bad roads, which l never do anyway.

If you want OE you can get a set of new take-off for around £60 You can’t go wrong at that price.

What about the Terrafirma adjustable ones that l recommended? You can alter them according to the type of terrain and they do work very well (on my 2005 110 CSW)

Why not fit OE for £120 all in...they are good springs. Make sure you tell them what model you have (Utility, SW, etc) as they are different rated. For dampers you could go brand new OE take-off from LR Surplus for about £60 all in lf not l recommend the Terrafirma ones as they are adjustable for the type of ride quality that you want. And fit some Disco 2 front spring isolators....every little helps.

I just called Twisted and their “take off” section is run by “LR Surplus Parts” on 07533 377974 They have in stock 100 BRAND NEW DELIVERY MILES DEFENDERS ready for Twisted customers to buy and have blinged up. So plenty of springs (100 sets!) wheels, engines etc (currently 30 delivery mileage 2.2 TDCi take-off engines on the shelf) No body panels etc, only the kind of parts that people would want upgrading such as wheels, seats, suspension, transmission

The springs were brand new take-off, but these will be getting scarce as new Defenders are no longer being made of course.But l only got them in September 2018 (from Twisted Automotive LTD) The Terrafirma shocks have been fine, 30,000 miles and still working. l have them on the softest of the 4 settings and the ride is better. The second setting is supposed to be standard LR OE. so you have one softer setting and two firmer ones. l tried it on the firmest and it was a pretty hard ride.

I fitted a set of TDCi 110 SW springs to my 110 TD5 SW. They were new “take off” from one of the companies who bling up Defenders and cost £100 for 4. l also fitted Terrafirma 4 way adjustable shocks all round and Discovery spring isolators to the front. Shocks were £260 for the set and isolators about £30 After this the ride quality was noticeably better. l posted this at the time on a couple of forums but it was pretty much ignored, a surprise when l described how it made the 110 so much better to drive.

Silly question but.....can’t you just fit a new dash top?

If you remove the front prop shaft, you will get no drive to the rear one As drive will all be diverted to the output with least resistance