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About Speedy_Gonzales

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    Cheshire, England
  1. Hi All, Im looking to try and rent a roof tent / roof rack for a UK trip in the last week of June 2014. I have a Defender TD5 110. Does anyone have a good quality roof tent and rack that they would consider renting to me for a week, so I can try it out before I commit to the expense of buying one myself? Im North Cheshire based, and will be travelling to Cornwall. Many thanks for looking, please PM me any further info. Thanks Jamie
  2. Thanks Pete, thats a really nice gesture, not sure exactly where you are? Anyone nearer than Pete that can help, beer tokens for takers?!!
  3. Hi, Im looking for someone local to me who has nanocom or equivalent, I need to sync a fob with the alarm on my Defender TD5. Can anyone help? Im currently based over near Wilmslow / Macclesfield way. Many thanks in advance Jamie
  4. Both the rad and the intercooler were bent like a banana (must have had some impact at some point before I bought her, and all the alloy veins were pretty much destroyed
  5. Quick update on this... Had been perusing various threads on the engine / turbo issue for what felt like an eternity... Seems lots have people have lots of opinions which makes [internet] diagnosis very difficult.. hmmm ^^^ Anyway, started with the obvious, had a play with the actuator and using a great technique I found on another forum, I used a bike pump attached to the actuator inlet to ensure that it extends at the proper boost pressure (1.0 bar), tried differing variations of disconnecting MAF / MAP etc, also checked out the air inlet (found a dead blue tit in there, must have made its way into my snorkel!), and made sure the ECU had no oil presence... Conclusion? Tiny bit of oil on one of the contacts (will keep an eye on that), cleaned up with contact solution, replaced rad and intercooler (massive difference, old intercooler was knackered).. Turbo seems to be working properly (has some side to side movement which Im led to believe is normal as no obvious marks on the turbo housing, bit no end to end movement which is indicative of major problems). Cleaned out intercooler system and surprise surprise, I have what appears to be a properly functioning TD5 engine :D :D :D :D Engine is not smoking anymore (residual oil?!!), though still got the mechanical aspect to deal with: - 5th gear whine - Backlash in diffs - Steering issues Looks like Im finally making some headway, thumbs up Jamie
  6. Thanks for the input guys Mark, I'd kind of made the decision to go down this route before I read the comments posted here, she had a fair bit of work done last year, discs and pads, props etc.. and I've put a bit of effort into other areas so I might as well keep her and get her sorted out bit by bit, I reckon as its a Landy it could be a never ending affair! Fully agree that smart sourcing and getting my hands dirty is the way to go...I've managed to source a cheap intercooler and rad and Im now on the hunt for other parts, I've found front diffs (only) costing about £65, rear Salisbury is probably going to cost me somewhere in the region of £350+, Turbo is available new for around £400ish and I've a friend who welds who I could call upon for the rear x-member. I reckon a new clutch is on the cards too at some point and theres a bit of a whine in 5th gear... It never ends!!! Any input on re-skinning of doors? Is there a tech post on here anywhere? I guess I just need to move forward one job at a time starting with the biggies! Jamie
  7. Not visited for a while but here goes... My 110 TD5 (Special Vehicles) has seen some down time as I've been busy working away, bless her, poor girl needs some TLC, actually more like lots of £££ and time/effort to get her back into fighting shape... So therein lies the debate: 2000 TD5, bought on 145k 4 years ago, now on160k. Ex EA van which has been kept in good mechanical working order. I've spent a few bob on her since I got her (which I probably wouldnt get back but I can split parts), add on's mainly steroid related, i.e: decent lift & shocks, wheels, 8274 winch and bumper, underbody protection, uprated steering etc, but she's now in need of quite a bit of mechanical work: - Turbo is on its way out (fait bit lateral of turbine movement), she's blowing a tiny bit of blue and needs a replacement rad and intercooler too. - Front and rear diffs are in need of rebuild / replacement (rear is Salisbury), a bit of backlash in there between them. - Rear crossmember looks like puff pastry, rear safari door is pretty rotten too. - Engine is pretty dry, but needs a new rocker cover gasket and perhaps some stem seals too in the near future, Im hoping smoke is just turbo and not engine related. - Bodywork is pretty beaten in places, but she's a Land-rover after all, maybe a freshen up would be good, can probably do it on the cheap with mates. Debating whether to sell and move on or invest and keep? Options: Replacement turbo / intercooler would be prepared to invest in upgrade with remap - any suggestions? Don't want it to cost the earth, but if Im going to spend money on new parts is it worth spending a little extra to get better performance and fuel economy? Front diff replacement shouldn't cost too much, replacement salisbury seems the only way to go which is a bit of a ball-ache, can probably do bulk of this type of work myself, but I will probably be slower than someone who has knowledge / specific tools for the job. Trying to convince myself but just not sure, any experiences either way may possibly help we weight up the pro's and con's. Thanks in advance Jamie
  8. Hi, I need to Resynchronise my keyfob with the alarm ECU (Lucas 3TXA), Ive heard this is possible via Nanocom or equivalent??? Is anyone close to me (Warrington area) that can do this relatively cheaply? Please PM me if you can. Thanks Jamie
  9. Thanks Simon, actually mine is the 3TXB fob, but I think they are more or less the same. I tried the procedure you suggested, but its still not communicating Hey Ozzie, I rang the dealers and was able to get the 4 digit EKA code for my Defender, this allows me to bypass the immobiliser using the method above and start the vehicle, but the fob still wont work! Im going to ring the dealers again next week and see if there is a re-sync process I can use... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Going to try resynching the fob to the alarm ECU via Rovacom / Nanocom or equivalent as its costly elsewhere... Thanks for your help
  10. It was taking ages to arm and unarm the alarm which is normally a battery issue, so I replaced the battery away from the truck.. Brought it back to the truck to open and it wouldnt work full stop, no flashing lights, no imobilisation... Nada!!! Yes, I now realise this wasnt the smartest thing to do!!!
  11. Hi all, The keyfob has stopped working on my Defender and I dont have the immobiliser number to start it manually! Is this number available from the stealers and / or is there a way of re-pairing (if that is required) the fob with the alarm unit? Thanks for any help. Regards jamie
  12. I was with AF for a couple of years on both my Landy (with mods) and performance car. They seemed to be okay though I didn't make a claim through them, that was until the following: The landy was (supposed to be) insured for all mods including winch etc (I sent them a letter outlining all modifications/extras etc), yet after a year and on renewal they told me that my winch and winch bumper was not actually covered despite the fact that it was part of the listed items I had sent them when they quoted me! Needless to say I was pretty pi$$ed off that I had gone a whole years insurance without actually being covered for items that I had submitted to be covered in the original quote...tut tut... AF no more, I've been with NFU ever since, though even their prices appear to be creeping up as of late
  13. Hi All, Just wanted to get a view of peoples experiences replacing the rear crossmember on a TD5 110... Mine is pretty rotted and the MOT is due soon, I have a feeling it might not pass this time around I've heard that they are a real bummer to fit and that the quality of many of the aftermarket replacement crossmember's leaves a lot to be desired. What are the pro's and con's of self fitting versus paying someone to do it for you? Obviously cost is likely to be higher, but is it worth paying someone for the hassle? Is there somewhere you can buy a good replacement crossmember or even get one fabricated? All input appreciated. Many thanks in advance Jamie
  14. Sorry, thats what I meant! Looks like the existing bolt threads on the housing are 1/4 UNC, whereas the champion motor bolts are 6mm and about 40mm longer ...
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