[Defender Roof Tent Hire?]

Hi All,

Im looking to try and rent a roof tent / roof rack for a UK trip in the last week of June 2014. I have a Defender TD5 110.

Does anyone have a good quality roof tent and rack that they would consider renting to me for a week, so I can try it out before I commit to the expense of buying one myself?

Im North Cheshire based, and will be travelling to Cornwall.

Many thanks for looking, please PM me any further info.

Thanks

Jamie

[Nanocom Help]

I'm the other side of the country from you but will help out if I can.

Pete.

Thanks Pete, thats a really nice gesture, not sure exactly where you are?

Anyone nearer than Pete that can help, beer tokens for takers?!!

[Nanocom Help]

Hi,

Im looking for someone local to me who has nanocom or equivalent, I need to sync a fob with the alarm on my Defender TD5.

Can anyone help?

Im currently based over near Wilmslow / Macclesfield way.

Many thanks in advance

Jamie

[To be or not to be?]

can't see how a intercooler can wear out, more likely needs a really good internal clean.

Both the rad and the intercooler were bent like a banana (must have had some impact at some point before I bought her, and all the alloy veins were pretty much destroyed

[To be or not to be?]

Quick update on this...

Had been perusing various threads on the engine / turbo issue for what felt like an eternity... Seems lots have people have lots of opinions which makes [internet] diagnosis very difficult.. hmmm ^^^

Anyway, started with the obvious, had a play with the actuator and using a great technique I found on another forum, I used a bike pump attached to the actuator inlet to ensure that it extends at the proper boost pressure (1.0 bar), tried differing variations of disconnecting MAF / MAP etc, also checked out the air inlet (found a dead blue tit in there, must have made its way into my snorkel!), and made sure the ECU had no oil presence...

Conclusion?

Tiny bit of oil on one of the contacts (will keep an eye on that), cleaned up with contact solution, replaced rad and intercooler (massive difference, old intercooler was knackered).. Turbo seems to be working properly (has some side to side movement which Im led to believe is normal as no obvious marks on the turbo housing, bit no end to end movement which is indicative of major problems). Cleaned out intercooler system and surprise surprise, I have what appears to be a properly functioning TD5 engine :D :D :D :D

Engine is not smoking anymore (residual oil?!!), though still got the mechanical aspect to deal with:

- 5th gear whine

- Backlash in diffs

- Steering issues

Looks like Im finally making some headway, thumbs up

Jamie

[To be or not to be?]

Thanks for the input guys

Mark, I'd kind of made the decision to go down this route before I read the comments posted here, she had a fair bit of work done last year, discs and pads, props etc.. and I've put a bit of effort into other areas so I might as well keep her and get her sorted out bit by bit, I reckon as its a Landy it could be a never ending affair!

Fully agree that smart sourcing and getting my hands dirty is the way to go...I've managed to source a cheap intercooler and rad and Im now on the hunt for other parts, I've found front diffs (only) costing about £65, rear Salisbury is probably going to cost me somewhere in the region of £350+, Turbo is available new for around £400ish and I've a friend who welds who I could call upon for the rear x-member.

I reckon a new clutch is on the cards too at some point and theres a bit of a whine in 5th gear... It never ends!!!

Any input on re-skinning of doors? Is there a tech post on here anywhere? I guess I just need to move forward one job at a time starting with the biggies!

Jamie

[To be or not to be?]

Not visited for a while but here goes...

My 110 TD5 (Special Vehicles) has seen some down time as I've been busy working away, bless her, poor girl needs some TLC, actually more like lots of £££ and time/effort to get her back into fighting shape...

So therein lies the debate: 2000 TD5, bought on 145k 4 years ago, now on160k. Ex EA van which has been kept in good mechanical working order.

I've spent a few bob on her since I got her (which I probably wouldnt get back but I can split parts), add on's mainly steroid related, i.e: decent lift & shocks, wheels, 8274 winch and bumper, underbody protection, uprated steering etc, but she's now in need of quite a bit of mechanical work:

- Turbo is on its way out (fait bit lateral of turbine movement), she's blowing a tiny bit of blue and needs a replacement rad and intercooler too.

- Front and rear diffs are in need of rebuild / replacement (rear is Salisbury), a bit of backlash in there between them.

- Rear crossmember looks like puff pastry, rear safari door is pretty rotten too.

- Engine is pretty dry, but needs a new rocker cover gasket and perhaps some stem seals too in the near future, Im hoping smoke is just turbo and not engine related.

- Bodywork is pretty beaten in places, but she's a Land-rover after all, maybe a freshen up would be good, can probably do it on the cheap with mates.

Debating whether to sell and move on or invest and keep?

Options: Replacement turbo / intercooler would be prepared to invest in upgrade with remap - any suggestions? Don't want it to cost the earth, but if Im going to spend money on new parts is it worth spending a little extra to get better performance and fuel economy?

Front diff replacement shouldn't cost too much, replacement salisbury seems the only way to go which is a bit of a ball-ache, can probably do bulk of this type of work myself, but I will probably be slower than someone who has knowledge / specific tools for the job.

Trying to convince myself but just not sure, any experiences either way may possibly help we weight up the pro's and con's.

Thanks in advance

Jamie

[Keyfob resynchronisation with Nanocom]

Hi,

I need to Resynchronise my keyfob with the alarm ECU (Lucas 3TXA), Ive heard this is possible via Nanocom or equivalent???

Is anyone close to me (Warrington area) that can do this relatively cheaply?

Please PM me if you can.

Thanks

Jamie

[TD5 Keyfob issue]

My link

Assuming you have the same fob as me, lucas 17TN

Thanks Simon, actually mine is the 3TXB fob, but I think they are more or less the same. I tried the procedure you suggested, but its still not communicating

If you only have one fob and the immobiliser re-arms during the battery change you have to go through the re-synchronisation, which involves turning the key in the ignition numerous times and opening/closing the drivers door repeatedly."

For now you will have to try the above, although I believe there is a resyncronisation procedure you can use if that doesn't work. What that is and where to find it I don't know - but a quick call to a LR garage may help.

Hey Ozzie,

I rang the dealers and was able to get the 4 digit EKA code for my Defender, this allows me to bypass the immobiliser using the method above and start the vehicle, but the fob still wont work! Im going to ring the dealers again next week and see if there is a re-sync process I can use...

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Going to try resynching the fob to the alarm ECU via Rovacom / Nanocom or equivalent as its costly elsewhere...

Thanks for your help

[TD5 Keyfob issue]

How did it stop working?

It was taking ages to arm and unarm the alarm which is normally a battery issue, so I replaced the battery away from the truck..

Brought it back to the truck to open and it wouldnt work full stop, no flashing lights, no imobilisation... Nada!!!

Yes, I now realise this wasnt the smartest thing to do!!!

[TD5 Keyfob issue]

Hi all,

The keyfob has stopped working on my Defender and I dont have the immobiliser number to start it manually!

Is this number available from the stealers and / or is there a way of re-pairing (if that is required) the fob with the alarm unit?

Thanks for any help.

Regards

jamie

[ADRIAN FLUX 4X4 INSURANCE]

I was with AF for a couple of years on both my Landy (with mods) and performance car.

They seemed to be okay though I didn't make a claim through them, that was until the following:

The landy was (supposed to be) insured for all mods including winch etc (I sent them a letter outlining all modifications/extras etc), yet after a year and on renewal they told me that my winch and winch bumper was not actually covered despite the fact that it was part of the listed items I had sent them when they quoted me!

Needless to say I was pretty pi$$ed off that I had gone a whole years insurance without actually being covered for items that I had submitted to be covered in the original quote...tut tut...

AF no more, I've been with NFU ever since, though even their prices appear to be creeping up as of late

[110 Rear Crossmember Replacement]

Thanks for the guidance Y'all as ever

[110 Rear Crossmember Replacement]

Hi All,

Just wanted to get a view of peoples experiences replacing the rear crossmember on a TD5 110...

Mine is pretty rotted and the MOT is due soon, I have a feeling it might not pass this time around

I've heard that they are a real bummer to fit and that the quality of many of the aftermarket replacement crossmember's leaves a lot to be desired.

What are the pro's and con's of self fitting versus paying someone to do it for you? Obviously cost is likely to be higher, but is it worth paying someone for the hassle?

Is there somewhere you can buy a good replacement crossmember or even get one fabricated?

All input appreciated.

Many thanks in advance

Jamie

[8274 Motor Bolts]

you need bolts to match the 8274 housing.

Sorry, thats what I meant!

Looks like the existing bolt threads on the housing are 1/4 UNC, whereas the champion motor bolts are 6mm and about 40mm longer ...

[8274 Motor Bolts]

I bought a new champion 6.5HP motor to replace the standard warn 4hp motor in my 8274 at the weekend..

The attachment bolts that come with the new motor are not only longer in length but they are a different thread diameter (I think the original 8274 motor bolts are imperial and the ones in the new champion motor metric).

Anyone know where I can get the right bolts to fit this motor?

Thanks

Jamie

[TD5 Turbo actuator]

With or without the actuator (vacuum valve)?

The actuator has a massive spring inside, which holds the wastegate closed until the desired boost pressure is reached, so if your trying to move it with the actuator still fitted it will be extremely hard to move.

With the actuator..

Thanks, it was seized at the wastegate side (yet again!), there is a 90 degree arm on mine with a linkage that is prone to locking up over time, WD40 and high heat copper grease soon sorted that out..

If you have a sluggish TD5 in 5th gear or its doing the kangaroo, this is a common problem...

Cheers

[TD5 Turbo actuator]

The wastegate rod/arm that feeds into the actuator (starts under the heat shield on the turbo) on my TD5 is really stiff and only moves when quite a lot of force is applied to it...

Is this typical or have I got an issue here?

Thanks

Jamie

[Grinding noise help]

Do you mean play between the pinion and crownwheel? (the flange turns a bit before the wheels move).

Les.

Yes Les, you got it... Its worse in the front diff...

Thanks for your help.

P.S: Noise I originally thought was a prop turned out to be wheel bearings on the front, near side is particularly bad..

[Grinding noise help]

Clunking from a wheel hub on full lock is usually a busted or badly worn CV joint (maybe wheel bearing too). If it's a cv, then be careful - the broken bits can jam and lock the steering.

Les.

Thanks Les, much appreciated.

In respect of diff slapping, is this an easy job to replace in a salisbury rear axle?

[Grinding noise help]

Was off road today and encountered a grinding noise whilst in low ratio (not in diff lock)

On fairly easy ground after an ascent using low ratio box (used low ratio diff lock for about 30 seconds to get over a rock step), started making a grinding noise (coming from front) sounded like someone underneath with an angle grinder / drill!

This was at low speed, only whilst moving in gear, it ceased once I moved back to high ratio.

Alo when I reached the base of the route and got back on the main road, as I turned left there was a series of clunking noises from what appeared to be the OSF wheel. Only did this the once.

Any ideas or starting points? (110 TD5 Hardtop...)

I've had another problem for a while which is a really bad vibration at around 65-67mph, new front prop going on tomorrow to try and rectify this, will check gear/transfer-box levels whilst i'm there and see if theres any movement in hubs (wheel bearing).

Im also getting a lot of slap in the rear diff when changing gear, how hard is it to replace the salisbury diff internals?

Thanks in advance

Jamie

[TD5 Chassis]

As per thread title, a lot of rust is starting to appear on the TD5, it regularly gets used off road so Ive not bothered with any treatments as it inevitably only comes off! The rear x-member is starting to look in a bit of a state too!

Am I best just letting it go for the next few years and then replacing with a galv, or treating it now, can I apply anything directly to avoid having to mess around with wire brushing etc?

All input appreciated

Jamie

[Hard Top Insurance]

Hi Guys,

I bought a Hard Top, thinking I could just change my normal car insurance to cover the vehicle. When I gave the reg no. they said that they were unable to ensure commercial vehicles, so I had to fork out for seperate commercial insurance, which is more expensive, and crappy!

My question is, what makes this vehicle commercial? On my new V5 it only says "PLG" which is what my normal cars V5 states.

I plan to put CSW sides on at the back at some point, but presumably that has little to do with it in reality?

Has anybody got a HT insured normally? If so, how did you do it?

Thanks!

As all of the above, I have a PLG hardtop (Special vehicle, ex environment agency) insured via NFU, about £250ish Fully comp.

Be careful with other insurers like Adrian Flux, they told me I was insured for all my mods, but when I came to renew it turns out I wasnt... Hmmmm....

I just printed out a list of Mods for NFU, they had no problems at all And Im covered for green laning!

Highly recommended...

[Eberspacher in a TD5]

well i am sorry for giving you a 'bum steer' i was only trying to help, that was the part i used to fit a wesbato to my td5 90 and it comes up on my EPC (which is 3mths old) as the same part i used, a pipe that drops in through the nipple in the top of the tank sender unit to the bottom (ish) of the tank. i will remind myself not to bother next time.

JST, no offence intended mate, someone else gave me this code number too!!! I was only trying to be helpful too!

The stealers came back with the 3" pipe when I submitted the code number to them, though apparently there is another pipe also (the dealer acknowledged this but could'nt find it on Microcat).. Might be a microcat issue if it showing up on the latest version...

Do you have the code number for the plastic pipe?

[Eberspacher in a TD5]

The 30 & 40 codes are used to differentiate between leftcand right hand drive, not sure what difference that would

make to the hose mind!

£5.36 + vat direct from the stealers.

Thanks y'all:)

Gents this is a bum steer and doesnt appear to be the right part, its just a 3" piece of rubber hose, going to get creative and try something like Pete the Pilot has suggested above instead...