Speedy_Gonzales

Thanks Les

My 2000 TD5 has been losing water for a while, not a significant amount, but enough that it needs checking every couple of days... I couldnt work out where I was losing it as there were no obvious leak areas or leakage under the engine bay !?! One thing I haver noticed recently is a small pool of water in the drivers footwell, directly under the downward heat vent, and the heater does seem down on heat.. Now I know 'its a landy' and the heaters are carp and I always presumed that a small amount of water in the footwell was just down to water ingress through the door seals... Anyone had similar experiences? How do I go about checking the matrix and if it is the heater matrix how do I repair it? Thanks in advance Jamie

Agreed! I've been looking for a kit for my 2000 TD5 I've heard that sealing the ECU in a box and then using a breather to reduce condensation might be the way forward... Has anyone gone down this route? Would be intrested to know further....

I have similar on cold startup of my TD5, blue smokes a little and then is fine... Is this likely to be oil ingress through valve oil seals? Its done nearly 150k... Jamie

Will take a look, thanks JST

Haha Nick... very funny

I accept it is not urgent and that patience is a virtue, but out of 188 views there have only been 2 [constructive] replies... I think a bump to keep it at the the top of the posts for attention is justified (okay maybe 3 hours was a bit quick!)... sorry if that upsets you... I am new here and the etiquette of bumping on forums is not normally an issue on other forums I use, if it is such an issue on LR I will in future refrain from doing so! I have used the LR search engine and cannot find any information on Albright copies, though that may simply be down to the keywords I have used? Hmmm

Bump (at the risk of getting told off by the mods!)

The activator rod appears to be alloy also, which is probably why it sticks, I imagine that surface oxidisation and dirt clunks things up, strange that its not a service item given this design!

Heres a pic indicating the turbo activator. the rod can be seen coming out of the back

I quote minesapint: "With ref to where it is located. It is on the top of the engine a bit hidden on the nearside of the vehicle. Look for a small zinc plated cylinder about 2 inches diameter and 2 inches long with a 3/4mm shaft protruding from it. When the engine reaches the appropriate engine revs the shaft should move to engage the turbo. I believe your problem is that this shaft is seized. You will need to lubricate it and work it in and out. This is possible using a screwdriver and part of the engine as a lever." It sits right on top of top of the turbo, with a rod that protrudes from inside it and goes under the heat shield to a mechanism. Spray WD40 all over the rod and where it locates into activator, then apply pressure to the nut half way down the rod (it meets a plastic tensioner on my mine) in the direction of the bulkhead, it should move with a bit of force... Hope this helps.

Hey Minesa, I have one of the same age and it too is starting to look at bit shabby in places. I imagine the requirements are to take back aluminium to base and apply some kind of anti oxidising treatment, then prime and spray. Where steel parts are rusting, same applies but instead utilising some form of anti rust treatment. Im sure someone will be along shortly with exact specifics, as this is just a high level overview of what is required. Jamie

A couple of months back, I bought what was advertised as an 'Allbright Solenoid' from a reputable company on fleabay, as it was slightly cheaper than the likes of gigglepin etc... It has been fitted on the truck but not used as I have still not fitted my [new] winch.. At the weekend, I compared it to a friends solenoid (which is an 'Allbright Solenoid', it has the allbright stickers etc), and was suprised to discover that although it is more or less identical in every way, it is in fact a copy... I searched around a bit and found out that it was in fact an EP solenioid (Allbright copy), as used by Superwinch.. My question is this: Are these solenoids as good (reliable etc) as the allbrights, or are they an inferior copy? They look the part, but do they cut the mustard? Would be interested to hear of any experiences, as I have rung the e-bay seller and told him that I am not happy that this was advertised as an allbright when in fact it is not. I have grounds to return it and get my money back whilst this is still unused. Thanks in advance for any help Jamie

I agree, though the info from minesapint was invaluable, having experienced it himself before he knew the symtoms (Sp?)... I knew it could have been half a dozen things having performed a search and read loads of other forum posts before posting myself...

Well it looks like good news! Just had a play with the turbo activator and cleaned up the movement, took it for a spin and problem seems to have gone <fingers crossed!> Many thanks to Minesapint, and if we meet up some time, yours is certainly a pint! Thanks for all the feedback, big up to the LR4x4 massif!

Used it again today and it was just doing it in 5th.... Somewhere [roughly] between 60 and 70 (never the same speed though).... It is still intermittent though, sometimes it doesnt do it, sometimes it does, sometimes it will allow me to put my foot down and get up to 80, other times it struggles getting past 65-70... Any ideas?? Thanks

"Computer says Noooooo"!!! No worries, I guess I should check other issues first and follow the elimination process... Thanks for this

No offence taken Jimmy, its just that I read something similar on another thread and every man and his dog had an answer for what it could have been! If id have gone down that route, I would probably have rebuilt the engine by now!!! I will start with the suggestions made (thankyou to you all for your advice) and see where it gets me prior to checking out fault codes with nanocom etc.. Cheers Jamie

Hi, Im based in the North West (Cheshire), need to run a fault code check against my TD5 but dont want to pay out the £200 to buy one!!! Looking for someone who can run a check with their Nanocom or Rovercom for me, I will travel to you, happy to pay token gesture... Any helpers? Thanks Jamie

Reply to All, This is why I asked the question of whether it would be preferential to run Nanocom or similar on it first... It could be any or all of the above reasons!!!! Potentials list to date: * Injector Harness * Injectors * Turbo Activator * Fuel Pump Hmmm......

Doesnt really answer my query Jimmy, but thanks... Does anyone local to Cheshire have a Nanocom that they would be preapred to plug into my TD5, happy to travel to you!

2000 TD5 Defender, ran perfectly previously but: Started yesterday, in 4th and 5th (though most noticable in 5th between 60 & 70 mph) gear there seems to be a slight misfire which seemed initially like fuel starvation. Took her for a good run out to the Peak District today and she seems quite sluggish going uphill and on the motorway, at times struggling to hit 70 when in the past cruising at 70 was fine. Ive had a good look through the forums but it appears it could be all manner of things from injector harness to ECU.. Any ideas where I should start? Am I best getting the fault codes read first or using a process of elimination to discover the issue? RE: Fault Codes - are there any cheaper alternatives to Nanocom or Rovercom? Thanks in advance Jamie

You have mail Mike..

Thanks

I'm looking for a small quantity of 4mm thick steel (about 60cm x 30cm) for fabrication, but cant seem to find any local suppliers (north west england). The stuff I am after is similar to the plates used on the back of the rear door wheel mounts. Plus what kind of price would this retail at? Any help appreciated.. Thanks Jamie