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Scandi

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    Nairobi

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  1. Today I weighed my TD5 engine on an accurate digital platform scale. It was 244 kgs including flywheel and clutch.
  2. Hi, and thanks for your input. I was thinking the bendix clutch is buggered, but why is it working just as it should when I test it in the vise? I am unable to find a replacement part for this particular starter (Valio) here in Nairobi so I decided to get a new starter and that has worked well. Lars
  3. Hi Steve, Thanks for a quick response. I have been thinking just that, but I'm a bit sceptical since I have put great load on the sprocket when holding the shaft in a vise while trying to turn the sprocket with a pipe wrench. It won't budge even a bit one direction and is completely free the other.
  4. Happy New Year! I'm experiencing an unusual problem with my 200Tdi 1993 110 Defender. The last few weeks I have noted when turning the key, the starter kicks in and whirrs but does not turn over the engine. After a couple of attempts it eventually starts fine. Now however it refuses to engage just about all the time. It is a Valio starter. I have taken it out as I thought the bendix might be gunked up on the shaft, but no. I have stripped, cleaned and reassembled it. I can move the bendix out all the way by hand without any difficulty other than the solenoid return spring. Bench testing also show the drive sprocket throwing out with force all the way and motor turning on as would be expected. I also thought the sprocket might be slipping in the one way coupling, but no. I'm unable to make it slip even when mounted in a vise and with a big wrench. When putting it back in the car it still does not seem to engage the flywheel. The teeth on flywheel and starter look fine although it has done some nearly 400,000 km. Any ideas? Lars Svensson Nairobi
  5. Misfire sorted! A few days ago I replaced the injector harness, injector o-rings and copper washers. After reassembly I ran the fuel purging process three times and started the engine. It took perhaps 15 seconds or so to have the first few cylinders to fire and after that they came on one by one with a big white cloud of smoke from the exhaust. The vehicle been driven some 100km since then and there are no signs of misfire. It is running smoother than before the misfire appeared. All in all a much better vehicle than before. I'm not sure how long it will last but so far so good. Scandi
  6. Thanks Lightning for that info. I will replace the harness as you say since it's an easy and quick job. At the same time I can check the injector seals and replace the top gasket since it's leaking a bit. Lars
  7. Hi Jabber, and thanks for the input. I haven't connected it to look for fault codes yet, but will do so when I can find someone with the right equipment. There is no oil at the "red plug" nor is there any at the top of the harness where it connects to the cylinder head at the front of the engine. I bought the vehicle a couple of years ago and don't have any records of any replaced harness, but having no traces of oil is at least a good sign. My plan is to open up the top cover and check for any chaffing of the wiring or any other suspicious stuff. Lars
  8. My 2004 Td5 has started to misfire (actually no firing at all) on one cylinder but only when engine is warmed up after 5-10 minutes or so. When cold it runs smooth. I have checked the injector harness for oil leaks but can with confidence say there is no evidence of leaks even at the top. Bone dry. Checking the temperature of the exhaust manifold it is clear it is cylinder 1 that is playing up as it is a lot cooler there. Any leads on this anyone? Lars
  9. Ok, thanks Joris. That's a pity. The Torque App would have been so nice to use.
  10. Hi, I like to know if there are anyone out there having been successful using a Bluetooth/USB adapter to read data from the ECU with the "Torque" App. I have a late 2004 Defender TD5. Info I have so far is that the Defender ECU is coded in such a way that available standard adapter can't read the data. Is this a fact? If so, what adapters are available if any?
  11. Maybe they are just trying to save on weight with those plastic bits:-)
  12. My engine is fitted with a Turbotechnics VNT and the ECU has been remapped by Bellauto but with a little less fuel than standard since I'm operating sometimes at 2,500m altitude. I will start by looking for external leaks to start with and if coolant still escapes, work myself towards the interior. Whatever I find (or not) will be posted here.
  13. At the moment I'm leaning towards having a coolant leak/low level issue rather than something electrical. I can confirm the heater coming on a lot quicker than before, after topping up the coolant. In fact I notice hot air well before the gauge reaches "steady state". I'm going to check for possible leaks but the tell-tale smell of leaking coolant is absent so hope it's because of being tiny instead of being internal.
  14. Today I made an interesting observation.While driving I noted a slight loss of power, perhaps just a second or two, as if I would release the throttle a little bit and then push it down again. at the same time just by chance I was looking at the instrument panel and noted the temperature gauge flying up into red and then immediately down to normal again matching the loss of power I noted. I'm talking of a duration of 1-2 seconds only. I also note it takes a very long time to get heat going and coming out of the vents even if engine gauge shows it's warm. When checking coolant level it was low and I had to add some 2-3 liters to get it up to level. I'm suspecting this may be reason to the sudden and momentary rise of temperature as if there has been an airlock and parts of the cylinder head has heated up due to low level and suddenly a slug of coolant is gets in contact with the hot surfaces and gets very hot and reaches the temp sensor for that short time i noted the gauge flip out. It may also explain why the heater isn't coming in as quickly as desired since the coolantdoesn't get there if pipes are empty. Does this make sense? Is the lack of power I noted perhaps a consequence of the ECU thinking the engine is overheating and making it power down as a precaution not to have it overheat further?
  15. I had the faults cleared and the fan stopped, A couple of days later the damn thing came on again and I'm sure there was no engine overheating. Are there other things that may cause this to happen? Lars
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