Scandi

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About Scandi

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  • Birthday 05/12/1956

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    Nairobi

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  1. Thanks Lightning for that info. I will replace the harness as you say since it's an easy and quick job. At the same time I can check the injector seals and replace the top gasket since it's leaking a bit. Lars
  2. Hi Jabber, and thanks for the input. I haven't connected it to look for fault codes yet, but will do so when I can find someone with the right equipment. There is no oil at the "red plug" nor is there any at the top of the harness where it connects to the cylinder head at the front of the engine. I bought the vehicle a couple of years ago and don't have any records of any replaced harness, but having no traces of oil is at least a good sign. My plan is to open up the top cover and check for any chaffing of the wiring or any other suspicious stuff. Lars
  3. My 2004 Td5 has started to misfire (actually no firing at all) on one cylinder but only when engine is warmed up after 5-10 minutes or so. When cold it runs smooth. I have checked the injector harness for oil leaks but can with confidence say there is no evidence of leaks even at the top. Bone dry. Checking the temperature of the exhaust manifold it is clear it is cylinder 1 that is playing up as it is a lot cooler there. Any leads on this anyone? Lars
  4. Ok, thanks Joris. That's a pity. The Torque App would have been so nice to use.
  5. Hi, I like to know if there are anyone out there having been successful using a Bluetooth/USB adapter to read data from the ECU with the "Torque" App. I have a late 2004 Defender TD5. Info I have so far is that the Defender ECU is coded in such a way that available standard adapter can't read the data. Is this a fact? If so, what adapters are available if any?
  6. Maybe they are just trying to save on weight with those plastic bits:-)
  7. My engine is fitted with a Turbotechnics VNT and the ECU has been remapped by Bellauto but with a little less fuel than standard since I'm operating sometimes at 2,500m altitude. I will start by looking for external leaks to start with and if coolant still escapes, work myself towards the interior. Whatever I find (or not) will be posted here.
  8. At the moment I'm leaning towards having a coolant leak/low level issue rather than something electrical. I can confirm the heater coming on a lot quicker than before, after topping up the coolant. In fact I notice hot air well before the gauge reaches "steady state". I'm going to check for possible leaks but the tell-tale smell of leaking coolant is absent so hope it's because of being tiny instead of being internal.
  9. Today I made an interesting observation.While driving I noted a slight loss of power, perhaps just a second or two, as if I would release the throttle a little bit and then push it down again. at the same time just by chance I was looking at the instrument panel and noted the temperature gauge flying up into red and then immediately down to normal again matching the loss of power I noted. I'm talking of a duration of 1-2 seconds only. I also note it takes a very long time to get heat going and coming out of the vents even if engine gauge shows it's warm. When checking coolant level it was low and I had to add some 2-3 liters to get it up to level. I'm suspecting this may be reason to the sudden and momentary rise of temperature as if there has been an airlock and parts of the cylinder head has heated up due to low level and suddenly a slug of coolant is gets in contact with the hot surfaces and gets very hot and reaches the temp sensor for that short time i noted the gauge flip out. It may also explain why the heater isn't coming in as quickly as desired since the coolantdoesn't get there if pipes are empty. Does this make sense? Is the lack of power I noted perhaps a consequence of the ECU thinking the engine is overheating and making it power down as a precaution not to have it overheat further?
  10. I had the faults cleared and the fan stopped, A couple of days later the damn thing came on again and I'm sure there was no engine overheating. Are there other things that may cause this to happen? Lars
  11. Thanks a lot for that input Ally V8. I did a quick and dirty by removing the relay but will now so the right thing.
  12. Hi, I have a Defender 2004 TD5 with air conditioner. The gas is gone as I have a leaking condenser but climate is such that haven't had the need to use it. The fan in front of the condenser is however always on once the engine is running despite the A/C being switched off. Is this normal, as I can't see the point of it being on if A/C is not on? Lars Nairobi, Kenya
  13. I am very happy to have found a well equipped, nice, low mileage 2004 Td5 Defender in which I have just replaced the standard intercooler with the large Allisport model and a Boost/EGT combo gauge. The vehicle is already equipped with a PSI Motorsport "IP-Powerbox". The issue now is that I register temperatures in excess of 900 Degrees C when pushing hard. Boost reading noted is 0.9 bar when wastegate opens. There is still a lot of smoke but only when pushing hard, although less than with the standard intercooler. My main concern is the temperature and I wonder if anyone out there has experience with this PSI Gadget. There are jumpers inside the box and I assume there are different fuelling levels possible by changing these. I have sent a query to PSI in Luxembourg, but would like to hear from anyone out there having experience with this and perhaps had the chance to play around with the settings. I believe by reducing the fuelling the temperatures would drop to acceptable levels not to damage turbo. The smoke should then also reduce. Lars
  14. Followed the Loooooooong and interesting thread to the end. I'm not into Hexadecimal programming in any way so it seems I might have to find another way of solving my problem.
  15. Is it possible to have a 2004 Defender Td5 speedometer changed/reprogrammed so it shows km instead of miles?