Jump to content


Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Spearos

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Fishing - the proper kind, not sitting around a muddy, over stocked pond.
    Restoring (very slowly) my daily driver 90.

Recent Profile Visitors

636 profile views
  1. Yes, of course! Out of interest, where's the guide going to be?
  2. So after many trouble free months, out of the blue the whole thing went crazy - all needles frantically bounced all over the place, the speaker was bonging rapidly and all warning lights were blinking/flashing! After 5 seconds or so it settled down only to leave me without the odometer display, and the green M and S light illuminated. Everything else appears ok - speedo and tacho work, as does the partial odometer. The M and S lights are now out too and haven't come back on. It hasn't rained for weeks here so that rules out water ingress, I guess. Anyone have any ideas?
  3. So, I may have got to the bottom of this. Possibly... Other than the single temp gauge malfunction, the IP has been behaving and I have a theory - When the head lining was fitted and it rained, the top left hand corner would get very wet (it didn't before the windscreen was fitted and of course I didn't have this issue before the windscreen was fitted). Also when I removed head lining it was stuck to the excess windscreen sealant along the top of the screen. When I removed the headlining and checked for leaks, it was leaking in the middle of the screen. Now, what I'm thinking is that the water was coming in at the top of the screen and with the lining being stuck to the windsreen sealant it was diverting most of the water to the top of the nearside A post. Here the water was running down the A post and into the side of the footwell (inside of the lower wing). There are connectors here (behind the plastic trim) that I understand are connected to the SLABS/BCU. I removed said plastic trim today and although it is dry behind it, there is evidence of water being there such as scale on the earth point that behind the connectors. Is my theory feasable? Could water interfering with these connections cause the IP to act up? - Since the headlining was removed the water is no longer being diverted down the A post to these connections hence no recent occurrences of the speedo going on one?
  4. Thanks for the info - saved me from time spent on google! The interior fuse box isnt something that I've looked at (other than checking fuse). Will be taking a good look at it once I get chance. Thanks. Just to add to the strangeness, the IP did something different today - the speedo, rev, LCD were fine however the temp gauge warning light came on and the temp needle very slowly went all the way to the max before dropping back to min and moving back to max again (probably 5 seconds from min to max). It did this many, many times before suddenly behaving again!
  5. Thank you sierrafery. Incidentally I've read a lot of stuff written by you, and not just on here - certainly know your stuff. It just seems funny that the fault is more persistent after or during rain I'm sure I have read somewhere that changing the instrument pack isn't straight forward, especially if you get a second hand unit with a lower mileage on it. Looks like I have some searching/reading to do...
  6. Hoping someone can help, give me some pointers/checks to carry out? Pretty please Since July the speedo on my 2003 Disco TD5 has started to play up. At first I noticed the speedo needle would occasionally 'shake', then it would temporally stick. The last week or so the odometer has started to blank out as well, along with the fuel/temp gauges not registering. Initially these faults would last for 10-30 seconds at a time, however recently it will play up for anything between 10 seconds and 15 minutes. I did notice today though that a hard bump in the road 'brought it back to life'. I did have the windscreen replaced and it does leak slightly - recently I noticed a water mark on the inside of the screen. The head lining has always got slightly wet since I got the car so this weekend I took out the head lining out to see if it was sunroof, windscreen or both. I suspect the old windscreen leaked as well as the new one as the sunroof is fine. The issue does appear to be more common when it has been raining or is raining. So I'm thinking the issue could be down to water and electrics mixing? I have checked the SLABs ECU connections and the connections to the binnicle and they all appear dry and ok. Mark
  7. A couple of months ago I had my windscreen replaced (big crack) on my Disco 2 for it's MOT. The guy who did it was a complete numpty mainly because he managed to break the scuttle panel, but the company did provide me with a brand new item... eventually. However today I removed the binnicle surround (for reasons I'm not going into... yet) and it came to my attention that the two mounting points (at the bottom) are broken, looks like it was removed with brute force! Now, I had this part off a while back to change a bulb and I remember these two screws - to get to them the steering column trim halves need removing, so I know it was not broken back then. My question is this though - can anyone think of a reason why the binnicle surround might have been removed during windscreen replacement? Before I go nuts (again) at the company I just want to be fairlyconfident it was said numpty!
  8. What a waste of masking tape - just write on the box! That never works for me - I still get nasty black bogeys, despite not aiming at my nose!!
  9. Also means everything in them will be covered in all that dust from the grinder etc etc! But.. if it works for you, that's what matters. I hate any storage that is open, especially those little boxes which clip on a back board. I like to keep the contents of any storage free from the dreaded angle grinder dust - it gets everywhere and I'm always surprised by the sheer quantity of it!
  10. Exactly that! The plan is to have racking down one side and a worktop with storage underneath along the other - I will just have to try and keep two sections (opposite one another) clear for increased width. As you say you can still have high level shelves/storage in these sections. Crates (not necessarily from Tesco!) are great. i've got a load of those plastic moving boxes with the flapped lids, which all being the same size and stackable is great for making the most of any space designated for storage. I was meant to say in my last post that Les nailed it when he said working indoors beats working outside. I dont mind the cold, it's rolling about in a puddle that gets me! The other big advantage for me is privacy - I dont like people seeing what tools/goodies I have!
  11. Thanks guys, good to hear all the different opinions. I will be restricted to a building with an internal width of 4.2m because of where it's going (long story), so as long as I keep the walls clear (ish) it should give me decent space either side.
  12. Thanks Fridge, thanks for your input....And thanks for making me now worry about the width! I've had a look at your garage Is that really a meter either side? A meter seems enough (in theory anyway), in our old house there was a fence on one side of our drive and I often worked on my 90 with around a meter between it and the fence and I didn't find it difficult. Hmmmmm
  13. Does this cause you much frustration though Fridge? Thank you Arjan! The more think about it the more I think 2.5m should be fine. The times I will need to lift a vehicle more than 40cm are surely going to be limited, so when they do occur I can just work on my car outside, or make other plans.
  14. I'm back! So here we are almost a year later and still no workshop! I severely underestimated the time it would take to do some stuff to the new house, mainly down to the the arrival of a second little mite! Anyhow his will be the year! I've been busy beavering away, making plans and I'm pretty much ready to start my planning permission application. Just one issue - I really cannot decide what the minimum height to have internally? I'm thinking vehicle height plus 40cm (typical range of a 2/3t trolley jack) for raising the vehicle? Please dont anyone say make it 'as high as you can' - the site is elevated so I want to keep the eaves height of any building to an absolute minimum otherwise the workshop will look huuggggggeeeee at the back of my garden! Your thoughts please, on how much headroom I need to raise a landie sufficiently?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy