Spearos

My 90 runs on LPG too, and has an LED indicator on the LPG/Petrol switch which I must say when working is carp! I rely on the odometer for knowing when to fill up with LPG - don't let the petrol tank get too low so you have that as a back up should you run out of LPG. However after removing the tank for chassis repair, upon refitting the level indicator worked (for a while) so maybe it was just a bad contact? - there is a very small multiplug near the valve on the tank that I guess was disturbed during removal/refitting. As for the problem on petrol, if it runs fine on LPG then you can rule out the ignition system. Ignition faults will be present on both fuels and probably more so on LPG. So there's a good chance your problem is with the fuel system. HTH I'm sure someone who knows what they're doing will be along shortly to give you more advice (and correct me)....

Will be interested to hear some suggestions on this, as I am (very slowly) refurbing some doors. I plan to use the cards I already have on the 90 as they're fine apart from most of the fixing points being broken. One idea I did have (in the little amount of time spent thinking about this) is possibly using self tappers and the little caps normally used for the screws on number plates?.. These are what I mean: http://www.jhmbuttco.com/acatalog/info_WES0085.html

Thanks.

Where about was that in Oxfordshire exactly if you don't mind saying? I'm a little concerned as I live in that neck of the woods!

You'd only get a reply like that in America! Although, I had to show the girlfriend it!

For an extra £100 I should hope it's a lot better! Correct me if I'm wrong but both of these would be ok for lengths of say box section, but I cannot see how you'd use one on a large sheet of metal. Still like the idea of using a 'guide' to start the cut, I might round to trying it soon!!

Impressive! If LR4x4 did badges, you'd definitely get one for your angle grinder skills!

Top bombing! Thanks guys, a lot of info there. As for you Night Train - you did that with an angle grinder??!

I like it, so it's a bit like scoring a line for the disc to follow? I have recently started using the thin discs - what a difference they make! I knew someone on here would have a good tip - many thanks.

As the title really, I don't cut much steel so splashing out of a new piece of equipment isn't really an option. Just wondered if anyone has any hints/tips/tricks for making straight cuts in steel accurately with an Angle Grinder? Cheers

Have yo tried posting on here? http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php Some very helpful people if you fancy having a go yourself? might even be some info already on there. HTH

I think welding a large nut onto it is your best bet, however these have a reputation for sometimes being ever so tight so I guess whoever welds the nut will have to do a 'proper job'. Good luck!

Seems as though bacon is mentioned a lot when it comes to welding I'm sure burning ear wax doesn't smell as nice as bacon though!! I imagine it's a loud sizzling too being in your ear, when I was about 10 our puppy decided my ear would taste good and bit me. I can still remember actually hearing the skin 'rip'... and the consequent embarassment of going to school looking like a numpty with butterfly stiches across my ear!

Yes some of it was overhead, which I (evidently) struggled with! Access wasn't too much of a problem as I removed the LPG tank, however I agree being in a good position makes a big difference - I found the more comfortable I was the easier it was to control the torch movement. Good tip with doing a dry run before hand - I will give that a go next time, thanks. I have a crappy flip down helmet so maybe that didn't help? As for H&S because this was my first time I had a fire extinguisher, leather apron, and a paint-balling balaclava on under the helmet (limited ear protection) - I'd read all about splatter in your lug hole and really didn't like the sound of that!

Cheers Steve, I take your point however there are quite a few patches on the cross member and legs already so the plan is fit a new cross member with extensions in the near future - this repair will (hopefully) get me through the MOT.

First off, a little bit of background. This is the first bit of welding I've done, minus a few hours practising prior to this. I'm completely self taught, so I'm hoping I didn't do too bad! I know that welding on a chassis is far from the best place to start but I couldn't resist I was very relunctant to write this post but I think it would be good to know if I'm doing anything right It's clear (even to a complete novise like me) that it's very messy but I'm hoping tidiness will come with experience... Here we go - I'm ready for criticism and of course some tiddle taking Apologies for the dodgy pictures - a bit difficult to take pics with the LPG tank in the way!

Any body tried swimming goggles?!! Neighbours may think you're a little 'strange' though

Great write up - just wish you did it sooner! I only did this job at the beginning of April and your tip of inserting all the rivets before you start 'popping them' would of saved me a bit of hassle! Just one thing, the old cappings on my vehicle were bonded/glued on and were a complete bugger to get off. I doubt that my '87 county has been through 2 lots of cappings so maybe some were bonded/glued on at the factory? If you're unfortunate enough to have a LR with cappings that are bonded/glued on, good luck! Whatever was used is bloody tough stuff - large screw drivers, pry bars or chisels just started to distort the aluminium side panel before the cappings gave way. How I did it in the end was use the capping for the rear bulkhead (I had one spare)as a kind of chisel inserted under the capping from the rear of the vehicle to break the seal then once inserted a few feet, use it to lever the capping off. Not much help if you haven't got a spare rear bulkhead capping I know, but a similiar shaped piece of metal would probably suffice. However it would need to be strong, I did manage to bend the bulkhead capping slightly - that's how solid the cappings were held on!! Oh and I bet you had fun with that hand rivet gun?! I got myself a pair of lazy tongs for this job, money well spent - there's a lot of rivets!!

quote name='sharpy' date='12 April 2010 - 09:46 PM' timestamp='1271105178' post='489502'] i think that stuff is the "Dum Dum" its like a blu tack kinda stuff only it sticks like s**t to blanket It definately wasn't dum-dum - I used that stuff to seal the gaps behind the door seals. Whatever it was, it was damn hard to get off!! Cappings came off in bits! One whole corner was actually missing! But job more or less completed now, I don't ever want to put new alpine seals in! Hopefully I now have water tight roof/sides All the best, Mark

Cheers Paul. I think I'm going to go down the silicon/sealant route. Like you I don't want water getting in my vehicle either, so I'm going to get myself some sealant/adhesive and apply it liberally on all joints. Off topic, not sure if it was Land Rover stuff applied at the factory but what ever was used under the old body cappings was bloody good stuff!!! Was a right pain in the arse getting them off! I found using the capping off the centre bulkhead as a 'chisel' to break the seal very effective. And of course it reached right along the whole capping, unlike my largest screwdriver/pry bar!!

Hi All, I'm in the process of replacing the body cappings on my '87 90 V8. I'm trying to get together a list of parts I'll need for reassembley, but I'm stuck on what side panel lower seals to order - there seems to be several part numbers at different prices. The existing seals appear to be solid rubber and rectangular in cross section. The chassis number is EA320555. Surely the side panels/cappings haven't changed that much over the years? So my question is are all the seals really that different from each other? On the other hand I'm tempted to just use the old ones, they're not that bad - just a little uneven in places with they've pressed against the rust on the old body cappings. I could I suppose just add a little silicon or similiar upon re-fitting? Any help/suggestions much appreciated!

I really hate to keep re-visiting this and I'm embarassed to keep doing so but... Going on what you say, in this instance the ignition live is giving 12 odd volts at the light and the small wire is giving 20 odd volts (because of a faulty regulator/rectifier). It is this difference that is causing the light to come on? Again, thank you for your patience!

Thanks for your patience So this small brown wire is connected to the rectifier where ac is converted to dc (by the diodes)? Next question is then, if the large (b+ terminal?) takes current to the battery - where does this small wire go to? Thanks again

Ok had a look at your link - interesting, however I'm trying to apply it to this scenario. Would be a great help if you could tell me what is the small brown wire?

Ahh ok then Thanks for the link, will have a good look at that. Top stuff!