Spearos

Opps I did see that result but I tried searching for ERC2535 not ERR2535, good job there are some people on the ball! As for the bottom link from Aragorn, that looks very similar to my manifold. I think a phone call to LR Series is in order and we'll see what they say. But, if it is ERR2535 and ERR2538 I need then that's £190 - like Sacred Dog says I might well be better off with a four branch manifold and the extra horses it'd give me? Many thanks for your help guys, I feel a lot better about the whole thing!

Hi all! Today I went about changing the manifold gaskets on my factory fitted 90 V8. I had soaked the bolts in WD40 for the previous week and I got the engine nice and hot before attempting to loosen them (how difficult is it to bend back the little tab washer thingys?!!). They all came loose with a minimum amount of fuss. I couldn't believe none of them snapped! Anyway I was feeling rather chuffed with myself and proceeded to then remove all the bolts completely, and as I removed the last one at the back, on the drivers' side, out it came with a chunk of manifold complete with what looked like a load of silicon type sealant stuff! Oh carp! Looked like it had broke and some numb nuts had tried to 'stick it back together! I carried on with the other side, no bits of manifold came off with the bolts - oh goody I thought, until upon closer inspection the numb nuts didn't bother with any gaskets on this side! The mating face of the manifold is deeply pitted, rusty and looks pretty much useless! Anyway the part numbers are on the manifolds so I thought I'd just order 2 new ones. Trouble is the part numbers aren't recognized on any of the land rover parts sites I normally use. They are ERC5068 and ERC2995. I've seen before that the 90 V8s are broken down into 3 categories; up to '86, '87 and '88 onwards - could it be the manifolds for my 90 are no longer available as it's an '87 model? Or should I just get something like the Hedman Headers? I know they're listed for the Range Rover classic but it cannot be that hard to fit them to a 90 surely? Any help much appreciated, the 90 isn't very popular at the moment!!

Thanks diff, I never did really know how water exactly water affects the distributor. I guess the first thing to do is to determine if the thermostat gasket is actually leaking, if it is, then fix that and see if it cures the problem...

Hi all, On the way home from work tonight my 90 V8 cut out (typical it happened on a busy roundabout!), upon closer inspection the distributor appeared wet. Removal of the cap and a quick wipe/dry seemed to solve the problem - although the vehicle did stutter after being stationary at junctions etc. I'm thinking maybe the thermostat gasket has failed or at least is leaking and soaking the distributor causing the engine to cut out? This would also explain the stuttering after being stationary as I assume under this condition the water can penetrate the distibutor but when the vehicle is in motion leaked coolant is being blown away from the distributor because of the airflow from the front of the vehicle? Am I talking carp, or is it common that a leaking thermostat gasket can cause havoc with getting the distributor wet? What would you guys check, or what would you suggest I do? It is a 3.5 running on SU carbs. Cheers, Mark

Right, finally got my arse into gear... almost and will be attempting this soon. I have a plan, and I'd like it very much if anybody could give me their thoughts/suggestions B) The plan goes something like this: 1) Remove doors and strip down to just the frames. Cut out all rotten pieces and weld in nice shiney new repair section(s). 2) Remove all traces of dirt, paint, ect and coat the frames in this http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...stSubcat=Others Then a coat of barrier paint, still trying to work out if this would be ok http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Isopon-Barcoat-Bar-C...A1%7C240%3A1318 Then top coat of paint. 3) Fit new skins applying this to the mating faces of the frame http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/polyurethane-ad...-poly-481-p.asp 4) Coat new skins with U Pol Acid 8 Etch Primer 5) Apply Waxoyl or Dinitrol 3125 to the insides of the door frame. 5) Re-assemble doors, and re-fit with new hinges and bolts. I still have a few questions though, Anyone used Zinga before? Ideally I'd like to get the frames galvanised but that would take time and I want to get the doors back on asap as it's a daily driver. Any one know if Barcoat would be suitable (Frost states a water based barrier paint should be used on top of Zinga)? Should I spray the insides of the skins with Etch Primer? Is it worth using Dinitrol, is it any good? Enough of my rambling, over to you guys... Mark

Thanks again for all the replies. I'll check out Costco and I'll have a look to see how much more money is involved to get a 100l receiver. Cheers, Mark

The Sealey one I've 'ear-marked' is here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sealey-SA22503-Direc...A1%7C240%3A1318 Would this be any good??

Cheers Paintman. Not sure of any compressor specialists near here but will have a little look around. As for the biggest tool I'll use, I'm not sure as I don't know what tools will get through a lot of air. The tools I plan to use are, in no particular order: blow gun, rattle gun, tyre inflater, spray gun, shutz gun and possibly an air saw/cut off tool and air ratchet. And yes I will be running it off domestic 240v. Mark

Thanks for the replies. Paintman - it's a 24l compressor. To be honest it's got me thinking about raiding the piggy bank and getting a compressor and some air tools. I've done a little research on here and it seems a 3hp compressor with a 50l litre tank would be sufficient for say a rattle gun and possibly a little spraying later on, as well as rust proofing with a shutz gun of course. There's a few I've looked at on ebay at the £200/£250 mark, mainly SIP and Sealey - Which would be better? Or is there another choice? Any comments/suggestions appreciated, Mark

Hi all, Quick question, I'm planning on getting a shutz gun to apply Waxoyl to the insides of my chassis. Trouble is the gun I've looked at is rated at 10-12 CFM @85-90psi which I believe is too much for the compressor I've access to. The compressor having a max of 9.5 CFM. I don't know the first thing about compressors or air tools, but I've got the impression I won't be able to use a shutz gun with this compressor? Regards, Mark

Good stuff, I'll get a new hub cap, whack that on and check/clear the breather... Then see if it still leaks... Thanks!

Hello everyone, I have a small leak coming from my rear hub. I've done a little research on here but I am a little confused. First I thought it could be the drive member gasket but upon closer inspection, where this gasket is located it is bone dry - it looks like the oil is actually coming out where the hub cap joins. Could this be a seal or is it possible that a old/damaged hub cap is the culprit? I plan to check the breather first as I understand if this is blocked it can force oil out. I recently changed the axle oil and I remember either the filler or drain plug was weaping quite a bit which was fixed with a bit of PTFE tape - what I'm thinking though is IF the breather is blocked the oil was being forced out the filler/drain plug but now that is 'sealed' the oil is now taking the next easiest route? Possible? Cheers

Thanks Landmannn Can anyone tell me what SUs are found on 90s/110s? Is it the HIF44s? Has is always been the same type of SUs fitted to all V8s? I want to get a overhaul kit and obviously want to get the right one! Cheers

Been trying find out a little more about SU Carbs, I understand you should check the damper oil often but out of curiousity, what causes it to need topping up? I mean where does the oil go? Should it require regular top ups? Is the reason a leak? If so, what's the main culprit? Cheers, Mark

I see Nige, thank you for your patience

Cheers Nige. When you say write it down how'd you mean? Also, where would the number be on the dizzy? I'll have a look tomorrow and get back to you. Mark

Spot on Rog, many thanks for that. Ok, another question... Pinking, I understand what it is but I don't think I'd know it if I heard it. What does it sound like and can it only be detected by ear? Mark

Cheers Quagmire. Megajolt sounds interesting but there's plenty of other work I'd like to do before I start to modify the engine in any way. As mentioned before I have started a new thread on timing as it all confuses me!!!

Hi all, Whilst trying to get to the bottom of another problem on my 90, it was suggested to check the timing. That problem was down to something else but I would still like to check/adjust the timing anyway, trouble is all the info I have found seems to be varied. Please forgive my stupidity, it's all new to me! First question is, in the photo, is the small lug on the block and the groove in the crank pulley the timing marks? If so would the groove be TDC? Second question, what should the timing be set at? It's a 1987 3.5l engine with SU carbs. It also has an LPG conversion, I run it on LPG about 80% of the time. Cheers, Mark

Hopefully!

Good news! The landie now seems ok! Checked spark plugs, all ok. Didn't do the timing for reasons I'll explain in another post, plus it was pissing down and I wanted to be outside for as little time as poss! I whipped off the elbows and tried lifting the pistons by hand, they lifted easily enough and dropped back down a little reluctantly. The pistons looked a little dirty so I removed the cover, cleaned them all up, one carb at a time - they weren't excessively dirty, but were spotless by the time I finished. Completely forgot to do the check with the engine running I also gave the insides of the carb a good dowsing in carb cleaner and then blew air through the 'hole' the needle goes into. There were two other 'holes' next to it which I also blew air into, on the RHS a little carp came flying out- which makes me wonder if that had any significance?? Anyhow, put it all back together, filled the dashpots with oil and took it for a spin, seems better than ever!!! One thing though, I can't quite work out why the 90 ran ok for a while after the fitting of a new pump, if the problem was with the carb(s)???! So, a big thank you to all who posted replies, much appreciated - not only have I fixed the 90, I have learnt quite a bit in the process. Top forum, top members! Regards, Mark

Just been trying to get a plan together for tomorrow's tinkering, I think the first thing I'm going to do is have a little lookie at the spark plugs - see if there's anything abnormal there. Then I plan to check timing and vacumn advance before moving onto the carbs... I've been doing a little research on setting the timing, only done it once before - a long time ago at college so if anyones got any pointers or tips, they would be much appreciated Also, any idea what the timing should be set to? I know petrol and LPG require different timing settings so I understand it needs retarding a bit from the optimum setting for Petrol? Or am I talking a load of rubbish??... Again!!!

Sorry, was you asking what coil is on my Landie, or what is the OE coil??? Coil is a Lucas item again, if you're on about my 90...

Hmmm strange.... Is it possible that Land Rover had different suppliers for different years?...

Here's the leads Nige...... http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/.../180/761/100511 I understood genuine ignition parts were all Lucas???