Spearos

I'd just like to report back a happy story - completed this Monday/Tuesday and wow! What a difference! It's transformed the 90, it's got to be the one single job I've done on the landy with the biggest improvement. Shunt when slowing in gear has been reduced drastically, bumps/potholes 'feel' less harsh and the steering feels a lot more precise, it's surprising how quick I can go around roundabouts etc now! Bushes came out ok using the drill-hacksaw-chisel method - I don't know what all the fuss is about! One thing to note is that I did the panhard rod bushes recently, the old items were the poly type bush and the inside mating face of the panhard rod had a lot of corrosion that needed cleaning up, compared to the inside mating faces of the A frame arms which had the 'normal' rubber type bushes. Another reason not to go down the polybush route perhaps?

As I thought Ron, but is it a requirement to have the wheels free of the ground? I guess not? - I thought maybe I'll just chock the rear wheels front and back to be sure.

Just a quickie, tomorrow I plan to replace the A frame bushes. While I'm at it, it seems the perfect time to give the arms/mountings a good clean and paint so rather than doing one arm at a time (leaving one arm attached to prevent movement) I am thinking about taking the both arms off at the same time. I plan to leave the balljoint and fulcrum attached to the axle and to remove both arms, so is it just a question of supporting the chassis with the road wheels resting on the floor - to prevent things moving whilst the arms are off? Any suggestions as to the easiest way to do this would be received most gratefully!

Well plenty there to go on with, lots to 'read up' on although I do feel I now have a good idea what would be ideal so a big thank you to everyone who's replied. Top bombing! I like your thinking Nige, I like it a lot!!

Of course any work I do will be reported to the building inspector! I'm surprised how long it took for someone to mention regs, it seems some people on other forums get really excited when you mention power to your garage/shed! I like the no nonsense approach of the Land rover folk! Cynic-al I take your point on what could be ran, however the only thing that is left plugged in is the radio so I suppose that minimises the chances of multiple items being used at once. With regards to your suggestion of getting a 7 way consumer unit etc, what would be the advantage of this over buying an RCD 2 way unit? PS like the idea with the ducting Something to add is that on the TLC website it has 2.5mm 2 core SWA and 2.5mm 3 core SWA rated at 36A and 31A respectively. So it seems there is a bit of variance on the capacity of cable, or SWA cable at least - as mentioned previously the Central Cables website says 29A? Now as said before I haven't a fookin clue with electric theory but if I were to have a 2 way unit in the garage with a 6A and 16A breaker, surely it would not be possible to 'pull' more than 22A through the 2.5mm cable?

Interesting... Very good point erparrott, the 32a MCB will allow more current than the 2.5mm cable is rated for so this is something that will need to be addressed. Easily put right I guess by laying 4mm SWA as HFH suggests. However this will no doubt involve some fun and games in the garden with the various 'obstacles' out there. I'm confused about the RCDs/MCBs though Would having an RCD garage consumer unit will negate the need for an RCD on the circuit at the house consumer unit? It appears the 2 way RCD garage consumer units I've seen have an RCD on the supply and one MCB on each outlet - does this mean if the RCD trips then power to both MCBs/circuits will be cut? Or are they like the split house consumer units where the MCB for the lighting doesn't go through the RCD? It seems the more I read the more I get confused!

I'm really going to show my ignorance here, but would an RCD protected consumer unit suffice? Or is it a requirement to have a dedicated RCD?

Thanks for your reply, the stress had eased somewhat! The reason for my concern wasn't because of the power of the drill, it was just that with another electric tool it got me looking at the garage, it's supply and demand as a whole. Coincidentely, there is a friendly sparky on site today. I spoke with him and he basically has said the same as you. It appears ok in theory, but fitting a garage consumer unit and ring would be beneficial and he also suggested having an electrician inspect it. Cheers

Ok, with the addition of a pillar drill my attention has been turned to the electricity supply/arrangement in my garage. Basically I'm seeking advice on whether A) what I have is safe and B) is it adequate. My knowledge of electricity is extremely limited so please forgive my terminology! I will try my best to explain the current 'set up'. 32A MCB on the consumer unit fed to a electric cooker outlet (cooker is gas, no electric cooker)via 4mm cooker cable, approx length 5m 2.5mm 3 core armoured cable from electric cooker outlet into garden, ran underground to garage. approx length 20m (interestingly this is orange in colour, quick google suggests it's intended use is traffic lights/street lights?). This joins a double socket which has a further 2 double sockets spurred from it. 2 x double 4' strips lights on a 13A plug Equipment wise I have a SIP Autoplus 196A Mig on a 13A plug, 3hp compressor and the 375w pillar drill as well as smaller items such as 2000w convector heater, angle grinder, reciprocating saw, jigsaw, cicler saw etc. Obviously only one of these items in in use at one time apart from the heater. Would really appreciate any comments/suggestions as the small amount of googling I've done since this concern reared it's ugly head has not only totally confused me, it has stressed me out big time with worry!

Are the 'ID tags' still on your carbs? I believe one of the dash pot screws normally goes through a little strip of metal with some numbers on - if you have these, give the numbers to Burlen and they'll sort you out. HTH

I pre mix my anti freeze in a 5l container, 3 parts anitfreeze and 2 parts water gives me a 60/40 mix. I then just fill up from this container knowing the antifreeze/water ratio is correct.

Still thinking about doing this... at some point. I've been thinking about capacity - obviously fabricating a 'frame' to handle a lower capacity bottle jack would be easier to construct. I presume less force is required for pressing new bushes in? After all there's plenty of other ways to remove them!

'Tweeked' the adjuster on the steering box today and it's so much better! Thanks to all who took the time to comment

Cheers Baz. Found this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55274 the description at the start of the thread is exactly what I have, so it appears adjustment will take out the play. So will give it a go on sunday....

Good Evening chaps! Looking for a little advice - basically the steering on my 90 has recently began to 'wander' and has generally lost any sharpness it did have. Now, I have done a few searches and I have a fairly big list of things to check, but that'll have to wait until my shift finishes. Tonight I did however have a quick look (always fun when it's dark and raining) and upon quick inspection it appears that the TREs, Panhard Rod bushes, ball joints and steering UJs are all satisfactory. Also, with the car stationary there is a lot of free play in the steering wheel - I would say roghly somewhere around 45 degrees! Which shockingly I hadn't noticed before, it seems a lot? I did notice though when I had a poke about that the Steering Box shaft that connects to the bottom UJ has quite a bit of free play when turned by hand. Could this be that the Steering Box just needs adjusting via the nut/hex key on top? Or does it point towards the whole box being shafted?! Any suggestions/thoughts most welcome!!!

I've read your reply a few times and I think I get it - quite similar to the one in the link but with 4 threaded rods (one in each corner?) and only two 'ends' which are made from several pieces of bar weldws together to form a box shape (with no lid) and diagonal 'braces' to improve strength/rigidness? The idea of it being easily diassemblied is a huge bonus, as in my single garage space is at a huge premium what with tools/spares/fishing gear/SWMBO's garden carp!

Ok scrap getting the concrete out! I'm sure I can find some plate in the metal skip at work! So... it appears that even 30t could be insufficient! I think i'll have to do some research into the strength of my box sections before I look at going for anything with more capacity. I believe this has been covered before - http://forums.lr4x4....ss&fromsearch=1

Very good point, the sliding section isn't really needed is it! Unless you're squashing tins, hard hats and lego men like the goon guy in the how-to. The plan is it'll be for radius arm/panhard/A frame bushes, I'll probably do prop UJs on it too and I may even try doing an A frame ball joint on it. Maybe I'll go for a bigger one then, just to be sure! Any thoughts on the use of concrete to strengthen the box section?!

In the near future I want to replace the various nasty polybushes (fitted by the previous owner) with 'normal' rubber ones. Anyhow, yes I could probably ask the friendly garage down the road to use their press for a few beer tokens, but where's the fun in that? Much more satisfying using something made by yourself, plus I like the fact this can be 'flat packed' taking up very little room in its componant form. http://www.instructa...hing!/?ALLSTEPS I have sourced some huge box section from work for free and as M42 studding is quite expensive (and probably overkill) I was thinking about using 4 lengths of M24 studding. My thinking is that one rod in each corner would better distribute the pressure on the box section. Oh and I'm thinking maybe something smaller than a 30t bottle jack! I'd appreciate any thoughts on this, like a) is it a reasonable idea/design and b) any suggestions how it could be improved further?

As long as it meets or exceeds the specifications set out by the vehicle manufacturer, there shouldn't be a problem. If it's any help, I've used Wilko's oil in SWMBO's little Lupo and not had any problems. I tend to use 'budget' oil and change it often...

Here you go, everything you've ever wanted to know... Hopefully! http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html HTH

I used Frost's Chassis Black on my new rear cross member almost 2 years ago and have recently gone over 3/4 of the chassis with it (the bits I can get to anyway), and so far I'm impressed with the results. You can spend a lot of money on some fancy paint but at the end of the day it's all about the preparation - just me two bobs worth anyway....

This made me laugh... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/car-alarm-system-/160708364846?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item256af70a2e

Cheers Retroanaconda. I'm pretty sure the dampers on the 'bus' are made by Armstrong which I'm sure I've read somewhere are who make them for Land Rover. So hopefully I won't come across too many problems fitting the new bushes. Once again, I'm chuffed with the response on this forum. Big thank you to all who have replied, Merry Christmas to you all and all the best for 2012! Mark

Ahh ok, that all makes sense. thank Kiwi. I guess (hope) that the eyes on all shockers irrespective of what brand they are have the same shape internally to take this type of bush?