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Chazza last won the day on June 22 2018

Chazza had the most liked content!

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About Chazza

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  1. Well thank you for the reassuring comments about LPG, I suspected at the time that it was bulldust! No need for an economic summary, I did that when I installed it in 2003, Cheers Charlie
  2. Slightly off-topic. I met a man this weekend who had been warned-off LPG on a Rover V8, by a Rover specialist. He claimed that LPG burns hotter and threatens the cylinder liners. I ran LPG in my 3.9 V8 for at least 80 000km and eventually one liner came loose and 2 more looked dodgy, when I stripped the engine. Is there any truth to the hypothesis? My engine was never overheated according to the temp gauge, Cheers Charlie
  3. Thank you Dave a most informative post! Cheers Charlie
  4. What is a BIP373? Cheers Charlie
  5. Jamie, a friend of mine used to clean, calibrate and test petrol fuel injectors as a business. His machine was rather straightforward and extremely accurate; he even found a dud injector on a Ford still in warranty. I think if you contacted any one who is in the business of doing the same thing, they would be able to match your injectors to your satisfaction and probably be very helpful in providing information on the type to look for and what types of cars had them. Try the breakers for used injectors, Cheers Charlie
  6. Yes, I had a very poor fitting plug for my EDIS, which needed treatment with a file to make it work from TW. Anyway, new idea; remove a plug, connect it to the high-tension lead, earth it well to the engine and get someone else to crank it, whilst you observe for a strong blue spark. In my case it proved to be a poor connection inside the sensor plug. Good luck, Cheers Charlie
  7. I would stay away from used coils – how do you know what condition they are in? An auto sparky told me that worn spark plugs place a greater load on the coil-pack, eventually causing it to fail. How many people nowadays replace their plugs, when the car seems to be running so well? Cheers Charlie
  8. The installation notes I have, says to earth to a common point on the engine; the object being to prevent various earth-loops creating very low voltages, which can interfere with sensitive electronics. Note that most earth wires go the common-earth; don't use one cable. They also say that the noise created by say a high-tension lead, reduces as a square-of-the-distance, away from the sensitive component. So moving a component even a short distance from noisy components, may solve the problem. Examples of noisy components; injector wires; coil; alternator; idle valve, Cheers Charlie
  9. From memory idle speed should be about 750rpm, so it is not far off the mark. Have you checked the ignition advance with a timing light? Too much advance will increase rpm, Cheers Charlie
  10. Have a look in the workshop manual. On the 3.9 there is a concealed screw on the inlet to the plenum, which controls how open the butterfly is at idle. You will need a tachometer and a warm engine, but with a bit of fiddling you might be able to get it to run for long enough, Cheers Charlie
  11. May be a head gasket; start the engine with the cooling system full and the fill-plug removed from the radiator. Continuous bubbling indicates gases getting into the cooling system. If there is no bubbling, take the thermostat out and test it. Check the engine oil as well; if it is white it has been mixed with coolant and the head will have to come off, Good Luck, Cheers Charlie
  12. Congratulations Erik and well done! Thank you for posting your WUE, ASE and PW data; this is exactly the sort of information, which could be useful to someone else doing a similar job, Cheers Charlie
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