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Chazza

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Chazza last won the day on June 22 2018

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About Chazza

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  1. Thank you for the update, Cheers Charlie
  2. Thank you Dave a most informative post! Cheers Charlie
  3. What is a BIP373? Cheers Charlie
  4. Jamie, a friend of mine used to clean, calibrate and test petrol fuel injectors as a business. His machine was rather straightforward and extremely accurate; he even found a dud injector on a Ford still in warranty. I think if you contacted any one who is in the business of doing the same thing, they would be able to match your injectors to your satisfaction and probably be very helpful in providing information on the type to look for and what types of cars had them. Try the breakers for used injectors, Cheers Charlie
  5. Yes, I had a very poor fitting plug for my EDIS, which needed treatment with a file to make it work from TW. Anyway, new idea; remove a plug, connect it to the high-tension lead, earth it well to the engine and get someone else to crank it, whilst you observe for a strong blue spark. In my case it proved to be a poor connection inside the sensor plug. Good luck, Cheers Charlie
  6. I would stay away from used coils – how do you know what condition they are in? An auto sparky told me that worn spark plugs place a greater load on the coil-pack, eventually causing it to fail. How many people nowadays replace their plugs, when the car seems to be running so well? Cheers Charlie
  7. The installation notes I have, says to earth to a common point on the engine; the object being to prevent various earth-loops creating very low voltages, which can interfere with sensitive electronics. Note that most earth wires go the common-earth; don't use one cable. They also say that the noise created by say a high-tension lead, reduces as a square-of-the-distance, away from the sensitive component. So moving a component even a short distance from noisy components, may solve the problem. Examples of noisy components; injector wires; coil; alternator; idle valve, Cheers Charlie
  8. From memory idle speed should be about 750rpm, so it is not far off the mark. Have you checked the ignition advance with a timing light? Too much advance will increase rpm, Cheers Charlie
  9. Have a look in the workshop manual. On the 3.9 there is a concealed screw on the inlet to the plenum, which controls how open the butterfly is at idle. You will need a tachometer and a warm engine, but with a bit of fiddling you might be able to get it to run for long enough, Cheers Charlie
  10. May be a head gasket; start the engine with the cooling system full and the fill-plug removed from the radiator. Continuous bubbling indicates gases getting into the cooling system. If there is no bubbling, take the thermostat out and test it. Check the engine oil as well; if it is white it has been mixed with coolant and the head will have to come off, Good Luck, Cheers Charlie
  11. Congratulations Erik and well done! Thank you for posting your WUE, ASE and PW data; this is exactly the sort of information, which could be useful to someone else doing a similar job, Cheers Charlie
  12. Thank you for this extremely useful post! One of the difficulties for new users of MS, is understanding what people write on forums, let alone remembering what all the acronyms stand for and then sometimes, tables are produced without a label on the axes, or sometimes without a title on the table. This can make it a bit of a trial for someone such as myself, who is trying to understand what goes where, etc. I must say, however, that this thread with the helpful and well-wriiten responses, has been one of the most useful threads I have read and I have saved the address in my MS installation notes. Thank you everyone! Cheers Charlie
  13. Thank you Erik that is an immense help! Cheers Charlie
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