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Chazza last won the day on June 22 2018

Chazza had the most liked content!


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  1. Well done! At least you have eliminated that problem, Cheers Charlie
  2. I quote Crane Cams when I say it is OK to stop, the instructions came with the new camshaft and are also on their website. I stopped mine once after 5 minutes to check for water leaks etc. I smeared the lobes and lifter with assembly-lube, but by the time the engine had been rotated several times to check lift, etc. it is hard to see how anyone can avoid rotating the engine by hand. I was adjusting the Rimmer Brothers timing wheel, but even if you have the standard wheels, the valve timing still has to be checked. It is also nice to prove later that no pistons are touching valves. I also primed the lubrication system with a homemade air-pressure primer, until I could see oil running out of the rockers; that way when it started there was instant oil pressure. Crane Cams explains that the most pressure on the lobe tip, occurs when the valve is fully open, therefore you want the lobe to be there for a very short time, hence the high revs. I did 2500rpm for 30 minutes. 20 000km later all is well with the camshaft, Cheers Charlie
  3. Just remember that the running-in time doesn't have to be continuous; you can stop it any time to check things, or let it cool down. Get the injectors serviced first, Cheers Charlie
  4. Send all of your injectors to a specialist. They can clean them; check the spray pattern; check the flow-rate against each other and recommend what to do if they are beyond repairing. This is not an expensive job and eliminates pointless trial and error at home, Cheers Charlie
  5. You can empty the lifters by pressing down on the centre bit; needs a mechanical press of some sort. Did you run the lifters in at 2200rpm for at least 20 minutes with no idling? If not the lobes will be buggered – been there, done that.
  6. I agree with Bowie. Always check timing and spark are perfect first, before fiddling with the fuel; and that applies to any petrol engine and fuel system, Cheers Charlie
  7. The Land Rover workshop manual explains how to set base-idle. Do it when the engine is hot and use an external tachometer for more accuracy, Cheers Charlie
  8. You have done well to eliminate two possibilities; as Fridge says when you get despondent, do something else for a while. I once remember when I was very young, spending hours trying to start a bolt in a hole, behind the fuel pump on my Cortina. After dropping it countless times and finding that swearing didn't help, I gave up and returned in the morning; it went in first go! Have you checked the fuel delivery and pressure regulator? Cheers Charlie
  9. Well done; at least it runs and the 10 minute, or 5 minute sessions, are quite OK, Cheers Charlie
  10. Good progress 🙂 Regarding lifters – camshaft makers recommend running them and the cam-lobes in, at 2200rpm for 20 minutes. I did mine at 2500rpm for 30 minutes. DO NOT let the engine idle. It is OK to turn the engine off to check for leaks etc. but don't crank it for long, you need an instant start. I tested mine dry and started it with them dry, as recommended by Crow Cams (I think); the same procedure is recommended in the P6 3500 manual. This is because the greatest pressure on the cam-lobe is at slow revolution and hence the biggest risk for scuffing of the surfaces. Don't forget even during assembly, most of the pre-lube gets wiped off as you turn the crankshaft. Use running-in oil, so that the camshaft and lifters get well-splashed. I made a pressurised container for squirting oil into the oil gallery, so that the lubrication was primed before trying to crank it. On my Disco 1, I also removed the oil hose to the heat exchanger in the radiator and poured oil into the hose to make sure that the pump and filter were full. It is the only time that the oil-light didn't stay on for a few seconds after starting. Make sure you have heaps of oil in the cylinders, to help the rings slide. Timing gears – there may be nothing wrong with the timing marks, however, the only way to be 100% sure is to check them with a degree-wheel and a piston stop. I bought an adjustable sprocket from RPI so that I could get the timing spot on i.e. the camshaft can be timed exactly to the crankshaft. Apparently sometimes the manufacturers make errors and timing gears are not always what they should be. Have a look on Youtube to see movies about using an engine stop; much easier to do before the engine goes into the car. Don't rush things now, you need the engine to be a success, Cheers Charlie PS I have just found a Word doc I wrote about using and engine-stop and checking camshaft timing, with photos. If anyone would like a copy, feel free to PM me with your email address.
  11. Send the block to your re-conditioner for measuring; installing the new cam bearings; and a hot-wash, to get all of the grit out of the oil galleries, which caused all of that damage in the scored cylinder and to the crank. If it was my engine, I would have new liners and pistons as well, unless the bores are to size. Have you investigated around the top of the liners to see if they have moved yet? If you get it hot-washed, loose liners will move when pushed by hand, Good luck! Cheers Charlie
  12. Check out the cylinder on the far right; note the concentric ring showing in the aluminium of the block, on the right hand side of the cylinder. It is more pronounced than on the rest of the cylinders. I think that that cylinder liner, may be slipping and was what caused the tappet like rattle in your film. My block was very similar and I had it re-lined with Turner's liners. No. 8 looked just like yours does. Give the block a really good clean on the top faces and send a photo to Turner Engineering and get their opinion, Cheers Charlie
  13. You only need to drill down to the depth of the head, as Mike AK suggested; probably only 1/2 to 3/4". The last drill bit needs to be the same diameter as the bolt stem just under the head; then the head should snap off when twisted. Have you tested the rockers for radial play? If there is any, buy new shafts and 16 rockers. That bluing on one of the shafts seems to indicate dryness, perhaps the the person before you, assembled it with the shaft in the wrong orientation. Good luck!
  14. Given the grittiness and the wear on the lifter, I would now strip the engine completely, clean every component and start measuring and inspecting. Camshafts and lifters can be re-ground if necessary. The lifters and rockers from Turner Engineering are good quality. The scratches on the side of the lifters might be a problem if they have worn the block badly; check for sideways movement when you have cleaned them. When you have cleaned the pushrods, roll them on a very flat surface and check for any wobbly movement. As you posted earlier, it might be a case of a new engine from Turner being a viable option, Cheers Charlie
  15. I agree with the others. Do a compression check wet and dry and if it comes up to specifications, leave the bottom end alone for now, unless you can prove that the tight-spot is down there somewhere. If the camshaft bearings need replacing, then it is best done at an engine re-conditioners, Cheers Charlie
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