Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


landrovermanuk last won the day on February 4 2016

landrovermanuk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About landrovermanuk

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Land Rovers, sailing and other things too rude to mention here....
  1. Absolutely gutted, I can't really go into details but a representative from JLR came to my work with a large scale model of the new Defender. Unfortunately as the only Land Rover fan working, I was on a break when he came in...🙁
  2. I don't know. I would buy the new 80" Defender or the back to basics two door Range Rover that LR have started to build...
  3. I seem to remember that on a previous thread, someone also put ducting inside the dash so that the hot air is directed straight to the vents...
  4. We need a multi point lock, so when you lock the door a bar goes into the tub and the bulkhead...
  5. How about a wire that plugs the Defender into the house? Unplug the wire and an alarm goes off in the house unless switched off inside first...
  6. In the interview last year, the guy said he asked to buy the tooling from LR. They said no, so he said he would make all new tooling as it would have a better finish than the old LR stuff. He made it sound like it would look exactly like the Defender but with better engines and quality control...
  7. Caustic soda will get most stuff off... You should be able to find a local company locally...
  8. I'm using hydrate 80, then a coat of electrox, followed by bilt hamber 2 pack epoxy mastic paint, then top coat... Hopefully that will last a few years... For the bits I cant get to I am soaking the parts in 9/1 water-molasses, then after a good wash and rub down with a scourer any bits I can reach, finally soaking them in 4/1 phosphoric acid - water... Warnings... Phosphoric acid when mixed with water is pretty harmless unless you get it in your eyes and it stings like buggery if you have a cut, I have been working with bare hands without problems... The 2 pk paint is a hard to get off your hands and needs xylene to clean up, so wear gloves...
  9. Hopefully this works and there are some pictures of my 90 attached...John http://s163.photobucket.com/user/landrovermanuk/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160131_161609.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=37926269&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=1 ]http://s163.photobucket.com/user/landrovermanuk/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160131_161628.jpg.html]
  10. He is a top chap and his work puts many others to shame... I just wish I could upload a couple pics of mine but my pc is playing up...
  11. For some reason I can't up load any of my pictures, so until I sort out picture hosting, I have found these pics on line of Clive's work. John...
  12. First of all, I must start off by apologising to Clive, I said I would do this a while back. Like many of you, the rear cross member on my 90 was rotting and had been patched to get it through the MOT. Unfortunately as you know this is only a temporary fix. After a lot of research I realised I had a few choices. Build my own cross member, satisfying but realistically very slow in my case. Buy a L/R cross member and have it fitted, expensive. Buy a pattern part, dubious build quality. Finally I found http://www.blacksheepcrossmember.co.uk/ I spent quite a while reading up about Clive and his cross members. All the reviews told of the highest quality work. I was sold. I contacted Clive and he came round to see the 90. A price was agreed and the last weekend in January was booked for the work. On the Saturday morning I dropped the 90 off at his workshop, Clive showed me the cross member and fitting kit he had made. Being 6mm thick, it’s a sturdy thing of beauty. Sunday lunchtime I got a phone call, the 90 was ready. I went to collect the 90 and was met with a greatly improved rear end. Clive explained that the loom for the rear lights had become brittle and some of the wires had snapped when he had moved it up out of the way. He fixed it but didn’t want any money for this work but I insisted in paying him extra. He went on to say he had had some problems spraying the new metal work due to the cold clogging his spray gun. It looks fine to me. Anyway enough rambling. I have no financial interest in Clive but I do believe that great service and workmanship should be rewarded by being spoken about. Clive can be found at the above site or on Facebook. He’s moved workshop but doesn’t advertise its location for security. It’s probably best to contact him via email first off, he has two mobiles, one on Facebook and the other on his website. That’s because one works at home but not at his workshop and the other works at his workshop but not at home… For some reason I can't add pictures, I will keep trying. If you require pics of the work, I can email them to you... Any questions don’t hesitate to ask… John ​
  13. Aren't Land Rover bound to supply parts for up to 5 years after end of production? The guy on the factory tour said that LR were going to supply parts for 10 years... If that's the case you should still be able to get new chassis...
  14. Could you put plastic ducting in the air box in the dash panel and fill the rest with insulation? I'm sure I read that someone had done that,may have even been earlier in this thread...
  15. I can't remember the exact figures from a pre Christmas factor visit but it's takes something like 300 staff to make 500 Defenders and a 150 to make 1000 Range Rovers in the same period...
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy