landrovermanuk

Thanks for the replies. I remember about the acetone and atf, I'll have to raid my darling wife's nail varnish remover.😉 The reason I was going for welding the nut on, was there's probably enough thread to wind it on few turns but being bored I had ago with mole grips, so probably no thread left now.🤣 Somewhere I have some Duckoil, so may give that a go over the weekend if I can find it. I really hope I don't have to resort to a machine shop...😥 Working tomorrow but my son is off so hopefully he will return my mig as he's taken it to his unit. Anyway once again, thank you.

So, I've managed to snap one of the thermostat housing bolts on my 90. It's left enough thread to screw a nut on and weld it on. I have put some wd40 on it and plan to weld the nut on tomorrow, hopefully the wd40, the heat and the nut will be enough to undo it. Any other suggestions before I make things worse?🤣

I take it the sender is 1/8 NPT? Sorry for the late reply, work has been hectic over the last few weeks. I purchased a TIM temperature gauge with sender and didn't require an adapter, just screwed right in. The gauge seems to be sitting at about 80°on a short warm up. Got the day off tomorrow, so eill take it for a quick run. On a side not, not paying attention, pulled the ECU sender out by mistake, as I unplugged it, on of the wires snapped, so that now has new connectors on it too. Fingers crossed that's the end of that saga, just a couple of minor jobs at the weekend ready for the 140 mile trip to the LRO Show. I know I have been rather absent from my own thread but I have really appreciated the advice given by you guys...🙂🙏

I take it the sender is 1/8 NPT?

Thanks, will have a look...👍

After months of procrastination, finally had a proper look. Earth behind the clocks appears to be good according to my circuit tester. Unplugging the sensor does nothing to change the actions of the temp gauge and as far as I could see, the wiring is fine. When the ignition was left on, the gauge would go from cold to off the scale and then slowly sink down before climbing back of the chart. So my conclusion using the above advice is to order a new gauge as I want this sorted before the LRO show as it's a above 140 miles each way. Thank you for all your input.

Yes, it's fine. The test drive showed no movement from the temp gauge even when hot. So gone from red hot with ignition on to nothing. Unfortunately due to work, not going to get a chance to look at it for a couple of weeks. I'll report back. 😁

Well, just been out and turned the ignition on. No movement from the guage, so going to take her for a test drive later and see what the guage does. Thinking about adding a totally stand alone guage and in hose sensor as a back up regardless of what I have to do to the original. Also wondering about a separate engine monitoring system as water temp is the only way I currently have of monitoring the engine.

Haven't had time to touch it, so having a quick look now. Have bought a new stat to fit as I am going to replace a couple of hoses when I have the plenum chamber off soon. I appreciate all the replies and will be back with the results...😁

I have a laser thermometer, that's how I know the engine isn't overheating, as I checked when I got home from the mot test. Will go and check the wiring. Not sure, not had a problem until recently. The conversation was done nearly 20 years ago by Frogs Island. From what I can see there are two senders, one is identfor the v8 and 300tdi, the other I think is different, but I didn't realise there were two until a little while ago. Thank you

To be honest, didn't notice the gauge reading hot until I replaced the rad last summer. The conversation was done nearly 20 years ago. I will check the earths once it's stopped raining... Should have been the first thing I checked...lol Thank you.

So the 90 has according to the gauge been running hot for the last few weeks, just under the red. Tuesday, the gauge goes to the top of the red, so let the 90 cool, turn the ignition on and the gauge goes to the top of the red. Unplug the temp sender and the gauge still goes straight to red. Not being an electrical genius, I am surmising a faulty gauge. Now unless I have missed something, it's time to order a new gauge. Now do I go for an original or something after market that has the temp in numbers rather than white and red? Do I order a new sender, just to be safe? Any answers suggestions welcome. The 90 is like triggers broom. 1993 200tdi model with a 1994 Discovery 3.9efi with auto box. New radiator with twin electric fans, which didn't come on but I know are working.

Absolutely gutted, I can't really go into details but a representative from JLR came to my work with a large scale model of the new Defender. Unfortunately as the only Land Rover fan working, I was on a break when he came in...🙁

I don't know. I would buy the new 80" Defender or the back to basics two door Range Rover that LR have started to build...

I seem to remember that on a previous thread, someone also put ducting inside the dash so that the hot air is directed straight to the vents...

We need a multi point lock, so when you lock the door a bar goes into the tub and the bulkhead...

How about a wire that plugs the Defender into the house? Unplug the wire and an alarm goes off in the house unless switched off inside first...

In the interview last year, the guy said he asked to buy the tooling from LR. They said no, so he said he would make all new tooling as it would have a better finish than the old LR stuff. He made it sound like it would look exactly like the Defender but with better engines and quality control...

Caustic soda will get most stuff off... You should be able to find a local company locally...

I'm using hydrate 80, then a coat of electrox, followed by bilt hamber 2 pack epoxy mastic paint, then top coat... Hopefully that will last a few years... For the bits I cant get to I am soaking the parts in 9/1 water-molasses, then after a good wash and rub down with a scourer any bits I can reach, finally soaking them in 4/1 phosphoric acid - water... Warnings... Phosphoric acid when mixed with water is pretty harmless unless you get it in your eyes and it stings like buggery if you have a cut, I have been working with bare hands without problems... The 2 pk paint is a hard to get off your hands and needs xylene to clean up, so wear gloves...

Hopefully this works and there are some pictures of my 90 attached...John http://s163.photobucket.com/user/landrovermanuk/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160131_161609.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=37926269&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=1 ]http://s163.photobucket.com/user/landrovermanuk/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160131_161628.jpg.html]

He is a top chap and his work puts many others to shame... I just wish I could upload a couple pics of mine but my pc is playing up...

For some reason I can't up load any of my pictures, so until I sort out picture hosting, I have found these pics on line of Clive's work. John...

First of all, I must start off by apologising to Clive, I said I would do this a while back. Like many of you, the rear cross member on my 90 was rotting and had been patched to get it through the MOT. Unfortunately as you know this is only a temporary fix. After a lot of research I realised I had a few choices. Build my own cross member, satisfying but realistically very slow in my case. Buy a L/R cross member and have it fitted, expensive. Buy a pattern part, dubious build quality. Finally I found http://www.blacksheepcrossmember.co.uk/ I spent quite a while reading up about Clive and his cross members. All the reviews told of the highest quality work. I was sold. I contacted Clive and he came round to see the 90. A price was agreed and the last weekend in January was booked for the work. On the Saturday morning I dropped the 90 off at his workshop, Clive showed me the cross member and fitting kit he had made. Being 6mm thick, it’s a sturdy thing of beauty. Sunday lunchtime I got a phone call, the 90 was ready. I went to collect the 90 and was met with a greatly improved rear end. Clive explained that the loom for the rear lights had become brittle and some of the wires had snapped when he had moved it up out of the way. He fixed it but didn’t want any money for this work but I insisted in paying him extra. He went on to say he had had some problems spraying the new metal work due to the cold clogging his spray gun. It looks fine to me. Anyway enough rambling. I have no financial interest in Clive but I do believe that great service and workmanship should be rewarded by being spoken about. Clive can be found at the above site or on Facebook. He’s moved workshop but doesn’t advertise its location for security. It’s probably best to contact him via email first off, he has two mobiles, one on Facebook and the other on his website. That’s because one works at home but not at his workshop and the other works at his workshop but not at home… For some reason I can't add pictures, I will keep trying. If you require pics of the work, I can email them to you... Any questions don’t hesitate to ask… John ​

Aren't Land Rover bound to supply parts for up to 5 years after end of production? The guy on the factory tour said that LR were going to supply parts for 10 years... If that's the case you should still be able to get new chassis...