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tommi

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  1. Hi all, I recently replaced the rear quarter panels on my Defender tub – thought this might be useful for anybody who’s considering the same. Mine had corroded around the rear crossmember bolts, and where the corner cappings were bonded. Before you start; if you’re content with your current rear door gap, measure the opening at top and bottom of the aperture (between each side of tub), so you can use this as a reference when fitting the new panels! First, remove the top cappings from the tub, along with light fittings etc: The panel is attached with pop rivets and spot welds. Both will need to be drilled out (I used a 4.8mm drill). First I tackled the spot welds on the corner of the tub: Once removed, use a suitable tool to split the panels: Next, drill out the five spot welds in the centre of the panel: There are four spot welds where the door seal is retained: Three pop rivets on the inner face against the wheel arch: And a combination of spot welds and pop rivets at the bottom of the panel – not a great picture but you get the idea. Finally, there are two solid rivets at the bottom of the panel, which have to be dealt with through the wheel arch. I used a grinder; access is not great but workable: You should then be able to ease the panel away and remove (taking care not to distort other panels in the process): You can see some of the corrosion here: I used replacement panels from Paint Man Panels (https://www.paintmanpanels.co.uk/). I have nothing to compare against, but they seem good quality. First, clean up the mounting faces, and deburr any holes. You’ll need to ensure that they are sufficient size for your new pop rivets (in my case 4.8mm). I used Sikaflex 221 sealant to bond the panels together; apply a decent bead to the mating surfaces: Fit the new panel into position; I secured with some clamps, before adding a rivet into the top corner (this will later be covered by the top capping): At this point, you should make sure make sure the rear door gap is good (based on your previous measurements). There is little ability to influence the bottom gap, but the top can easily be tweaked by 10mm or so by pulling the assembly inwards (to ensure a parallel gap). Once you’re happy, drill holes for the pop rivets through the new outer panel, using the old spot weld / pop rivet holes for positioning: And then rivet; I used “sealed” rivets. Repeat in the middle of the panel: I’m removing the tub again for paint, so will add additional fixings in place of the two solid rivets in due course (it would be difficult to drill these in position). Complete: Hopefully this might be useful for anybody sizing up this job! Kind regards, Tom
  2. Recently got a few quotes for a full respray of a 90 - between £6 - £12k… most places insisted on it being media blasted back to bare aluminium too. Kind regards, Tom
  3. Hello all, Looking for some collective guidance! I have just purchased a refurbished 200TDI head from a reputable supplier. There is some corrosion around the waterways which concerns me - surely this is likely to lead to premature gasket failure? It extends beyond the red lines on the gasket (which I assume is where the actual seal is made). The head gasket has smaller “openings” where the corrosion is (circled in yellow). This is my first engine rebuild; am I right to be concerned, or is there a good explanation as to why this won’t cause any issues? Thanks!
  4. Many thanks all - it was 5/16” UNF!
  5. Thanks Western - I hadn’t realised the 08 reflected the thread. Mine are definitely not M8 however… above diagram is from the SIII parts book. I’d like to put a longer bolt in, but unsure as to the thread! 1/2” bolt head. Tom
  6. Hi all, I wonder if any knowledgeable forum members can help me identify the size / thread of a bolt… 1978 Series 3; the bolt that fastens to MUC1324, circled in the attached diagram. I understand that MUC1324 has been superseded by AHR710300 which is M8, but I’d like to know what the original thread is. Many thanks! Tom
  7. Unfortunately I've been rota'd in at work, so won't be able to make this after all...
  8. Count me in! Not sure if I'll stay the night yet - not all that far away from me. Tom
  9. Got a Waeco kit that I've been meaning to fit for ages - I quite like this idea:
  10. All the lights are working - passed its MOT a few days back. Vehicle is ex-waterboard - it does have a couple of switches / holes in roof where rotating beacons were presumably fitted, but can't see a logical reason for a connector in that location...
  11. One of the wires is red & blue, the other is black as far as I can tell. No, definitely not the reverse switch. Seems to be part of the original loom, but everything I can think of is connected up and working...
  12. Thanks for your help western - had a better look at it and the single cable is actually black / blue and has a bullet connector - much appreciated. No idea what the other connector is for thou!
  13. Hi all Some time ago I fitted a replacement transferbox in my Defender - it's been off the road for quite a while now. It's been so long since I did it I can't remember what the deal was with the diff lock switch wiring. On the right hand chassis member I have the following: A two pin connector, and a single blue cable with a spade connection on the end of it. Assuming this is factory, does anybody know what's what? Logic would say the two pin connector is the diff lock switch loom? Any help is gratefully received - save me having to roll around in the cold with a multimeter
  14. Some more info about replacement etc here, from the tech archive: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55697
  15. What sort of time might you happen to be leaving on sunday morning, where i might coincidentally happen to meet you?
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