marieholm

It all went together perfectly. finally a leak free swivel. Thank you for all your advise.

Hi, I'm currently having the same problem. The seal on the input side is leaking and I hope I don't have to take the whole box out (again). Has anybody tried to replace the seal with the box fitted in the car? (mine is a 110 rhd btw)

Perfect. That went well.

Hi, I bought a replacement kit for my 1985 110 swivel. I just got the kit and I’m pre-assembling the bearing based on Some YouTube films. The top bearing seams different toen what I see on YouTube. this is what I have got. Two questions: 1. can I fit the Bush in the housing before fitting it to the car? 2. Am I correct that the flat side needs to be positioned towards the Wheel? cheers

Thanks al, i fitter it without the shield. Hope it Will be fine.

Thanks for the advice! Fitted it without the mud shield and all seems to be well. Now just replace the drop arm of the steering box and I can finally start using it again.

Thanks western. Will try That. weird that is shown on all pictures the other way around.

But can you then still fit the bolts? Here it is not yet fully on

Working on the LR today and the front diff went without problems but the rear is not. If i tighten the pinion nut the axle.blocks and i can’t move the car. it looks like the mud shield hits the diff. the old flange did not have the shield. Do i have the wrong part or am I doing something wrong?

thanks for all the help. I ordered all the parts andd hope to have everything fixed this weekend.

Thanks Snagger, I just read another post of you stating the same. Great to have a forum with so much info (just need to find it before dismanteling) I'm also going to replace the flange on the front diff. Am I correct that this should be the correct one: https://www.lrdirect.com/236632-Drive-Flange-Rover-Axle/ thanks again.

No did not count the turns... what to do? btw, it was veruit tight.

It is a 1985 110 SW I’m Afraid I don’t have a descent picture of the diff

 Dear members, I’m in the process of replacing the seals behind the drive flange on both front and rear diff. The front is going according to plan but when I took out the rear diff seal it looked different then what I was expecting . I thought It would be the same as the front one but it has a different size nut (32mm) and the seal looks different to. For the front I used seal FRC4586G and I thought the rear would be the same. Below a picture of what I took out the rear diff. Is this a salsbury axle and should I then use the one Below? https://allmakes4x4.com/flange_kit_rear_axle_diff_pinion_salisbury_axle_110_130_stc4457.html Many thanks for your help!

all, Just wanted to let you know that thanks too your advise and help I fitted the new prop this week and the landy drives great. no more clunks or scary rattles. Many thanks!!!

Great help thanks. I think I was confused as I now have a 200tdi defender engine which replaced the 2,5na. And because I never changed the gearboxes I presumed that the props should be the same.... Just ordered the FTC3245. lets hope that one fits. Thanks for your help (and patience....)

Rechecking the numbers I think I need the FTC3245 as it is a 2,5NA originally. Hope LRdirect will take it back as it is out of the packing allready.

Just fit The nee prop but it looks different. the old ons is shorter. in The shortest position The new one is slightly shorter than The old one in The longest position. I ordered The FRC8389 is it safe to fit this one?

perfect, thanks so much for the help. Just ordered the FRC8389 and a fresh set of bolts.

Thanks for the advice. I just checked the parts numbers. I have a 2.5na stw 110 with the normal lt77 and lt230 (it has a 200tdi but that should not matter right?) Can I use the FRC8389? it says that this is for the 300tdi / td5 models. directly available. the FRC8389 is for the 200tdi but has one 1 delivery time

With a bid of luck I managed to get the last bolts of the UJ on the handbrake drum side. I hammered a 14mm socket on and it worked. I’m fitting the new UJ on the axle side and I noticed the yoke (spelling??) seems to have a fair bit of wear. It shouldn’t look like this right? For now I’m going to fit the new UJ anyway but should it be better to just replace the prop completely?

This is The sound it Made btw. stil seems strange That The uj make this noise IMG_0219.MOV

is the 9/16 different from the prop shaft tool?

Thanks Bowie69. I have the propshaft tool but it slips over the nut. The 14mm doesn't fit but I might be able to hammer it on. Before getting the hammer out I was hoping that a more "gentle" solution would be possible.

Not wanting to be the test dummy of a home made reconstruction of the Myth busters test I have started replacing the worn UJ. Yesterday evening I tried to take out the rear prop. The axle side came undone really wel. The handbrake side did not. The nuts are completely trashed. I think the previous owner tried to undo them with the wrong spanner. The worn UJ is the one on the axle side so i just took the prop apart (marked the position) and took out the UJ. It was in really bad shape. It fel apart when i tried to push it out but the play was still minimal. I'm wondering how this can make such a noise while driving. Could anyone explain? And does anybody have a good trick/tip to undo the bolts of the prop on the handbrake side? Thanks again.