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marieholm

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Everything posted by marieholm

  1. Perfect thanks, I hope the rattling stops with this fix.
  2. Could this be it. The uj on The rear looks pretty bad. just drove it 20 minutes and it started vibrating pretty bad. many thanks for Your help
  3. Thanks Western. I checked the mud shields. I think they are fitted correctly. the turn with the prop shaft and I don't see any scratches which may indicate that they are hitting the diff housing. I greased the props (5 pumps of the grease gun). However, the rattle is still there. It's primarily when driving away. If I accelerate faster it seems to stop. Could the rattle come from the prop itself (and/or UJ's)? what else could it be? Many thanks.
  4. Perfect thanks. I’ll look for the 3rd nipple. can you just tap The muf shield back in?
  5. I hope it’s okay to an older tread. I’m currently experiencing a very nasty rattle coming from the transfer box/ prop shaft area. It seems to appear mostly at low speeds and after accelerating/cornering or going over a bump. After reading several treads I suspect the UJ’s are bad. So thanks to the forum I managed to get the front prop of and replaced the front UJ. I did not feel any real play in the UJ but there was no grease in it left. ( I should have greased this more regularly). As my circlip plyers gave up I couldn’t change the other UJ both this also had no real play. After reassembly the rattle was gone….. for a couple of days. It’s back now and I’m wondering what it could be. Is it possible the UJ is worn without signs of play? And the front mud shield feels slightly loose bot does not have obvious marks of coming in contact with the prop. Could this make the rattling sound? Last question, could it be the prop shaft itself/ does this need greasing also? Many thanks for your advice.
  6. Thanks for all the tips. it seems like the manifold/exhaust is leeking. I can feel the air flow by it. Can you "overtighten" the clamp? is their a risk of breaking the manifold?
  7. Does iT? Ill check the bolts. I was afraid iT was the nee turbo...... no idea about the boost yet.
  8. All, its in! The engine is running again. But I think I hear a noise which was not there before. It’s sounds like a rattle. what do you make of iT? I did not drive it yet so the engine is still cols as i filmed iT.
  9. Sorry, no not all the holes line up on the gasket. im not Sure If this would be a problem. Punching the holes is not a problem but Will iT work correctly?
  10. Hi all, the New cartridge is ordered. i also got Some New gaskets but they seem wrong. I cant check iT with the old one because there wasn’t one fitted. is this normal?
  11. Thanks. I would like to buy locally (Netherlands) and I can only find the one with the different number. Are they all different? Is the number I posted the same as yours? thanks again.
  12. Hi, So I'm looking for the right cartridge. Does anybody know if this is the correct one for a 200tdi defender: GARRETT TB02 454113-0002 Cheers,
  13. ITS OUT!!!!! some extra lubrication And light tapping with the hammer did the trick. Thank God mo need for turbocharging the oven of the mrs. For the circlip I trimmed a small pliers which worked well. so what do is smart to change out besides the cartridge? is the waste gate something to check? Any other tips?
  14. The nuts are loose but no movement so far. Going to try again tonight.
  15. Hi all, So after Some fiddling I took of the whole manifold as red90 suggested. Two of the turbo bolts where stuck And broke. With a lot of penetrating oil And Some luck I got all the ends out. now I just have to “split” the turbo houding. Is this a case of more oil And Some light tappend with a wooden hammer?
  16. Thanks for all the replies. it doesn't sound very easy but I'll give it a try. Cheers,
  17. Hi Western, Thanks for the quick respons. I can't just remove te 4 bolts on the housing and remove the front of the turbo?
  18. Hi, My defender 200tdi turbo has considerable play so I'm planning to replace the cartridge. I have never worked on the turbo so I'm wondering if anybody has any tips on how to remove it easily. Is it possible to undo the 4 bolts directly after the housing, the actuator and oil lines and than remove it or do I have to remove the manifold as well? Tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Cheers,
  19. the crash joint is new. The complete shaft can be moved by hand for about a half turn both ways. Never thought about checking this with the engine on. is this normal or not?
  20. All, Last weekend I got the Landy running again so. Happy Days! This also ment that I was able to further investigate on the steering. What I did: - Changed the steering damper (bushings where shot and it seemed to be worn out); - Checked the all the bushings. seemed in good order; - PAS fluid reservoir is full; - belt is fairly tight and doesn't make strange noises; The steering feels vague/ lot of play in it. Could this be the adjustment on the steeringbox (6 bolt version)? How can this be adjusted? Cheers,
  21. All, It works!!! Fitted the new starter and it fired up perfectly. Thanks for all the advice. With the help of this forum it was an easy job. (well besides the horrible location of the starter) Cheers,
  22. Just received the new starter motor. Hope I can fit it this weekend and start using the landy again. Thanks again for the help!
  23. Thanks Western, Will check those as well. I would like to order a starter motor to be sure. (would like to drive it again asap) Would all 200tdi starters fit or did they change them during the production of the 200tdi. I'm thinking about the Bearmach one. https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR5009-Starter-Motor-2Tdi-Late-3Tdi-New/ (my engine code is 11L35691A) Thank again.
  24. Monkie, yes, from the batterie to the earth point on the starter. Still nothing I’m afraid. Anything else I can try?
  25. So checken the wires. - red/white: has power at the terminal - + has power at the starter - terminals are clean. - knuckels are shot because of that sodding exhaust. What a plain to get loose.. Any other ideas? cheers
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