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odl21

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  1. I thought I should update the board for closure. I eventually found one setting 'map sample angle' that needed to be changed from 90 to 45 degrees. As soon as i did this, the pulse width started adjusting constantly and everything worked just perfectly. the auto tune very quickly dialed it in using the innovate sensor and a small tweak of accel enrichment improved the throttle response. Anyway - in case anyone has issues - make sure MAP sample angle is 45 degrees for a V8!
  2. Hello Again, I played with the Range Rover again today and this time installed an innovate LC1 wideband controller and sensor that i had lying around. i connected the brown analogue output to the MS o2 connection and told tuner studio that it was a wide band sensor. Now it has become clearer the problem i'm facing. namely that the pulse width never really changes much. sometimes it jumps a large amount but then stays there even when the TPS changes until it jumps again a few seconds later. as i change the fuel value in the cell of the VE map that its idling on, there is no change in the pulse width or the AFR. not sure if my injector settings are just completely wrong. I have attached them. i would like to attach the log but the forum doesn't accept msl or zip attachments. if anyone would be kind enough to take a look, I could email it. thanks. edit: log is here: http://owainlloyd.no-ip.com:8080/photos/sticky_pulse_width.msl.zip and msq is here: http://owainlloyd.no-ip.com:8080/photos/Rover4.2.msq
  3. think you are right about the 4 wire. three wire is sometimes bombing down to 0V for extended periods and engine barely runs until it recovers. guess the engine ground is shaky. will try with 4 wire tomorrow. Luckily I ran a spare ground in my loom and used a 4 pin plug for the sensor in anticipation of this! AE seems to be OK now (after another hour of fiddling) except when this O2 condition occurs. Also, when it idles it is in a portion of the map with an AFR target of 14.7 but the actual measured AFR is about 12.5. why is that? why doesn't the autotune adjust it to provide less fuel? none of the auto tune advanced settings (such as max 50%) are stopping it.
  4. another couple of hours spend on it today using the auto tune feature. it made a few adjustments - mainly to make it richer but it did result in a rather lumpy map despite the car driving pretty well. i might smooth it out manually. i wonder is this is related to the delay in the exhaust reaching the sensor being incorrect. it should be possible to measure that at various engine speeds by entering incorrect values in the map and seeing how long it takes the sensor to pick up the extra rich (or extra lean) combustion. in any case, the acceleration enrichment is not right still despite some fiddling (it stumbles on jabs of the throttle). its not easy to get it right with a narrow band. i do have a couple of LC1's which i may wire up to get this right. seems to me that it would not be too hard for software to automatically tune the acceleration enrichment too.
  5. That was easier than expected. Took about an hour to remove the Y pipe, drill it in front of the right hand rover sensor, weld in a bung, paint it and replace the pipe. didnt even need to jack up the car! Looking forward to auto tuning it with the oxygen sensor later this week.
  6. well, it's running reasonably. i used the wizard to come up with 'required fuel' (18) and the default map based on the stock power and torque. i needed to add a little more fuel to lower left of the map but also had to bump up 'required fuel' to 23. i couldn't do too much more as i don't have the oxygen sensor installed. turns out the rover threads are 14mm and a universal 18mm sensor won't fit. didn't read that anywhere on this forum. i will have to drop the Y pipe, drill it and weld a bung in. it does stumble when i blip the throttle so i guess the accel enrichment is wrong. not much point in continuing without the o2 sensor, so i called it a day.
  7. mine is a 4.2. i've only spent 4 hours on the project so far and its running but i'm still gathering more info (like how many steps the stepper has). i've read somewhere the specs but can't find them now. ms2 seams perfectly friendly (if not more than ms1 - easier to calibrate and test sensors etc). you basically are on your own with ms2 i think but it should be perfectly possible to get it running well.
  8. I'm using ms2 - mainly because it can drive the rover idle stepper motor - less to change. The biggest problem it getting anyone to talk to you other than to say 'use ms1'
  9. perhaps, but that is not today's project. the motivation here is to fix somethings that doesn't work. the ignition is working adequately and can be adjusted to a degree already (just takes more work). also, ignition changes are very visible whereas the fueling-only changes are practically invisible and i'd like to keep the car as stock as possible. after all, it would be far easier to put a 5.0 small block crate motor in and get 400 easy and reliable HP. but that's not the point.... without wanted to sound rude, i'd be grateful of any assistance to the problems i need solving rather that criticism of my choices.
  10. I built my loom today and connected everything up with the IAT sensor in open air and one injector not wired (i used my 8th EV1 plug for the rover CTS). as it all seemed to go smoothly and the sensors all worked, I started the engine. To my surprise, it actually started then died after a few seconds. I suspect the IAC valve is wired the wrong way and suppose it needs to be removed the test which direction it goes it. TunerStudio has a nice 'idle valve test' tool. Can someone supply me with the correct settings for the 'injector characteristics' and 'engine constants' screens? Also could use the number of IAC steps and some working temperature->steps mappings. And finally, would love to see a screen shot of a 3.9 and 4.5 fuel map. don't seem to be able to find one again in that million page thread!
  11. OK, I bought a 3 wire bosch sensor for $30 from summit, a bunch of 3mm silicon vacuum hose and a tee piece and 8 bosch EV1 connectors for $2 each on ebay. Hopefully this is everything I need. The wire bundle from DIYautotune is very good with each wire printed with is function and MS pin number. I'm going to manually enter the fuel maps from published in nige's thread and interpolate the values between 3.9 and 4.5 litre versions and add a few more steps around idle and at the top end given the extra spaces in the MS2. I'm going to keep the 14CUX installed and only have a few weatherpack plugs and injector plugs to swap over to switch between that and MS. this way I can happily drive it around to tune it without worrying about getting stuck somewhere and not being able to start it.
  12. Thanks all! 1) is this the one? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-ev1-p-111.html 2) that's cheaper than I expected. Only ever purchased wide band sensors before! Buying from 'nige' isn't so convenient though as I'm in New York (although I am British). A look for a 'generic' sensor over here then.
  13. Hello, I've finally got round to installing my MS2 in my stock '93 Range Rover 4.2. I'm using it only to replace the lucas fuel system as I have a few changes to the engine and mainly due to an untraceable problem with the injection cutting out when idleing and warm and not restarting for about an hour. Almost everything on this forum relates to fuel +EDIS ignition for people wanting to make a waterproof V8, and so is mostly over the top for my install. I'm using MS2 (for the idle stepper motor control and a relay board, both located under the passender seat in the stock location. I have a few simple questions that i'd be grateful for any help with: 1) which connector plug is the stock fuel injector? Is it the bosch EV1? 2) seems like the rover o2 sensor won't work with MS as it measures backwards being a different design to most o2 sensors? any recommended cheap replacement narrowband sensor that will screw into the stock boss? 3) is it ok to take vacuum from the plenum using a T in the distributor advance hose and running it to the MS? 4) any reason not to use the rover coolant temp sensor instead of a replacement GM one and recalibrate the software for it? It's resistance doesn't seem to be as linear as the GM sensor so i'm slightly concerned how the MS will interpolate the 3 values given. 5) i have a GM sensor for intake air temp. currently pondering on the easiest way to install it. considering drilling and tapping the air filter housing. 6) engine RPM input. I can either use the appropriate pin from the lucas ECU or just connect to the coil -ve. Any reason to do one or the other? 7) could do with an MS2 map to use as a starting point. my engine is a 4.2 but 3.9 would be a start. thanks!
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