DC_
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Posts posted by DC_
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Trouble is I can't get anything in enough to lever it. The only real way to persuade it is with screw driver and hammer.
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Cheers.
Only bolts are on it are the studs with 10mm nuts on them on the other side of the disk.
Off down to the motor factors to see if they have plusgas in.
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Defo not bolts in the ring.
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Are we talking bolts actually on top of the ring in picture 1 ?
It's mainly the grooves that have mud in them but I don't see any space for bolts. The five nuts have been loosened as in picture 2.
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http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/site/froogle/sn/PLG803
take it this is the job ? Soak it over night?
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Plusgas? Need to look into that one. I'll have a look for the freeze and release at my local factors etc .
Cheers for the input.
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Ok it's had it's soak and it's still not for shifting. Big flat headed screw driver and hammer?? Does it actually just sit in there?
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It's in the garage soaking in WD40 I'll see if I can get it moving at some point tamara. If it should lift off it's no way moving !!!
Cheers for the info keep it coming folks
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It's really is well and truly stuck in there. Soak in WD40 overnight?
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Hammer time?
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Hi folks. Once again I'm out in the garage doing what I thought was gona be a simple disc and bearing change is turning out a pain.
Question is how do I get the old disk away from the hub? Undo the bolts I hear you cry ! Hmmmm there is a metal plate inside the disk preventing me from getting to the hub bolts . I'll post a pic as soon as I upload it to photobucket. How the hell do I get that plate out? I've undone the five 10 mm bolts that I thought held the disk on but it's still not shifting .
Help !!
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Dizzy? Bob weights loose? Sha**ed rotor arm/cap?
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Would ssy they need to be moved about 10-20 degrees. Decisions decisions !
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What, this one?
Only thing I would say is make the top hose a 90, not 45 or straight as in that thread, the straight in that one sticks out way more than mine, and mine is a 45, and I still find it a pain occasionally when trying to plumb in other stuff.
Got the oil cooler fitted for now
The winch is a tight fit alright, but i reckon i can bend the original pipes to accomodate moving the cooler up to avoid the winch. Only trouble is it may kink the pipes??
There's enought play in the pipes to do it.
Has anyone tried to bend these pipes?
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Yup, only spillage from the pipes
Depending on how tight the bumper is, you may find you need to relocate the cooler, there's a thread in the tech archive about it
does anyone have the link for the tech archive thread?
Think it's gona need relocated :-(
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I think there's a place east end radiators at Alexandria parade. Might give him a wee ring. If I can't source another one I'll try the chemical metal and see dust joy that brings.
Cheers for the imput :-) keep it coming !
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I think I need to get the cooler off then fit the winc. It may slide in then be able to refit cooler.
I'll defo have a look at the archive thread as my luck will need a relocation.
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Had a look today and looks much like a plumbing job so shouldnt be too bad a job (he says owning a landie)
Just need to try source one now.
As long as the oil isn't pumping i'm assuming there will only be spillage from the pipes?
Cheers
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In from the garage with new bumper fitted although i think the "bog brush" is gona have to come off anyhoo to get the winch in place as it's a tad tight.
Got he rave CD also so will have a gander through that but if you guys of wisdom can enlighten me would be mucho appreciated!!
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Looked at the haynes. Tells you nothing. Any tips on fitting removal?
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Bog brush?
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RRC rear brake disc baffles me !!
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Ok cheers guys !!! Will get the nuts tightened a bit and try lever it against the hub.
Bigger F O hammer at the ready too