Ash.Witty
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Posts posted by Ash.Witty
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If its a gems 4.6, fit a stat into the inlet manifold, take the heater feed from the inlet manifold side and tee the heater return into the bottom hose. The rest is simple, one pipe from the outlet to the top of the rad, lower hose needs a tee for the header tank as well.
Does your rad have twin bleed pipe ports? If so one from the throttle body to rad and then rad to expansion tank.
Or one port: tee the throttle body and rad to the expansion tank.
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Its easy, as long as you have the correct gems or Thor cam sprocket and flywheel you can't go wrong.
Now, do you have the gems or Thor type inlet manifold? Is it going to be an auto or manual?
The gems type injection system is easier to work with.
You will need to order the correct cam sprocket if its being changed, if its auto keep the gems starter ring or manual you will need to source a 4.0 flywheel as it has milled cut outs. This is all doweled so as long as everything is correct the ecu will controll the timing side
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Is this cam timing or ignition timing using a distributor setup?
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If you remove the 6 bolt plate where the pto would fit, you can pull the rear bearing carrier and input gear out.
You can have a good look at the splines then.
LT77 and early transfer boxes were prone to wearing with a 2" spline section and poor lubrication, rectified with cross drilled gears.
the R380 and later LT230 transfer boxes had a 3" spline section and cross drilled gear as standard, the larger spline surface along with good lubrication decreased wear substantially.
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Its a bad setup by Land Rover, rectified on the 200tdi.
You'll find that the engine breather pipe is fitted 'pre filter' to the air box inlet, where as on a Tdi the pipe is routed 'post filter' between the air box and turbo.
If it was me, I'd disconnect the pipe for now or modify the pipe work with a tee piece so that it joins between the filter box and turbo.
This is how many TD engines died in the 80's by running off an oil soaked filter.
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You say you've done a bit of work, but have the heads ever been off?
Are they on pressed tin or composite gaskets? As the tin head gaskets are notorious for blowing into the valley.
Have you done a compression test since?
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Do a compression test, mine did similar when the head gasket went between two cylinders.
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The hot pipe from the inlet manifold goes to the front pipe on the matrix and the rear pipe from the matrix goes to the thermostat/lower hose.
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What material is on the friction plate? Std sprung clutch cover? Mild or heavy tuned engine?
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Got the T-shirt
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I'm not sure if its a U.S spec diagram.... But u.k spec 4.0&4.6 have the remote thermostat located in the bottom hose, where as this diagram shows it in the manifold. The pipe 22 will go to the lower hose to recirculate the coolant through the block before the thermostat opens.
I've found a few pictures, the pipe is suited to your diagram. And the other two are the remote stat type system and coolant flow diagram. The last shows the differences between the 3.9&4.0 type systems the 3.9 has its equivalent of pipe 22 returning to the rear of the water pump housing but on the inlet side which has the same effect as plumbing up to the bottom hose.
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Cool, I know where I'm off to on Sunday
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Hi James,
I've done the 6BT conversion, the link above is to my thread.
What would you like to know? Also if you're on Facebook we have a Cummins Land Rover page dedicated to the conversion,
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I like the sound of the 10%, nice and easy to work out.
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Roughly 5 weeks till the Peterborough Land Rover show, trying to get all parts sorted this week for the rebuild.
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That's brilliant!
Groove for 4mm diameter o-ring: 3.46mm deep and 5.4mm wide.
Thanks for the quick reply, I googled a few things but guess I was looking for the wrong thing....
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I'm going to be making some billet ally core plugs for my Cummins powered Defender, they're available in the states but are $60 a piece and I need 6.....
Soo as they are super simple, I have drawn up plans to have them turned out but I need a little help with working out the O-ring protrusion and groove width.
The core plug holes are 58mm and I'm going to use an o-ring with a cross section of 4mm, so I was thinking of cutting the groove at 51.5mm diameter to give .75mm protrusion and 4.5mm width to give it room to manoeuvre....
Does this sound right? Or does anyone have any knowledge or tables/charts that I can trawl through?
Cheers
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Does it read 100ft lbs dry or lubricated threads? my set never came with instructions.
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I had an Arp kit on my 4.2 Turbocharged RV8, with a wet torque i.e. with the moly lube I did them to 60ft lbs as the lube gives an additional torque of 20-30%
Which would give a torque of 72-78ft lbs.
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On my cummins converted 110, I used a 3/8" prv tapped into the the pressure line before the steering box, return to tank.
No trouble to date as it only works when at full lock.
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Might be worth measuring the block deck height as well, I've been googling but I can't find the info.... From pictures it looks a bit different.
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The block is essentially a 3.5, and has a mega stroked crank to take it to 4.4.
3.5- 88.9mm bore 71mm stroke
A 3.9 uses the same crank as a 3.5, just 94mm bore.
P76 4.4- 88.9mm bore 88.9mm stroke
I think you could build a bigger beast by using the crank and rods from the P76 in the 3.9 block, I'm not 100% sure but if the gudgeon pin is at the same height from the crown it could all go together....
3.9 94mm bore and 88.9mm p76 crank would make 4931cc
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I ran a 4.2 on a 3.9 3 core radiator no problem, I had it recored to make it a 4 row rad after fitting a turbocharger and still never got above half way on the needle, I reckon it would have been fine with the 3 core
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I know the perfect chap you need to speak to...
Leon Atenborough works part time for Dave Gardner racing engines up near Lancaster, they build full blown race engines and Leon has a very high interest in performance diesels, especially tractor pulling and truck racing engines.
in the past he has modified his own 200tdi, with a hx35w turbo off a 5.9L cummins, larger distributor head on the injection pump etc.
Running High levels of boost, at the time it would do a quarter mile a second quicker than the u.k's fastest td5.
They can do anything you can imagine to do with performance tuning, the camshafts would be outsourced only as they haven't got a cam grinding machine themselves but they have a serious amount of kit in house.
Although they build race engines the prices are competively priced as I've been there this week to enquire about some block machining for my Cummins Land Rover engine....
V8 90 pipework
in International Forum
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That small bore pipe coming from the lower plenumn will be ideal to hook up to the brake servo.
I don't know what temp stat you're going to run but fit it in the front of the inlet manifold like on the earlier v8's and ditch the remote stat.