Ash.Witty

I've got a plan together, I had a good look around the body and once all the wiring and pipe work has been removed it should be ready to unbolt and lift off. I managed to find some nice 4"x4" box section welded to some 3/4" plate and some nice lengths of RSJ, I'm going to fabricate a nice substantial frame to jack the body off and allow it to be suspended whilst I work on the chassis below. Hopefully a bit more of an update tomorrow once I've made a start on the frame.

The bumper is twisted but chassis is straight, when I get chance next weekend I'll have a good weigh up of what you have said and see what I can sort out I'd like to be able to keep it suspended so I can role the casiis out and give it a full power wash, get it sand blasted, repaired and painted

I've just collected my new project, a 1981 109 S3 ambulance, body wise it's very good but my plan is to lift the rear body off to access the chassis, check its structural integrity , carry out any major repairs then refit. My question is this: apart from undoing all the obvious nuts and bolts what's the best way to lift or jack the body up? I was thinking about erecting a scaffold frame where I could use a pair of chain blocks and lift off, but i don't really Know where the correct place connect to the tub is. Anyone who has done this or has ideas please contribute

I thought it was bloody clever, I've still got to mount my welding vice to my workbench instead of crawling around on the floor.... p38 is up for some new disks and pads soon so I might have a dabble at making one of these

I'll update my build thread with one

last year I transplanted a 5.9L cummins 6bt into my Defender 110, I have been driving around without the inner wings for some time and thought it was about time I addressed the issue of being able to access the side of my engine and doing so without having to strip all the components off to access the four hard to reach bolts under the wing surface. I acquired a very good set of galvanised arches to modify for my requirements, firstly I removed all the wiring and washer bottle, I then located all the spot welds which hold the two halve together and drilled them all out. Using a pair of screwdrivers and a hammer I pryd the pieces apart. I then cut out a 6" section in the centre to allow me to remove and refit the arch without having to remove the shock turret. I then added six rivnuts to the piece that will be permanently attached to the wings. I then fit this piece to the wing and checked for alignment against the lower half to the chassis/bulkhead mounts. Once I aligned both parts I secured them together with M6 stainless bolts. This means I can now gain access the engine side quickly and easily to perform maintenance without stripping half the front end and still have dirt protection when off road.

last year I transplanted a 5.9L cummins 6bt into my Defender 110, I have been driving around without the inner wings for some time and thought it was about time I addressed the issue of being able to access the side of my engine and doing so without having to strip all the components off to access the four hard to reach bolts under the wing surface. I acquired a very good set of galvanised arches to modify for my requirements, firstly I removed all the wiring and washer bottle, I then located all the spot welds which hold the two halve together and drilled them all out. Using a pair of screwdrivers and a hammer I pryd the pieces apart. I then cut out a 6" section in the centre to allow me to remove and refit the arch without having to remove the shock turret. I then added six rivnuts to the piece that will be permanently attached to the wings. I then fit this piece to the wing and checked for alignment against the lower half to the chassis/bulkhead mounts. Once I aligned both parts I secured them together with M6 stainless bolts. This means I can now gain access the engine side quickly and easily to perform maintenance without stripping half the front end and still have dirt protection when off road.

I have QT 6' correction arms on my 110, from the above posts they seem to be the later type with no laser profiling between the two axle bush holes, They were fitted before I bought the vehicle and tyey're still going strong five years later. After carrying out an engine conversion I now have an extra 350KG sat over the front axle so I will be looking to upgrade to 'Beefier' arms. On the market there seems to be three types of arms that take my fancy, Gwyn Lewis std. corrected arms, Adrenaline 4x4 and W.K.D. Off Road arms which are solid and are going to be bent no time soon. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FRONT-HD-RADIUS-ARMS-CASTOR-CORRECTED-CORRECTION-HOCKEY-STICKS-/181477577370?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a40e8129a

The Bmw/Range Rover 3.0Td6 variable turbo would be a good one to use, all mechanical opperation and a larger unit so probably squeeze a bit more power out as well.

From reading the above it sounds as though the new cooler is more restrictive than the previous unit. As the gauge is tapped into the circuit after the cooler not before and the readings have dropped only after fitting the new radiator and cooler, the amount of oil flowing the cooler and being delivered to the engine main oil gallery has dropped causing the drop in pressure. Try an aditional oil pressure gauge fitted pre cooler and see if there is any differentiation before and after.

I quite like the sound of the om606 conversion, with a few tweaks it has the drivability of a petrol. If I had known about this engine before I did my 6bt swap there's a good possibility it could have ended up powered by an om606. Although I do like the huge amount of torque delivered by the cummins when it hits boost I can't help to think the transfer box, prop shafts and axle components are enjoying the 800+ft lbs of torque when my right foot is buried through the bulkhead...

Sounds good, cheers Lewis

Hi all, I have a Salisbury axle on the front of my 110 and I would like to strengthen the Tie rod to prevent it bending off road etc. I have a Gwyn Lewis solid drag link but I haven't found anyone fabricating them for the Salisbury axle, I was planning on welding on some angle along the lower or rearward side of the tube to beef it up. I'm uncertain what the best route to go down is, I have also considered having a new tie rod made out of 30mm solid round bar but I don't know any companies that can bend this to the same form as the hollow Salisbury one. Any help/advice would be much appreciated Ash

You want to fit the recess towards the bearings so the flat face is facing you as you're fitting it.

When I installed mine I couldn't work out if there was a correct orientation but it doesn't seem to matter, the dog teeth keep the unit locked and the torque loading frees up the particular side when turning etc. but remains lock on loose surfaces. I torqued my bolts up to 100Nm and used high strength 2701 loctite and everything seems quite happy. I didn't fit the thrust washers as there was no indication whether to or not, I've done about 20,000 miles with no metallic particles etc when carrying out oil changes. I didn't have a spreader tool but managed easily enough prising the diff centre out of the housing and catching it in a box full of rags as once the bearings are free from the housing it makes a quick escape.

I have changed my bonnet for the later puma bonnet type as I carried out an engine conversion and the turbocharger was about four inches too high for the original. I have noticed no difference at all in regards to the airflow flowing through the flaps when out driving.

It could be low compression in one or more cylinders, either worn rings/bore, possible scoring on the bore or poor seating of the valves. Without decent compression the diesel will fail to burn due to the lack of cylinder temps when cold but the tolerances reduced once the jacket water has warmed up etc. I'd do a compression test then if the results confirm low compression pull the head and inspect the internal condition of the engine.

Yes I had this on my 300Tdi 110, exactly the same symptoms. I think I used mintex pads and although they were the correct part number they were slightly too small for the caliper, I think I tried another brand after a few months of use which were a better fit and eliminated this problem but can't remember what brand. Might be worth going to your parts supplier and see if you can compare a few sets of brake pads back to back to see if there is some inconsistency in the sizing of the backplates.

10/40w for crank driven pumps, 20/50W for distributor driven pumps. If dizzy type, make a tool to pre-lube the system by driving the pump off a drill so you know you have oil for start up. crank driven pumps gain pressure quickly, by turning over on the starter motor with out the plugs fitted. Once its started and established you have oil pressure and no leaks or knocks etc get it up to 2500rpm for about 20 minutes or you can potentially flatten the lobes of the cam if its left idling too long, this is important to bed in the flat tappet type cam. If it sounds good eg. Timing is good let it run its course of 20mins. if the timing needs to be adjusted at any point the best thing to do is to switch off the engine, program in the new parameters then start it and back up to 2500rpm.

Try Alan Dick Engineering, we use them a lot at work and I've had a few Landy jobs done there. Located near the Heysham golf course next to H.M.T shipping. Fred is the chap you need to speak to, top quality work and good pricing.

The first gear is 4.5:1 off the top of my head then the ratios follow a similar spec to an R380.

That part number is Land Rovers part number, you will only find the manufacturers part/unit number which most probably will not be the same as land rovers listed number.

Nice tip

I think I will try fitting a chopped M8 bolt with a 3mm hole drilled in next weekend and see if the pump pitch stays constant rather than varying up and down. Also I think I'm going to cut an access hole in the tub so if or when it does fail it means I'm not going to have to drop the tank to replace it.

Cheers Zim, its a normal petrol defender in tank pump, maybe I need a decent brand external pump, which would be easier to change in the field and I could bypass if worst came to worst. The inline injection pump is very sensitive to getting a slug of air through it as it opperated about 10psi per 1000rpm and the drop in pressure either bogs the engine down or stalls if on idle which is what I don't want to happen at an off road site etc. as its a pig to bleed.