Ash.Witty

That's sounding more like it, a small restriction so it has a bit of load rather than running flat out all the time. I think the pipes from the pump and back to the tank are 8mm, bearing in mind its feeding a 5.9L diesel which only revs to 2500rpm vs the 5,500 of the old 4.2V8 should mean the pump is man enough to cope with the supply. What size restriction do you think would be suitable, 8 down to 2 or 3mm on the return line?

I like the sound of those magnum beads, I got a set of 37x12.5R16 maxxis tyres balanced at JCS4x4 wheels n tyres near Nottingham. The problem with big tyres is they need a lot of weights, we put 400g in one spot but I pulled them off because it looked rediculess and would no doubt fall off when off roading, plus if you're on 15" wheels you have to make sure if you're piling lead on the inner side that it doesn't contact the caliper.

Depends on what stage your engine is in eg. In vehicle or rebuild. I prefer the later crank driven pump but the earlier one works a treat anyway. Also needs a late serpentine crankshaft if you were thinking of doing it, as they have a longer nose to allow for the width of the gear between the pulley and timing gear.

The late Gemini blocks from 93/94 onwards or all the 3.9 and 4.2 serpentine engines can be cross bolted as they have the extra material and late main caps enabling it to be done like on the TVR 5.0 v8.

Last year I got my cummins powered 110 on the road with no problems and about 2000 miles on the clock. At the moment I have a low pressure petrol fuel pump supplying diesel to a swirl pot mounted on my bulkhead next to the heater. It's got four ports, lowest port supply to the engines lift pump, second injection pump return, third fuel supply from tank, top fuel return to tank. The low pressure pump has been working faultlessly to date but I have noticed the pitch varies when running and want to know if this is normal or its possibly on its way out. Is diesel thicker than petrol etc and potentially killing my pump? The pump is constantly supplying the swirl pot and then returning to the tank with no restrictions could this potentially cause a failure? Do carb v8's have a fuel return line and if not should I block the tank return line off? If I was to return the fuel system back to standard same as a Tdi how much diesel would I need to keep in the tank when off road to prevent air being drawn into the system and do Tdi's suffer from this? I'm just trying to work out whether to bin the electric pump or not and revert back to the Tdi style fuel system.

I have just read the write up above, that spicer box looks the same as the units fitted to the leyland roadrunner apart from yours being top loading and the road runners being front loading. If you can find a Spicer T5X it will be a straight swap looking at the pictures and comparing them to my gearbox, £250-300 and you have the .75:1 5th gear.

mine was box standard, ran it for over 15,000 before undertaking an engine conversion. I used a boost bleed valve to control the amount of boost and had a larger intercooler fitted.

The 300Tdi engines run at 1Bar of boost as standard, have you checked to see if the wastegate is free and not seized up? I ran my 300Tdi at 1.5Bar for a while with no ill effects.

As above, do filer and oil oneat a time, drain old oil the fill up with new and remove old filter and fit new one filled with oil. I used to do the oil in my v8 every 2000 miles as it got a good hammering, if its the old distributor driven oil pump you should be using 20/50w oil although i ran mine for many thousand miles on 10/40w, oil pressure increased by about 10psi when filled 20/50w as well.

I think the actuator is bolted to the back of the compressor housing, 2x 10mm headed bolts and a clip on the wastegate arm. STC3084 is the part number of a 300tdi actuator, I can't find a 200tdi part number but they're £60 brand new on eBay, The eBay ad says 200tdi & 300tdi so should be a straight swap. Measure the total length of the rod from the actuator housing so that when screwing the end on if its set to the same length it should give somewhere near standard boost. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-waste-gate-turbocharger-actuator-STC3084-/270790392429

A Dana spicer T5X has a .75:1 5th gear. Ratios very similar to the Land Rover R380. I have used this gearbox on my cummins converted 110. Its originally from the Leyland roadrunner 7.5 tonne and think the leyland t244 is a 4 tonne truck? I have just searched the web for a pic of the box and it looks identical to my Spicer T5X externally but with different ratios. Does your T244 have a remote transfer box? Any pics so I can compare with my gearbox?

remove the rubber pipe going to the wastegate on the turbo, then with attatch a pipe to an air blow gun and fit the pipe to the wastegate. regulate the air with the blow gun and watch to see if the wastegate opperates out and back in when the air is let off if it hisses its and doesn't move the diaphram will be leaking and will need replacing. if it works put everything back together and your problem lies elsewhere.

Do you have an air compressor? You could test the actuator by hooking up an air line to it, 1Bar should be more than enough to opperate the wastegate mechanism. If it moves something else If it doesn't it broken.

That's the turbocharger, the line which melted is to tell the injection pump the turbo is making boost and increases fuel accordingly. Now the rod which you say can be moved around by hand should be quite hard to work and should only move in/out of the actuator. This could be your problem, the actuator controls the speed of the turbo and which controls the boost pressure via the rod and wastegate, if the actuator has failed it will either stick closed or fall apart internally and allow the wastegate to open with the exhaust manifold pressure. I think if you can source a new or good used 200Tdi turbo actuator and fit it it could well sort the problem and return the power to normal.

There is no air flow meter on a 200tdi, any chance you could take a picture of what you're trying to describe. Turbocharger... FIP Boost enrichment module etc.

I was told by a garage to just lift the rocker shaft out and they will be ok which it was and still is, just follow the manual if you want to adjust them. Also don't forget to bleed the system before trying to start.

It'll be a hairline crack, look carefully and make sure your 100% sure it's ok before rebuilding or it could be costly in the long run. Could always bang some pictures on here if you spot anything.

Lewis is bang on, 2 drill bits to do the job the pilot and final size.

Definitely check the head for cracks then if there is diesel in the oil, chances are its the seals but there is a possibility of it being cracked. 15P engines had a few revisions made due to a few failures in the design on the older 10P engine.

The engine code is the start of the engine number, 10P early or 15P later. It's located on the turbo side under the exhaust behind the centrifugal oil filter housing. Why are you changing the seal? Diesel in oil, air in fuel...

I've done them recently on a mates td5, I had a small heel bar and lightly prised them out. I doubt you will need a puller, just keep the injector square when taking out. Also if you have a 10P code engine check for any signs of cracking in the injector bores.

Cool, that sounds good. I always do a dry fit jut to make sure the splines are correct etc. I also hydraulic the grease out of the cv, fill the cv cup full then it pushes it past the balls when the half shaft is fitted. Don't know whether it makes any difference but find I do it every time.

Add a little grease, get the half shaft started in the CV then use a flathead screwdriver to push the c clip back into its recess give a good knock with a soft hammer and it should go together no problem. Also does the half shaft fit without the c clip?

Well my plan was to use one of these but with a compression fitting on the inner side. Simply remove air line, lock nut and dowty washer then it wouldn't be too bad, I was thinking about using the RD20 on the front as the air feed is on the opposite side to the crown wheel and would be less chance of it getting caught. I'll have a good look tomorrow at alternatives.

I acquired late last year a pair of low mileage ARB lockers for my Salisbury axles, they are in good working order but I'm wondering if there is any advantage fitting either one in the front or rear axle. Now the front axle, I don't have enough clearance above the diff to have the fitting in the normal place but I plan on using a bulkhead compression fitting and having it exiting the diff cover. Anyone see a potential problem with this? The only reason I mention the above is that the sump has only 1/2" of clearance on the extended bump stops and I don't want the fitting to come into contact with it. Are there any mechanical/pneumatic advantages of either unit? Also after info on shimming the RD20 as I have an RD161 installation manual but not one for the earlier unit.