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Snagger

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Snagger last won the day on May 24

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About Snagger

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    http://nickslandrover.co.uk

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  1. You can see the details here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/new-lows/ It doesn’t affect low gears as in 1st and 2nd - it drops all gears in low range because it’s dropping low range itself. It means that in high range, all your gears (including overdrive) will be increased by around 17% by the diffs, but low range will have the same overall ratios as you have now. The 4.37 diffs would probably work well with the 2.25, and if you did the transfer box mod, you’ll end up with the low range still being lower than it is with the current gears and diffs.
  2. By all means try the breather mod, but I wouldn’t recommend reducing the oil level.
  3. If you’re already installing an overdrive, I think you’d be best off towait until you have that to see where you are. A 2.25 isn’t particularly powerful; it’ll pull the overdrive and standard transmission, but not a great deal more. I have a 109 with a Tdi using a fundamentally standard transmission and overdrive. I did try 3.54 diffs, and even with the overdrive disengaged, it was truly awful to drive except once (eventually) up to speed on the motorway. For a Tdi or V8, 4.1 diffs are a compromise that may work, giving a top gear ratio similar to a Tdi Defender - those engines pull the overdrive quite easily and run out of gears with 4.71 diffs, but I’m not sure a 2.25 would cope unless those power mods are significant. You can fit the low range and intermediate cluster from the SII suffix C transfer box which will drop low range by roughly the same amount that 4.1 diffs raise it. They and overdrive have no effect on speedo accuracy, but the diff ratio change will. I have done the low range swap and it’s pretty simple, though three hands are beneficial if you do it without removing the transfer box from the vehicle.
  4. Sounds to me like the main light switch on the steering column has melted its contacts into the plastic. Try rigging a bypass wire with the switch disconnected to access the loom terminals to check - if the lights work, then you just need a new switch. They fail quite often, especially if you have halogen bulbs or any extra lights running from the circuit. That why so many people fit a relay operated sub-loom for head lights.
  5. Do they fit correctly? I don’t know if the front and rear spring seats are exactly the same size, it I want to do the same on my RRC, which I think only has them in the rear.
  6. I only just noticed the auto-incorrect change of Hammerite to Hammerstein. 🙄 Sorry about that - you seem to know what I meant. 🙂
  7. Some products do work better than others, red oxide being pretty reliable. But given how thinly LR applied paint on Defenders, without primer or preparation of rough edges around bolt holes and edges that penetrate paint, most notably the highly visible and easily accessed rear cross member, it is clear that production cost was their only concern, not performance.
  8. I used what I think you have - Hammerstein Underbody Shield. It’s a half bitumen, half waxoil mixture, horrible to apply, but can’t chip or flake and is very wash and impact resistant. It claims to creep over any scratches, but I think that unlikely. But it’s cheap and effective over a good previous protective layer, especially galvanising. It goes on very well directly, with no prep other than a wash with mild detergent, and while it is initially tacky, it does eventually dry tack-free. It is a little prone to dirt staining, so I painted the front ends of the dumb irons and the cross member with expect primer and matt black Rustoleum, which is fairly tough and goes on extremely well. The Underbody Shield can be scrapped off and remnants cleaned away with a cloth and solvent (spirits, fuel, thin oils) very easily should you need to. I’m very content with the result and he level of protection over the galvanising.
  9. There are three versions of the door itself. The Series II/III version, which has only two hinges, a slightly different arrangement for the roller in the stay mechanism, and a different configuration that puts the spare wheel mount central and low down. Wipers were an aftermarket mod, and I don’t think heated glass was even an option (the Queen had a modified door on a SII with wipers inside and out to clear the fog from her dogs’ breathing in the back). All but the very latest had the simple mortise latch, only the late vehicles had antiburst locks. If I remember rightly, they got a different skin due to the relocation of the key barrel, while the older locks had the key barrel in the handle aperture, a change just like the driver’s door. The 90/110 version was used all the way until 2002, and was a revised version of the above with a rejigged frame to move the spare wheel up and right to allow the use of the tow hitch on the cross member, had the third hinge and provision for a wiper motor and heated screen, and had the tab added to activate courtesy lights. Some versions of this door had the bracket for the dovetail supporting wedge below the latch, like the Series doors, while others didn’t, and it doesn’t appear to be related to whether the spare wheel mount was installed or not. The final type is the 2002 version with single piece pressed frame, steel skin, rounded window in a rubber seal, Discovery type spare wheel mount and provision for a high level brake light. The glazing, glazing retainers, handle and lock system were interchangeable between the Series and pre 2002 type. I suspect the latch mechanism is still interchangeable on the post 2002 version, but the central locking arm would be missing. The hinges were also changed on the later version to non-reparable types; the vertical pins, their bronze phosphor balls and bottom springs and locknuts all being deleted. I doubt there would be any impediment to fitting the old type to the new door or vice versa, should you want to.
  10. Jim, you said you fitted a relay to the dip circuit, but did you also add one for main beam? If so, check the outputs of the trigger wires to the relay control pin, which I presume is the original wiring that used to run all the way to the lamps. If the relay is getting the signal to operate as you make the switch selections, then you know it’s not the switch gear or relays in the vehicle fuse box. Check the relays you added are getting power from the battery - it could be a bad connection or blown fuse(s). If the relays have power and are being triggered correctly, check their output terminal voltages as you operate the switches to verify the relays are working. Then check the voltages on the connections of the H4 bulb socket; if you have good voltages there, then an earthing fault between those connector blocks and the vehicle body are the likely cause. Be aware that checking voltage with a multimeter to find where the circuit breaks can be misleading. A bad contact, because of corrosion, dirt or a broken wire with just a few strands remaining, can allow the voltage to look normal because their is no current, but the current demanded by the appliance can outstrip that available in a faulty circuit and drop the voltage. I had that happen chasing a failed horn - the colts looked good everywhere when I had the horn disconnected from its wire, all the way to the end of that wire, and when I ran a tempest wire directly to the horn it sounded, but when I reconnected the original wire, it still didn’t work and the voltage dropped off - it transpired to be that grey corrosion of the contacts in the fuse box.
  11. You need to trace the black wires from the gauges and their bulbs through the unravelling black insulating tape and look for a female plug socket. If those wires aware all connected to the main loom inside that tape, then continue tracing to where they attach to the dash by a bolt or other terminal and make sure the metal is all clean. To be honest, the terminals and connections on the gauges look quite corroded to me and would benefit from a clean up with a wire brush, Emery cloth or whatever else, and reassembly with a little Vaseline to keep them clean. That doesn’t mean that the fault is t a gauge/sender mismatch - it could well be, but you can at least eliminate that corrosion and their poor contacts as a cause almost for free and prevent future problems. But I think something should be connected to that circled male earth plug in the photo.
  12. I wasn’t going to reuse the original breather plate, so I knocked it out with a hammer and drift with little care for damage. But I only removed it because I wanted the SI/MoD type top filler. It works fine as a breather, as long as it isn’t blocked up. The banjo bolt and plastic line were added to the original breather plate and then the replacement top fill cap (which also has breather holes just like the original plate) to prevent dirt and water ingress. Unless you are replacing the breather with the filler cap and already have the cap, thick o-ring and retaining spring (which is attached to a brass plug that replaces the plain plug covering the 1st/2nd detent spring), then leave the cap in place and just make sure it’s not clogged. You may need to remove the top cover to do this, but you’d already be doing so to replace the selector seals anyway. Wash the breather plate through with some solvent or diesel, using tooth picks or thin skewers to break up any compacted or congealed mud and dust that has collected. You can also check the transfer box breather, which is at the top of the square tower at the back of the main gear box ( there is a slot in the base of that tower that runs down the mating face of the casing to the hole for the main shaft, just behind the rear seal of the gear box and in front of the transfer box input gear. Yule some stiff wire to rod the slot clear of any muck to make sure the transfer box can breathe. Unfortunately, doing this and replacing the selector seals will still result up in occasional drips from the box - it’ll still sweat through the selectors, whichever type of seal you use (the original rubber type seem better than the ring and white plastic “key ring” affair). But it won’t be enough to affect oil levels within the box, just enough to be annoying and mark your parking spot. If you are losing large amounts of oil from the gear box, it should be relatively easy to spot the leak. You could have abs deals on any of the selector mechanism, which would show up if you clean the box with a steam wash and then drive a bit. If it’s from the seal on the input pinion, you should be losing oil through the flywheel housing drain hole. It may look black from clutch disc particle contamination, but you’d be able to smell the sulphur of the EP90. The most common cause, though, is the rear bearing carrier not having been sealed in the casing by lazy BL staff on the assembly line - the main shaft rear bearing sits in an annular sleeve which in turn sits in the hole in the rear of the gear box case. It is supposed to have had a seating compound, a little like thread lock, applied to the outside circumference before being inserted into the case, but almost none did, and that is how the oil gets from the gear box into the transfer box. The test for that is to simply check the transfer box oil level by removing its filler plug (rear face, next to the speedo housing and hand brake). If it’s over filled, then the gear box has thrown its oil into there. The fix, unfortunately, is a full rebuild of the gear box, adding the seating compound. That doesn’t have to be expensive, if everything else is in good order - you can reuse the old bearings, gears and shafts if they’re not damaged, and even the seals if they’re ok, but you’d need a gasket set, the bearing seating compound and I’d urge you to replace the three leaf springs on the 3rd/4th synchro while you’re in there. A gasket and seal kit will include all the seals for the main shaft, the selectors and detents, so is a simple purchase.
  13. Take measurements of the chassis bushes and spring bushes - they’re different lengths. Then take measurements of the new bush tubes and see if they are the same as the originals. You should be able to work it out that way, but my bet is that they’re for the chassis bushes. If the original chassis bush inner tubes sick out far from the rubber, then that’s almost certainly it.
  14. With all the fiddling inside the dash, I’d say your most likely cause is the earth from the gauges is faulty, so the cases are building up a charge and causing over indication. It’s a common enough problem when the earth is disconnected or gets corroded.
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