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Snagger

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Snagger last won the day on March 9

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About Snagger

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    http://nickslandrover.co.uk

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  • Location
    Dubai

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    Aviation, militaria, sub aqua, sci-fi

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  1. Did you take a really close look at the tooth adjacent to the one you dressed? Looks suspicious to me.
  2. And white is for ignition live circuits (key on “II” or “run”), A brand new switch isn’t necessarily a good switch, especially given the brand.
  3. Are you getting 12v at the live feed contact on the column switch with the ign on? If not, you have a break between there and the fuse box. If you do have 12v, try jumping the contacts with a wire to the output contacts or even unplugging the column switch and shorting the indicator switch feed to the output sockets. If they work, it’ll confirm the likelihood that the Britpart switch or its wiring is faulty.
  4. Is the whirring loud or faint? If loud, then it would appear the starter motor is spinning but not engaging the flywheel ring gear. It could be a faulty starter or the ring gear, stripped teeth being the most likely cause. I don’t think the starter has a Bendix, so not likely to be a sticking throw, but I stand to be corrected.
  5. Wipac make full bowl and half bowl versions in plastic. They’re ok, but one of mine has a stripped thread on the adjuster hole. I might do Sigi’s mod, or I might just superglue some strips of plastic in there and apply more grease to the steel adjuster screw threads. I’ll probably do the latter.
  6. I was going to suggest a jack between the rails. You need to spread her slightly. 😉
  7. Thanks for the added summary. This thread and the similar mods by Hazza and GeoJake convinced me to the same at some point. I want to do the same as you with the lock barrels too. I wish I had seen this thread before as I had been looking at all manner of kits for barrels with conflicting information over the match with the steering lock on earlier cars! My plan is to do as you did - post 2002 steering lock and three barrels, for which I need the rear door latch and later front door handles, all done in a kit by SP. Jake’s thread brought up the integrated fob/key from Right-Click, and the thread about puddle lights fermented another idea of going for their three button keys instead of two button and using the “boot opening” button for the puddle lights. You guys can be very inspiring.
  8. Amazing some of the “treasures” that are being throw out. You have some great finds, there.
  9. I missed that. Must be some more local gear specialists that can do the same process. If not, freight is a thing…
  10. Well, if you decide to get rid, I’d take the 200’s head as a spare for the very reason you mention perhaps the pumps and injectors too. I will be returning to the UK in August, so some time after that would be ideal, if it just turns into an anchor for you.
  11. That does mostly look ok, but the lay shaft should not be run in that condition. Have a word with Nige (hybrid from hell) - he might be able to make it serviceable with some treatment in his polishing machine. I think it’ll howl, whatever you do with it. A replacement would be best, if you can find one. I suspect a ball bearing escaped a race and did all that damage.
  12. For a lot of cases, I agree they’re unnecessary. I also entirely agree that rear mounted would be far more useful for self-recovery, but mounting is more difficult unless you are a skilled and equipped with fabrication equipment. How many retail kits have you seen for a rear mount for a Series or Defender?
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