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Snagger last won the day on August 9

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About Snagger

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    Aviation, militaria, sub aqua, sci-fi

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  1. Water in Diesel , Just an idle thought.

    Diesel gets into tanks by condensation and leaks. Contamination from one tank to another can also be an issue. Below a small amount, it has little effect, but significant amounts cause corrosion and fungal growth. LR fitted sedimenter bowls between the tank and filter on most diesel models to counter the effects of poor quality fuel and storage, especially in third world nations, where repairs to leaking tanks may never happen. Petrol vehicles tend to have transparent fuel filters which will show water contamination, especially 4-cylinder 2.25 and 2.5 engines from Series and 90/110 - they have small glass sedimenter bowls on the lift pump.
  2. I would suggest you remove and inspect all the valve push rods to make sure you haven't bent any, and check their seats in the cam follower slides for the same reason - the reason that the crank shaft wouldn't rotate it that the pistons were pushing hard against the open valves as the timing was out.
  3. Seals always work that way - the idea is that by having the fluid inside the hollow side of the seal, and increase in pressure will force the lip tighter onto the shaft. Having the seal the other way allows easy fluid migration as it will push the lip off the shaft. It's the same principle as a mitral valve (like in your heart).
  4. 2.5TD leaking lots of oil

    Pound to a penny you have cracked pistons and a cracked head - 19J are notorious for it.
  5. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    The problem with that is that the grease is centrifugally thrown to the circumference of the hub. The same happens with oil, but it will run back to the splines when parked. So, greasing is good, but removing or wrecking the seals is better.
  6. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    Those splines look a little worn, but not in any immediate trouble. I'd say they have another few years of typical driving left. They will be increasing backlash and clunking of the transmission, but not doing any harm. Gen Parts replacements aren't very expensive (pattern parts will likely be made of very poor materials and will last shorter than those old ones have left on them), so it comes down to how fussy you are. For clarification, the seal you need to remove is inside the stub axle or the end of the main axle case, not the hub seal next to the wheel bearing. You will be able to see it with the shaft removed. Tearing the seal with a long knife will suffice if you don't want to fully remove it - the hub doesn't need to be awash with oil to improve spline life, just splashed. The only issue that this mod may cause is the plastic cap at the centre of the flange leaking or even popping off, which would allow slow oil loss. A smear of RTV sealant on the mating faces of the cap and flange will prevent that, but the surfaces do need to be clean for it to work.
  7. Main shaft nut retaining lock plate

    The trouble is that the locking tabs rarely align with the slots when tightened to the correct 100'Lb, so you need to adjust the nut a little in one direction or the other, affecting that torque. If it is missing from the LR manuals, that may be why.
  8. Bloody SIII - swivel play?

    It sounds like classic swivel pin, bush or bearing wear. I replaced the whole lot on my 109's axles years ago. Here's a link to the blog entry and photos: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/front-swivel-replacement/ It seems a Haynes manual would be useful to you, or better still a LR Workshop Manual. The Haynes book is mostly reprint of the LR manual and a lot cheaper. It does have a few bits missing, but is good for most work. You can buy either online, and my blog has a bookshop facility to them (if you fancy adding about a Cent to my commission ).
  9. S111 gearbox

    The flap that sits over the end of the reverse selector shaft should have two springs, not one. It has an adjustment screw that allows the flap to be adjusted closer or further from horizontal. The closer to horizontal it is set, the greater the resistance to the gear stick moving to the left. If you unwind the screw too far, then the stick won't be able to lift the flap and reverse will be blocked entirely (this can happen from vibration unwinding the screw if the locknut isn't tight enough.
  10. Steering wheel vibrating

    The easiest and cheapest thing is wheel balancing. Next, check the condition of all the rod ends and the wheel bearings. If that isn't the cause, check the swivel bearing preloads, and finally look at the suspension bushes and dampers. Big, knobbly tyres and suspension lifts make the problem worse, but shouldn't be a direct cause.
  11. Driver member upgrade to heavy-duty?

    I prefer the standard drive flanges unless you have also uprated the shafts, diff and transmission - the flanges are soft and will often strip their splines before you break anything more expensive, acting as a mechanical fuse. They last long if you remove or wreck the internal seal in the stub axle (300Tdi and later).
  12. Stolen 90

    I think the Americans have the right idea in how seriously car theft is treated, it is after all the second most expensive item most of us will ever own, after a home.
  13. Need a Product name for my newest product !

    The "Crown King"?
  14. Defender 200tdi - Clutch Low Biting Point

    As Mo says, the reinforced fork should be ok. I had a low bite point and soft pedal until I elevated the front end before bleeding. It doesn't seem to affect most people, but if you have eliminated the cylinders and fork but still get trouble, it's worth a try.
  15. Mystery bracket on chassis

    It's about the right place. Can't remember if mine was just on the inboard face or was around the lower side like that. If that chassis has been used with a different transmission, as the bell housing cross member suggests, then it's a likely explanation that the bracket was removed and a non-standard lever used, such as a Discovery lever and cable.