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Snagger

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Snagger last won the day on October 11

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About Snagger

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    Too Much Spare Time

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    http://nickslandrover.co.uk

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    Dubai

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    Aviation, militaria, sub aqua, sci-fi

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  1. They’re about as discreet as you could hope for. Very neatly done.
  2. How likely do you think it is that the brake cone you removed was the source of the trouble?
  3. I don’t think that’s normal from a diff, it stand to be corrected. I’m used to seeing grey oil from diffs, but not flecks. If it’s not noisy, I still suspect bearings before gears, but you being a 90 owner, and my short experience with a late 90, I’d also be highly suspicious of the cross-pin and the carrier hole in which it sits. The hole had elongated enough on my wife’s 90 to keep shearing the roll pin securing the cross-pin, so the cross pin slid out and was only retained by the ring gear and hit the flat of the pinion head each full rotation. You may have some pin or carrier wear, though if you have the cross pin with circling, at least they don’t tend slide free.
  4. I hope you finally get a good result for all the effort and expense you’ve gone to.
  5. The problems that I have read about of the late 110 axles on a few forums concern the pinion moving away from the ring gear beaches the bearings are too close to keep it straight under load. It doesn’t matter whether the ring or the pinion is the one moving out of mesh - either way, you’ll strip the teeth off. Salisburys don’t do that, and don’t seem to need the ring gear pegging either.
  6. Does it? As far as I know, peddling only solves ring gear and carrier movement, preventing the ring gear from being pushed away from the pinion. I can’t see how it stops pinion axis movement at all. That’s where a long, heavy pinion with large and widely space bearings comes in.
  7. The manufacturing tolerance variances with Salisbury axles are almost exclusively in the casing, not the pinion or centre, but in reality they’re all pretty close. You can swap pinions and centres, even changing gear ratios (remember that 4.71:ratio units have the crown flange in a different position to 4.1 and higher geared units to allow for their smaller pinion head diameter) using the same pinion bearings shims in that axle tube and retaining the existing shims on the centre. I was quite wary of that advice and expected to go through the whole setup process until I tried it myself, installing my 109’s 4.71 pinion and centre into the 110 axle I transferred to the vehicle. I even reused the 110’s original crush tube and everything came out spot on - the mesh amount and contact pattern were perfect.
  8. A new crush tube only starts to crush at 250’lbs and nets exponentially more torque to crush further. I set mine to 150’lbs when replacing seals as that is easily enough to deal with any elasticity in the tube without risking compressing it further than before.
  9. Yep, that’s basically it, though the spreader is just advantageous rather than mandatory. The difficult bit is that the shims sit between bearing inner races and diff centre, so changing them requires removal of the bearings. The correct set up procedure, starting with a stripped case, is to put the centre with bearings but no shims into the housing and then check for end float to find the total shim pack thickness, then remove the centre, set up the pinion in a way not that different to Rover diffs, then refit the centre (still without shims) and measure the backlash rotation angle. There is a relationship between that angle and the thickness of shims to be added to one side of the carrier, so you add that thickness on that side and the remainder of the total endfloat to the other side, refit the bearings and reassemble, and the final checks should then be within tolerance. It’s not as hit and miss as you’d imagine.
  10. It’s a chunky pinion, but more than that, the bearings are quite well spaced to give it axial stability, as opposed to the P38/Wolf diff which has a very short pinion with closer bearings. I couldn’t venture an opinion on how useful pegging a Salisbury is, but I’ve never heard of it being done, so it probably is never needed. Nige would know more, but I don’t think he works on Salisburys, presumably because of the inconvenience of how they fit in the axle (same assumption for Ashcroft not touching them). But their gears are substantially bigger than the Rover types, so should be a fair bit stronger too. The downside of the Salisbury (apart from the method of shimming the side bearings and setting backlash) is the size of the casing and its ground clearance compared to the smaller Rover units. I have read comments and seen a handful of photos of axle cases broken at where the tubes enter the cast diff housing, but how overloaded or abused they were wasn’t mentioned and I’ve read many-fold more comments or questions about bent Rover axles, including the late 110s (which is why the MoD had them so heavily reinforced for the TUMs).
  11. About £60 for a full Timken set last time I checked with my local uk supplier. But they’re easy to source, just not through LR franchises as they tend to support vehicles of 10 years and younger, the minimum by law. Thanks for that, Tata.
  12. That is right. That’s the benefit of epicyclic gears with clutch pack selectors - everything is already meshed, so you can have instant changes without removing torque. It’s how automatic transmissions work, and this is essentially a two speed auto.
  13. Eaton Trutrac and Quaife. Quaife is considerably better quality and has six worm gears each side (like the Ashcroft) rather than the 3 of the Eaton, who should be a lot more effective as well as more robust, but it’s 50% dearer too.
  14. You can replace the axle and prop with the 2002+ type and fit the Ashcroft, but that axle has more pinion issues than the Salisbury because the pinion is so short that the bearings have a hard time keeping it straight, or you can go with a Trutrac or Quaife. The cheapest I have seen the Trutrac is at the LR Centre at Speke, Liverpool. The Quaife is better, but almost twice the price (around £1k inclusive, plus bearings and any labour). I have a Salisbury axle on my 109 and will fit one of these (myself), hopefully the Quaife if possible at the time.
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