Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us


Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Snagger last won the day on February 17

Snagger had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

240 Excellent

1 Follower

About Snagger

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Aviation, militaria, sub aqua, sci-fi

Recent Profile Visitors

2,104 profile views
  1. Please some give me some good news

    The SIII slaves didn't have return springs either. My slave came off a Discovery Tdi. I wonder if it was only Discoverys that had it, then, and not Defenders? It'd just stop a bit of release bearing chatter and reduce the pedal dead band a touch, but isn't essential. Could be penny pinching by TRW in modern times, too.
  2. Gearbox help and advice needed

    If you do rebuild the existing unit, then make sure you use bearing seating compound (a bit like thread lock) between the main shaft rear bearing carrier and the main casing; that's where the leak into the transfer box is, and why the gear box needs such frequent refilling.
  3. Gearbox help and advice needed

    LT77 will be a fair bit quieter, a lot stronger and will weep less than a perfectly rebuilt Series unit. But you can't add an overdrive and 5th gear is a fair bit lower than Series 4th with overdrive. You could add the LT230, but would need to change the diffs to get it all to drive at reasonable speeds and mpg, and would need the speedo recalibrating. Theoretically, you'd be wanting a CV joint upgrade to the front axle if running full time 4wd, too - the kick back at the steering wheel in 4wd on a solid surface is significant at high steering angles, but I haven't tried it with an open centre diff like the LT230 has. Not difficult, but more cost and hassle to consider before deciding. So, removing the existing transmission is an opportunity to fit the more modern transmission, but not an actual reason to do so. I think Steve is probably correct in diagnosing the 3rd/4th synchro leaf spring failure being the cause - they are a common failure point and very cheap to replace (do all three). I consider them an essential replacement any time the gear box is opened up, as they're cheap, cause such trouble, are so prone to failure when old, and are such a pig to do (needing the box to be removed and opened). What else you find when the box is open depends on how well it was looked after, but I'd recommend replacing all the bearings (ideally Timken, but SKF or NSK will do) and Angus or Corteco seals. Do not use Britpart components unless you want to do it all again in a month. Dunsfold Land Rover will stock the springs and other parts, but bearings may be cheapest from you local bearings specialist. If you take the old ones with you, they'll read the numbers from the races to get the right ones.
  4. Accessories

    It's not a fan, just the thermostatic switch and a housing for it to be fitted to the radiator bottom hose. Great, simple piece of kit. The switch has two different temperature triggers with separate output terminals, so you can run a main fan and a second booster, warning system, or any other higher tripped circuit you wish. I also installed manual override switches in the dash as I'm paranoid. For the fan itself, there are plenty of 14" units available mail order, but a big one from a scrapped car would be cheaper and one from a big engined car may have more heft.
  5. Radiator outlet to expansion bottle broken

    Remember to check the pipe is clear afterwards. Should be easy to gently drill out if needed.
  6. Radiator outlet to expansion bottle broken

    You need a blow torch and plumber's solder and flux, not electrical soldering equipment. Hopefully stating the obvious...
  7. Please some give me some good news

    Have you removed the pistons from each slave to make a comparison? You may find something very simple. Failing that, you could swap the pistons, or at least the seals, if there is a cylinder fault.
  8. Accessories

    For the fan, I'd strongly recommend the X-Eng X_Fan kit. The instructions say the switch will handle the fan's current, but for longevity I think using a relay would be better. A fuse on the relay main feed would be required. As Ralph says, make sure you have a switch and warning light on the dash for the rear lamp; not only does it mean you can leave the switch on the lamp itself on so that you can control it from the dash for reversing in poor illumination, but it prevents accidental battery drain or kids fiddling with it.
  9. Goodbye or Live on?

    The hot rear brakes issue must be an adjustment problem; there is no reason that fitting discs on the front should affect the rear brakes. You do have the rear brakes plumbed into the end of the master nearest the bumper, furthest from the bulkhead, don't you? The 130 turning circle may be better, but parking in town is going to be worse trying to find a space long enough. Leaky doors can be fixed with new seals, adjustment and making sure the door tops lean inwards correctly (ie. not cheap pattern part door tops). There is a lot you can do to a SIII to make it as easy to drive or as comfortable as a Defender. It all depends on budget and what you like. But have a very close look at the 130 before deciding as it's likely to need a fair amount spending on it too.
  10. Radiator outlet to expansion bottle broken

    It must be flush inside to allow the rad cap to be fitted - the pressure diaphragm won't fit past an intrusion. That pipe is not under positive pressure; any expanding coolant that gets past the cap diaphragm will be able to freely pass to the expansion bottle. As the engine cools, the coolant will be syphoned back into the rad under negative pressure. I had the same problem once and made a "temporary" repair with JB Weld that outlasted the rad core.
  11. Series 3 Brake Lights

    It's not uncommon for non-specialist mechanics to log in to ask a question for a problem they can't fix and disappear without a reply when they get the answer they need. It could also just be that the poster is on a trip and doesn't have regular internet access.
  12. Series radiator heater matrix replacement

    The other option is to make two steel strips, each with two captive bolts that you can push up from the inside of the foot well and hold in place with tape so you can get the washers and nuts on under the wing - that means you don't have problems replacing the fixings next time if they rust up and shear. Otherwise, fitting captive bolts to the matrix housing would allow you to put it in place and have it stay in position by itself while you fit the nuts inside.
  13. ibex 300 build

    You can sort the discs with a few applications of brakes.
  14. 300TDI Overheating problems......

    Check that the small hoses from rad top and thermostat housing to expansion tank are fully clear, especially the Y-piece that joins them together. They tend to sludge up and cause vapour locks, and I have a suspicion that could be the problem. A piece of stiff wire will suffice for rodding the Y-piece, but be careful as it's likely to be brittle.
  15. Series radiator heater matrix replacement

    What is the condition of the corrugated air feed hose? They're usually full of splits.