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Snagger last won the day on December 19 2019

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About Snagger

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    Aviation, militaria, sub aqua, sci-fi

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  1. Yes, I should have been more specific about not getting the toffee Britpart wheels...
  2. Got a bit more expensive in the last 15 years, but worth it if the other gauges are past their best: https://www.holden.co.uk/c/hardware/gauges/other_gauges
  3. They certainly do. Worth using plastic washers where possible, and lots of grease where not.
  4. Fair enough. I was happy to use stainless fixings on my door hinges because they’re under light load, not heavily torqued up or carrying much weight. The spire nuts were standard and coated heavily in copper grease, so won’t have problems, but I think applications like this are good for decent quality stainless nuts with greased threads.
  5. The best advice is don’t. In fact, on those roads, just use the LR steel HD (wolf) rims and 235/85 ATs or MTs with a reputation for being resistant to stone abrasions. You don’t want anything that is going to increase the stresses on the mechanical parts - stub axles, wheel bearings and steering components all get increased stress from changing offsets or fitting bigger wheels or tyres, and corrugations hammer those parts enough as it is!
  6. Ah, that’s much better than the flimsy original al cage nuts, especially if they’re stainless nuts.
  7. 300Tdi? Air locks caused by scale and much blocking the small diameter expansion hoses connecting thermostat housing, rad top and expansion tank. The Y shaped connection is particularly prone to clogging, and needs cleaning out. Be careful taking it apart - it gets brittle with age. There are no valves or pressure springs to worry about - they should all be plain open bores.
  8. I have used regular Hammerite Smooth on engines and callipers, brush-on and aerosol, with no peeling or discolouration.
  9. I doubt that oil is from the turbo or breather - there is just too much of it, and oil through the induction system would be burned off as the engine won’t be breathing and the turbo won’t be getting oil pressure when the engine is shut down. I think it’s either leaking past the valve stemns or dripped as you removed the head. That doesn’t exclude turbo or breathing problems from creating your smoke, but I just don’t see that much oil accumulating in the cylinders as the engine does a few turns without fuel on shutdown.
  10. It doesn’t make LR related things easy, that’s for sure!
  11. How are you supposed to adjust the door hinges if they weld in captive nuts? They should have large plain holes for cage nuts, like the original bulkheads.
  12. Comparing my original springs, also rusty, to how my Heystee HD (3 leaf front and 4 leaf rear) behave is chalk and cheese. I did have Procomp ES9000s as part of the kit, but later replaced them with 3000s which gave a far better ride, but even with the 9000s, it was better than the old springs. Like the others, I think your problem is the dampers.
  13. If you want oil temperature, and don’t mind spending a bit extra, then Holden also do the 3-in1 LR gauge with fuel in the bottom arc (where the charge light normally is) water temp on ones side and oil temp on the other. No need for a voltage regulator on that unit, either, as it’s incorporated in each individual gauge. I got one for about £80 in 2005. Smart way of getting the extra reading without mounting more round dials on the dash. But if you’re already going to fit a pressure gauge and don’t need space for other gauges, then a pressed panel to mount two small Smiths oil gauges would be a good solution, and I think you can get classic Smiths combined oil temp and pressure gauges. Not sure which turns out dearer, but they have it all on their site, and using the Smiths Classic gauges with black face and black bezel matches very smartly with the original Jaeger instruments.
  14. Use a tee in the filter housing port for the low pressure light switch, so you can use that switch and a pressure sender or capillary line. Holden Vintage and Classic sellthem and the instruments.
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