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Snagger

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. Oddly enough, Ashcroft's destructive testing a few years ago found that Britpart CVs are especially good, only bettered by Ashcrofts own stuff, and beat the gen parts stuff by a country mile. I have had a couple, and they lasted pretty well. They were only £30odd a few years ago, so are cheaper than all the rest too. They may be worth a punt at that price.
  2. No, me either. You've done a thorough job on that one!
  3. It could be worth throwing a can of fuel system cleaner in a half full tank and running around until near empty to clean the system through, especially the injectors. I'd do it after replacing the filters.
  4. A couple of years ago I had smoke coming from under the bonnet. I pulled over, lifted the bonnet (carefully, mindful of flashover) and found the fuel solenoid was melting. I yanked the lead off the solenoid (spade terminal only) and then quickly switched the ignition off. Thankfully, I had no other damage. I can't imagine it's a common fault to have the solenoid burn out internally like that.
  5. Could you not just put a couple of self tappers in through the cats to keep them still in their houses? Two Tek-screws into each block with a little exhaust paste under the screw heads should work.
  6. Hi all, I have just collected a second hand BW unit (RRC type) from my brother's house, several months after a forum member kindly delivered it there for me. I have two questions about it, if anyone can please answer them. 1: There is a threaded hole close to the high/low ratio selector arm. I think this is for the remote breather banjo bolt (no breather hose or fittings present), but would appreciate confirmation whether this is right or wrong, and; 2: There is a small amount of play between the input and output shafts, as you'd expect on a second hand unit, but I don't know how much is normal. Holding the input shaft still, there is up to 2mm rotational movement on the output flanges, or if you hold the output shaft still, about 1mm movement on the input shaft. It seems small to me, but is that indicative of allowable or excessive chain stretch? Thanks.
  7. There may be some confusion over the terms stub axle and half shaft. The stub axle is the hollow tube that bolts directly onto the end of the axle tube and has the wheel bearings sit around its outside. The half shaft is the solid bar that runs through the stub axle from hub to diff. If the wide section of the stub axle exterior surface is scored, then any new seal will be ripped up very quickly. Oil leaks will be over the inboard side of the hub and brake disc, and would likely heavily contaminate the brakes on that corner. A scored half shaft will allow oil up to the drive flange and a loose hub cone would allow oil to sweat or weep over the entire hub and the majority of the wheel, but probably won't contaminate the brakes and is just a little messy. It's only the inside of the stub axle that can be scored (as long as it's not deep enough to cause structural weakening). Scoring of the half shaft's "seal land" (raised and machined surface that the stub axle interior seal runs on) doesn't matter, as long as you use the RTV on that cap as mentioned. Scoring of the stub axle requires repair (by sleeving) or replacement.
  8. Brtipart seals are a misnomer - they don't hold anything in or out.
  9. 300Tdi will be the later type with the small rubber cap and the thinner half shafts with raised smooth section for the inner seal. Those seals lead to early spline wear, like I said. Where is the oil showing up? If it is coming through the alloy wheel centre cap ontot he face of the wheel, or is on the outside face of steel wheels and over the drive flange, then it's coming from from the rubber cap. All you need to do is remove the cap, clean it and the lip of the drive flange carefully and stick it back on with RTV. You only need replacement parts if its the big seal on the back of the hub leaking where it runs on the stub axle from having pitting or a wear groove in the steel, which is what I suspect you were referring to in the first post.
  10. You could use a tyre pump with a football or airbed valve adaptor taped into the fuel tank feed connection, with the tank return line clamped or blocked off and the "stop handle" pushed in so the fuel system is in the "run" valve position. I wouldn't want to pressurise the system much, though, as most of it is meant to be at atmospheric pressure, only the pumps, lift pump to injection pump and steel injector pipes being pressurised. If you overload the rest of the system, you could blow low pressure unions apart.
  11. Is it the external stub axle - hub seal leaking, so oil getting onto the inside face of the brake disk, or is it the internal stub axle - half shaft seal of a later axle leaking, so oil getting to the drive flange splines and weeping out of the rubber cap? If it's the former, which it sounds like, you'll be ok replacing the oil and running a short while, though you really should replace it twice with a short period of running about between to make sure you get all the water out. Replacing the stub axle is not urgent unless your brakes are getting bad contamination. If it's the latter, then don't replace the broken internal seal - take it out completely, reassemble the axle and bond the rubber cap on with RTV sealant after cleaning well, and do the same to the other side. Those internal seals keep the diff oil away from the wheel bearings (or swivels on the front), which serves no benefit but does starve the drive flange splines of lubrication so they rust and wear twice as fast as the older design axles.
  12. The usual cause for complete headlight failure is exactly what Mav and AMB report, and that is due to the switch oveheating from excess load. The head lights really need to be run from a relay with uprated wiring too, and doing this not only protects the switches but also allows the bulbs to run brighter as the feeds are not giving significant resistance.
  13. It sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem and the system is taking a while to purge the air out. Check the pipes for splits and chafing, rubber hoses for perishing and all joints for security. Tiny leaks won't let fuel out, so no tell-tale wet spot, but will let air in, which breaks the vacuum when the engine is off, allowing fuel to drain back down to the tank.
  14. Heystee kit is expensive, but the quality is very good, and after all, brakes are something you don't want to chance.
  15. Maverick's caution is worthy. Thin bolts need thin allen keys or ezy-outs to do this and they are very brittle. They are very hard steel, and make drilling the bolt remnant out extremely difficult. I use a punch or chisel to start the bolt out, driving at a tangent.
  16. I think the calipers are made by Zeus. The discs were Chrysler or Chevy, not sure which, but the former I think, machined to fit the hub and drilled for the wheel studs. I don't know if that has changed in the last few years. Gremlin had a better solution with custom brackets to mount LR calipers and using standard LR hubs and discs. He may be able to give you advice.
  17. Because Defenders run on 235/85s while Discoverys run on 235/70s. That diameter difference makes all the difference (about 8% if I remember old calculations correctly, much less than the 13% step up in gearing from 1.4:1 to 1.2:1). So, a standard Discovery has a slightly taller final ratio than a standard Defender, but not enough to degrade performance. A 1.3:1 transfer ratio would be good for most Defenders, but I don't think there is one.
  18. This is part of the reason I pleaded with you to keep the Defender version in. You should be able to use a 300Tdi Defender filter canister if you can get some tubing to join it to the snorkel and the turbo. K&N do filters that fit that housing (I have one that fits the 12/19J filter housing in mine, a type of housing that could be adapted to mount in the same way as the 300Tdi type).
  19. I'm pretty sure the height of the foot well opening (floor to dash ) is identical between the SIII and the Defender (I fitted the Defender kick panel trim from Wright Off Road, and that measurement was the same - it's the toe end that differs), and thus the SII as well. The length between the front of the seat base and the door pillar is also the same, allowing for manufacturing tolerances (otherwise Defender seats wouldn't fit the existing bolt holes on a SIII seat base, which I also did). I'm not sure about the width of the foot well, but I'd be very surprised if that differs. I think the only thing that may get in the way is the hand brake lever or red High/Low lever, but I'm pretty sure the Series hand brake lever is closer tot he centreline than the Defender type (presses less against your leg). I reckon it'll fit, but I admit I'd want to have the two vehicles side by side for measurements or a pedal lock to trial fit first, just to make sure.
  20. Get the head redone by Turner Engineering - they reckon on an 11% performance increase, if I remember correctly. As for the intercooler, size is only part of the equation; it has to allow free flow internally and externally to be effective.
  21. I am still confident that the claims of Defender's demise being due to legislation are lies. The same engine is used on the Transit with no problem, and the Jeep Wrangler has a similar bumper and roof integrity with no sales ban anywhere in Europe. LR killed it because the profit margins weren't big enough and because it didn't have enough bling to fit in with the rest of the footballer/drug dealer stable they produce.
  22. I have oil pressure, oil temperature and voltmeter. None of them are really of benefit and only serve to cause worry when you see a deviation from standard readings, usually a short term reaction to some external factor. Fair enough if you're using them to fill dash holes, but only the clock will be any use.
  23. Same with the Discovery 200 tube and stick, if I remember correctly. The snag is that the tubes route differently to clear the differing manifolds, and the Discovery 200 tube is secured tot he induction manifold, so you'd have to make up a bracket. The top of the 300 tube bolts to the front of the block, so if that bolt hole is the same on the 200 block, then it may work, but since the sump and oil pump are very different on the 300, and the 300 doesn't have the ladder frame between block and sump, I'd be wary of using the 300 stick and tube on the 200 block.
  24. Keep the 88o stat - it's much better for the engine and for the cab heater! Tdis should run a little warmer than the old 2.25 engines, so as long as you have matched sender and gauge, the needle should stabilise with its left edge on the top left corner of the "N", about two thirds of the way up the normal range sector. I can't see a boost gauge being very useful except in the initial fitting, since you suspect the waste gate has been tampered with.
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