Snagger

I'd say that is the rear axle centreline, and always will be - it is the only point that always points at the centre of the turning circle, and does so on all radius, not just minimum, unless you have rear axle steering. I suspect it is only written in that confusing way for double rear axled vehicles, as that transverse line will be roughly half way between them (probably slightly closer to the axle bearing most weight, or if one axle has castoring or steer-assist, then closer tot the axle with fixed wheels, so there will be exceptions to it being through an axle). So, the overhang would seem to start from above the rear axle or at the back of an 8-person cabin, whichever is the furthest aft, as far as I can understand.

The facelift parts get stolen a lot, though less than when the cars were still young. I doubt it's worth the trouble. What is certainly worth the money is getting the chassis and body shell treated. It'll cost £5-600 to be done well, which means steam cleaning inside and out and then cavity wax inside the chassis sections, door frames and the body shell voids and tubes, plus a more resilient coating of the chassis, axles and bodyshell underside (floors, wheel arches, etc). I recommend Rustmaster near Hatfield - he did a great job on my wife's 90.

Another vote for the LR bottle jack. They were also included by LR on TDCI Defenders, not just RRC, Discovery and P38, though my wife's was black rather than the deep red most were. You see plenty of them for sale at the big shows for £10-15. Pick a good one (check the pistons for scoring or damage by extending it fully) and remember the two-piece handle! Trolley jacks are great on the driveway, but awful things to lug around in the car. I just use the LR type - they are surprisingly strong and with their double piston, lift a long way (Halfords and other general types only have a single piston, so only have half the lift height; don't get one of those)

Just one or two, though, Fridge... Tackling a rebuild without manuals is crazy. The Haynes manual is for the most part a reproduction of the LR Workshop Manual, with added photos. The Parts Catalogue is worth having, too.

... well, it would, because there is not enough space for the standard rear tank and they cut off the back end along the forward edge of the original filler aperture, and those Series front filler assemblies are easier to install than Defender types as they need no spot welding or folding of the cut edges. With a little effort, they could have used the original filler, and it would have looked far neater.

He'd want to keep the other engine complete, so you can swap your undrilled elbow with his switch equipped one. The rubber seal around the thermostat should keep your engine water tight when you do the swap; there is no gasket in the joint. You'll just need to top up the coolant on completion. You can use the aircon without those switches, if you keep an aye on the engine temperature - a manual switch to activate the booster fans and switching the aircon off if they can't cope will do the same thing. It's just nice to have t taken care of automatically.

Yes to all of the above. You will need the exhaust manifold from a 10 or 12J normally aspirated diesel. Glencoyne Engineering has instructions on his website how to mate it up as the stud patterns are a little different. I would also recommend a 2" bore exhaust; I found a standard 2.25l petrol exhaust caused high temperatures on long hills. As for the flywheel housing to gear box bell housing, you can try the Series flywheel housing, but I know the 12J (2.5nad) housing fits the block and only needs one stud moving to mate to the SIII box. The Discovery housing will also fit, with a few studs added after their blind holes have been tapped out, but you still need to do something about the four bolts that go through the bottom of the Discovery bell housing and the flywheel housing into the ladder frame under the block. I recommend using socket head screws that secure against the surface of the flywheel housing, drilling holes for their heads in the bell housing flange. Received wisdom is to shoulder bore the flywheel housing to recess the heads, which is neat, but then you can't remove them to get the ladder frame off for crank shaft access without removing the gear box.

I hope so, but when you have judges stating their admiration for the bravery of burglars, it doesn't give much hope in the judiciary.

That's right, Boydie. I did this about 18-24 months ago.

I would use the modern Jerry can lockers and have a piece of aluminium tig welded or bonded into the hole left above - panel bond is almost as strong as welding and wouldn't cause heat distortion, so a body shop could do it quite cheaply if you're happy having double later strips inside to lap the joints. The most expensive part would be having them paint it. As for the size of that new locker, you could cut a hole in its base and add a lower floor, allowing the top of the bottle to be below the wheel arch instead of sticking up inside the vehicle.

Try a plumbers shop, electricians supply or hardware shop. They're not as unusual as you think. A friend rebuilt his 90 using domed stainless socket screws and nuts in place of the rivets and used white plastic washers to isolate them from the aluminium. It was a very smart job.

Back on the origin of this thread, it's interesting and disappointing the brand involved in this. Maverick has also had problems with his SS exhaust, rattles in a badly assembled muffler. The SS exhaust I had on my 109 fit fine, but the grade of stainless was carp - apart from the muffler, the whole thing rusted and looked really ugly; it was solid and serviceable, but not what I had expected.

Sadly it would. Some British OAPs have been prosecuted for burglars cutting themselves on razor wire on the top of fences (a regular victim of burglary) and for falling through skylights. What the hell is going through the minds of the legal aids and judges is beyond me. If you were to whack them, the best thing would be to silence the thief permanently and dispose of the body in a cunning fashion.

Before you start throwing money at accessories and mods, live with the car, give it a thorough service, find out what needs repairing and rectifying, and slowly determine how you're going to use it and what changes if any need doing to make it work better in that role - there is no point adding lighting to a day laner, a roof rack to a pay and play or trials vehicle, a soft suspension lift to an expedition vehicle and so on. Change what you need, seeking advice on those specific issues; don't be asking for ideas on what you can change, as you'll end up with an expensive mess.

In that case, I'd use that cargo rail along the floor edges as it gives great flexibility in moving the tie downs. If you are happy to spend more, running them along the top outer edge of the wheel arches would also be good. Stainless steel is even worse than mild steel for causing aluminium corrosion. Try to put a plastic barrier between the metals.

Where are you planning to put the load, and how big is the load? Ideally, the tie downs should be bolted through the wheel arch or floor with big washers. Try to use a thin but robust layer of plastic and some grease between the washers and aluminium to prevent electrolytic corrosion.

Do you mean by "trim" the body cappings, ie. the parts that used to be galvanised on early models? If so, I wouldn't use those interior slopes for tie downs - the cappings are only secured by rivets, and I don't think they'd take a lot of force to shear or pull through the aluminium.

Everything under the bonnet should fit, but you'd need the evaporator and a housing for inside the cab, and some pipes to make it join up. Make sure you get the thermostat housing elbow from the Discovery, as it has two switches that are missing from yours that activate the additional electric fans and cshut the aircon down if the engine starts getting too hot. It'd be worth getting as much of the wiring for that as you can, so help remove the system from the Discovery, tracing and marking up the wiring as you go.

In that case, I'd guess that it only applies to vehicle built in and since 2012. It'd be interesting to find the documents, though, just in case it is retrospective. That would make the use of all the decat/de-dpf pipes and EGR removal kits illegal, though perversely it doesn't make their retail illegal.

Petrol engines have catalytic converters. Diesels have Diesel Particulate Filters. So, a new regulation concerning catalytic converters specifically will not affect diesel vehicles. If it also specifies DPFs, or is a more generic exhaust and emissions control directive, then it would affect us. It'd be interesting to see the regulation, because retrospective tightening of rules is very unusual (for example, older vehicles don't have to be retrofit with seat belts, fog lamps, hazards or even indicators if they weren't mandatory on the year of original vehicle production).

Only a problem for customers who don't know the law - the Sales of Goods act means that your contract is with the vendor, and they have to give you a replacement immediately. Dealing with wholesalers and manufacturers is the vendor's problem, not the customer's.

Or just stick to proper, obsolete Rovers with leaf springs!

Yes, but you can get EP80/90, which is better as it still has the sulphur which protects the bearings and gear teeth, unlike 80w90.

Drawing attention is a big deterrent, like alarms and PIR flood lights. I'm not sure whether CCTV cameras work, as they can be covered and the thieves can wear hoods and masks. Next is making the car harder to shift, so that's where the various clamps and locks, immobilisers and such come in. If you can make the car a very unpleasant place to be at the same time, then so much the better, but think through the safety implications of a malfunction while driving; I had thought about a bright strobe to flash blind any thief, but having that go off in your face while on the motorway would be unhelpful. I won't disclose what I have done, but I think it'd convince a thief to leave the car alone. So, have a think about what you can do in a similar vein that won't cause a crash if it goes off accidentally while you're driving. Trackers are no deterrent - I would keep its installation secret in the hope any thief would not bother with a jammer or shielding/screening. But as the above story says, it's probably too late by then,

No I'm not, Steve. But it is a characteristic of the system rather than a design function. Likewise, the resistance in the glow plugs themselves increases as they warm up. But the point of the big resistor on the bulkhead is just to step down the battery voltage. The glow plugs shouldn't be needed for long enough to get that resistor really hot. Most starting issues on LR Diesels are fuel related, typically minor leaks that allow air into the system, which then allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. The system then needs purging on start up. My Tdis and my 12J never needed glow plugs, even in sub zero conditions, they'd start instantly first time every time from cold except when the leak off pipes between the injectors leaked. If you have starting issues, take a good look at the fuel system for tiny leaks. They're hard to find as they tend to let air in when static, but not let fuel out.