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Snagger

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Snagger

  1. It looks fairly significantly twisted clockwise (from above) relative to the chassis. I don’t think that is an illusion. It inferred it is a retrofit into a 200Tdi chassis, using the 200Tdi spec rear cross member. That would put the engine in a different longitudinal position to a standard 300 vehicle. Joe, I suspect most of your issues are from the cross member having different mountings to the 300 cross member. It’d be worth comparing and perhaps transferring the mounts. I would also double check the engine mountings on the chassis are fitted ont he correct sides, as they are probably asymmetric and that would cause this skew if fitted reversed.
  2. It’s still interesting, even if it doesn’t have the extreme mods that some of the guys on here are capable of. Looking at restorations, without mods at all, is still enthralling to me and many others - there are even many YouTube channels dedicated to lawn mowing, weeding and jet washing; seeing order return to entropy is cathartic. 🙂
  3. On myRRC, unlocking the doors would activate puddle lights and the interior lights on a timer, dimming down to nothing after short while of being on at normal brightness. Starting the ignition would instantly cut short the timer or dimmer and extinguish the circuit. I don’t know what circuits it had, but the alarm ECU was replaced with one from a D2.
  4. Those had an open and closed padlock on them when new, so just one for lock and one for unlock.
  5. It’s a pity, after all your impressive efforts, but at least you gave it a superhuman try. You’ll never sit there wondering if you spent more than you needed to and made a poor choice. Sometimes things are just too far gone, and you can’t tell until very late in the game.
  6. £££. Or you could just mount a cheaper lamp under the sill that doesn’t move in a way that the door blocks the light when open… Nice idea to link it to an extra fob button, though. I was looking at the central locking threads and some of the manufathay cropped up there. I was heading down the plan of getting the two button fobs because I won’t have an actuated boot lid, but your idea has made me rethink that and see that a three button fob is a much better idea, using the boot lid opening button for this. Nice idea - thanks!
  7. I just zoomed in more on the left end of the bottom pipe and saw it too has a banjo Union (so, a banjo at each end). That will make it the fuel filter to injection pump line. 100%, just like my now 100% certainty over the spill rail/return line following Simon’s photo.
  8. It’s because of price. The CCP massively subsidies all of their industries and uses slave labour and disregards what little environmental legislation exists to undercut everyone else, and our governments are stupid enough not to ban their imports. They also save on safety and R&D because IP theft is the norm for them.
  9. Can China make anything completely original?
  10. I am 95% confident that the top pipe is the spill line and return line that has been cut down for some reason and fitted with a length of rubber hose to reattach it to the injector spill line. The other pipe could be a transmission breather, though it looks to me like a cut pipe between lift pump and filter or filter and injection pump.
  11. AC vents rather than heater vents makes sense.
  12. That is peculiar. Have you tried keying the plastic surface, or even cleaning it with acetone to make sure it has not contaminates?
  13. I agree - standard colour wiring is easiest. The tags on ac are just white bands with black or grey numbers. The sub looms all connect with locking multi-pin plugs, so it’s the fabrication that is difficult, not the installation.
  14. Aircraft wiring looms, which are insanely complex and large, are all in white, but each wire is numbered with tags like John’s suggestion.
  15. The upper pipe is part of the 300Tdi injector leak off pipe - the hose on the right has been cut, but would have gone to the no4 injector banjo and then had the 3mm braided hose to the other three injector banjos. The left end would have run to the tank return line. The mid-length banjo was fitted to the back end of the injection pump. The lower line looks like it ran to the fuel filter, either from the lift pump or from filter to injection pump.
  16. The plenum should have a big rubber grommet in each demister tube hole. These have a neck about 1-1.5” long to locate and seal (ish) the bottom of the flexible hoses to the demister vent necks. I’m pretty sure that the Defender demister necks fit in the same way as the SIII in having the passenger side neck vertical but the driver side neck point towards the centre of the dash, as this makes space for the wiring and speedo cable and the end of the plenum is inboard of the demister mounting position. There weren’t any face level vents. Are you fitting a Puma dash?
  17. Well done. The pattern looks good, perhaps slightly into the valley on a couple of the convex side but the foreground and background teeth with a little less blue look like a nice contact, so I suspect the sharp cut off line on those middle teeth was down to a bit too much blue being applied. The concave side patterns look good. I feel your pain on how heavy it is. I did it laying under the vehicle on the driveway. At least the combination of MoD/1Ton suspension hangers and HD parabolics allowed clearance from the fuel tank!
  18. That is very kind, but I would want to reward such skills, time and kind offer anyway. It’ll be later in the year (I hope - still got to get a new job), but I’ll be in touch.🙂
  19. Thanks, @Peaklander. @Stellaghost, Stephen, I looked through that thread (hadn’t looked before because I know nothing about portals beyond basic principles). Wow. You’re nuts, but in a very, very good way! 😂. If you are willing to have a go at the pinion for me, then I dare say I could cross your palm with a little silver. I’ll try to check the ring gear for sensible fit first, and perhaps fit a bearing to the pinion head and make sure it all fits the casing without the second bearing first otherwise it could be a lot of wasted effort, but at least this all looks encouraging.
  20. It is surprising how stiff the bearings are once set up - I went back and double checked the figures on numerous sources when I did that Rover diff. Well done for getting so far! It is a bugger to get that much torque onto the pinion nut. I was a bit suspicious that the bar you used might not take it because of all the holes, but I didn’t expect that much of a bend. The general principle of pushing down on the breaker bar with an extension is going to be the easiest, though you are limited by your weight. A longer bar will still multiply that torque, though, if you end up dangling from the extension. You really want the bar on the flange to be horizontal, not vertical, onto a block. That way, its force from the pinion turning it will be straight down into the ground and the axle will be stable; if you have a diagonal or near vertical bar, the axle is going to want to walk across the workshop. You must be very pleased to have got this far.
  21. Living in the wrong country 4,500 miles from my cars and tools count? As a result, spending a small fortune on having someone fix one of them up for me. I do have a lot of plans for the 109, though, including fitting the 4.1 final drives and ATBs, some minor alterations to the switch gear on the dash, sorting out the lock barrels so they all match, central locking and an alarm, fitting the Garrison Outfitters seals I got from Ian to the sliding side windows, sorting a bloody annoying roof leak through the middle external rib, cleaning and lining the fuel tanks and getting to the bottom of whatever is causing the oil burn on the overrun and idling. Oh, and up-rating the alternator (maybe the 400a unit I got from Steve, but it might be a teensy bit overkill), moving the batteries, getting the fabric on the front seats re glued to the backing fabric, fitting seat rail lifters and replacing the H3 bulbs in the spot lights and rear work lamp with LEDs…. Maybe I should just concentrate on recommissioning it after 9 years of storage first. 🤔
  22. Not yet, but the diameter of the thick part of the pinion shaft is the same on my Dana as Tim’s Salisbury, so it looks like the inner bearing (against the pinion head) is the same. If it’s not, it’s close and should be easy to turn down a mite to fit the Sals spec bearing. As I said, the outer bearing near the drive flange is different, having a smaller internal diameter than on a Salisbury and sitting further apart than on the Salisbury too, hence the need for turning part of the rough section down to move the bearing closer and the filler collar to support the outer end of that bearing where it would sit over a 5mm section of the too small diameter turned section for the Dana bearing. If I do return to the UK this summer, as planned, then I’ll be having to rent until next January before I can move back into my house, so I won’t likely have the facilities to strip this thing down and test fit the pinion (maybe without the outer bearing) and the ring gear attached to my ATB for a basic check to see if the pinion reworking is worthwhile - I need to check that the Dana ring gear is going to fit first, otherwise the work on the pinion would be a waste. But if I do have the facilities, then maybe I could do it later this year.
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